Fuel line replacement

[wayconvict]

Hey guys,

I'm going to replace my fuel lines as they are quite flaky. I replaced my brake lines last year, but never put them in the space where they're supposed to go as fear of breaking my fuel lines....so will do that while I'm at it (but enough of my short story)

But someone told me to replace them with all rubber hose, this doesn't sound like a good idea to me (and will probably be more expensive), but I don't know if it's safe.

Also, found the following from a link off a another post, does this sound right? BTW will just be replacing the copper lines and fittings, so does anyone know what size fittings they are?

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The fuel supply and return lines on the 1989-93 Festiva w/MFI are both sized for 5/16" ID hose ( 8.0 mm ). The actual effective ID of the hard line is 5.7mm ( approximately 1/4" ), due to wall thickness of the metal tube.

he fuel tank vapor line is sized for 1/4" ID hose ( 6.5 mm ). The actual effective ID of the hard line is 4.8mm ( approximately 3/16" ), due to wall thickness of the metal tube.


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[tomlorch]

Do you have any pointers to replacing the fuel and brake lines? It appears that the main front center chassis support needs to be removed to get at the four lines as they go up to the proportioning valve from the chassis.

Thanks.
Tom

[eurotiva]

^welcome to the site Tom. Since that post was started in 2005, I'll reply. It is easiest to remove the crossmember to replace them. It's only 4 bolts to remove from the car. Then 2 bolts for the front trans mount and 1 for the rear trans mount. Just support the motor/trans while you work.

[tomlorch]

Thanks, Greg.
I've done a few things on the '91 since I purchased it in '91 (original owner!). But nothing as complex as replacing the brake lines. I'm looking for any links or tips on doing this. Should I replace the brake and gas lines at the same time, as well as the fifth (vapor?) line? What backyard mechanic device do you use to hold up the engine?
Thanks!
Tom

[Safety Guy]

Tom, I'm going to be replacing all my lines real soon. I'm removing the whole engine/transaxle as part of a big refurbish on my '91L (to be followed by my '93GL ATX soon after!).

Unfortunately, I don't have all the practice yet, so I was searching for this subject and how hard it is to replace everything at once. The only thing that appears obvious is that the more stuff you take off the car, the easier it is to get to the stock replacement pathways.

On the '91L I bought, someone DID run a rubber fuel return hose from the engine all the way back to the gas tank! They just ziptied it to the old hard line under the car!

I doubt that's safe.

It looks like I'll be taking the crossmember out after the running gear. As an improvement, I hope to install an '89 Tracer fuel filter mount up higher on the firewall so it's easier to get to (like on the Tracer).

I haven't looked yet at what kind of hard lines are used for fuel. I'll probably be buying a 25' roll of 3/16" double wall steel brake line for my job. I haven't looked into fittings and the flaring tool yet though.

Anyone else with any comments?

Karl

[Maxtiva]

Wow where is MONSOON ?

[lessersivad]

The double flaring tool I borrowed from a friend is Wilmar W80670. I liked it so much I bought myself one. It's this one:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WILMAR-W80670-DOUBLE-FLARE-TOOL-/250620254886

I didn't buy it from the net. I got mine thru the local auto parts store. The above listing is for illustration purposes only.

What I like about the flaring tool is you can do a "bubble barb" on the end of fuel lines also. I replaced all of the lines, (fuel and brake), on my '89 before I let my daughter drive it and being able to put the barb on the ends of the fuel lines made it nice.

The brake line couplers I used were Eaton/Weatherhead 7934A. Unfortunately I don't have the number for the nuts on the ends of the brake line. The size of the thread is 10mm x 1.0.

Hope this helps.

[Safety Guy]

Thanks Lesser!

I'll be checking on that tool. Did you use 3/16" steel brake line and did you buy a 25' roll or just long straight sections? I'm wondering if the "bentness" of a roll would make running brake line harder vs. straight sections.

Karl

[lessersivad]

On the Festiva I bought straight sections of line. Some I modified the length and used the flaring tool after the cut(s). On a friend's mid '90's F150 I bought a 25' roll of 3/16" and the "bentness" of the roll didn't really effect getting it to lay straight. I replaced the main line leading to the back and a couple of others. Made it a lot easier, IMHO, using the flaring tool and getting the lenths right vs. looping a line that may be too long or using imagineering trying to route the line(s).

I know it's obious but make sure to put the nuts on BEFORE doing the flare. I almost messed up a couple of times....LOL.