So the past month or so I've noticed my steering wheel start to get a little shake to it. I figure no big problem, tires are old and I have a new set sitting in the garage. Well, it keeps getting worse and the steering wheel is shaking really bad and its pulling hard to the right when I let go. Today it started shaking so bad that my turn signal came on! So I jacked it up and looked up under the front. Ball joints on both sides are toast. End links on both sides are toast. Drivers side CV axle boot is torn wide open. Control arm bushings are cracked and crappy looking. Basically everything that has to do with the front suspension or steering is toast. So now the fun begins. Should I just get the front end kit from Festiva Motorsport? I'll also have to get both CV's and struts also. Should my stock springs be ok? My main problem is that I don't have the money for it right now and this is my only car that's running. Are these parts that could break loose while driving? I have to go to work, but if the car is really unsafe I'm sure people would understand. Thanks!
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I would say the car is unsafe if it is as bad as you say. I got the kit from FMS and it was ok. I'd replace the drive axles from somewhere like Advance auto parts or Autozone. Are you having problems with your struts and springs? If not, I'd forego replacing them until money is better. However, if they are bad, too, then there really is no choice.http://www.cardomain.com/id/hawkdoc60
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Do not drive it till you've at least changed the control arms/ball joints!
I'm not being dramatic, had my ball joint fail on a tight turning on-ramp at 35 MPH.
The diver-side wheel turned 90° and slammed into the wheel well and at that point your done with being able to steer the car.
Simultaneously, the axle shaft was ripped from the tyranny.
Only good thing was I was going to change the tyranny fluid anyway!
Depending upon how many miles are on your fester.
The springs might still be good.
And you can drive with bad struts, though not recommended.
I too got the FMS kit, I would have rather have got the Moog control arms (lifetime warranty) but $140 for a pair is more than the FMS kit with shipping!
The FMS is a good value and will buy you probably 2-3 years. Also the FMS kit comes with anti-sway bar bushings but No pinch bolts so be-careful not to snap or loose them.
Also start now with the penatrant, BP blaster is your friend!
Remember these bolts haven't been removed in 15-20 years!
Be particulary liberal with it on the control arm bolt and hidden nut.
The axles will need to be replaced, but again you can go a long way on clicking axles, if your don't abuse them.
Might give some consideration to wrapping the flex joint with something to keep water out and grease in to buy your some time.
Something else to consider while your in there are your calipers, I change mine out every 100,000 miles along with the flex line between the caliper and hard line.
But your priority needs to be the control arms!
Any one in GA close to this guy and can give him a hand?
Better if you've done the control arm/anti-sway bar work before!'93 Blue 5spd 230K(down for clutch and overall maintanence)
'93 White B6 swap thanks to Skeeters Keeper
'92 Aqua parts Car
'93 Turquoise 5spd 137K
'90 White LX Thanks to FB71
"Your God of repentance will not save you.
Your holy ghost will not save you.
Your God plutonium will not save you.
In fact...
...You will not be saved!"
Prince of Darkness -1987
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^^ I totally agree with John, the control arms should be your main priority, i've had a couple break on me, luckily i was at slow speeds and neither time caused any damage to the car
1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
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1990 Festiva - First Ever Completed KLZE swap (SOLD)
If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?
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I would DEFINATELY help out if I was closer. Unfortunately I'm about 4 and a half hours away:-( I've done the work quite a few times on my two festivas, so it doesn't take me too long to get it done. Here's the kit on ebay: http://tinyurl.com/5dqwzj Hope you can get it taken care of soon, and like Pu241 says, start applying the PB Blaster now on all of the bolts and nuts that you are going to have to loosen. If your car has been a Georgia car all it's life it won't be as serious as a northern car that has been exposed to the salty roads, but to make your life easier just do the PB. Good luck, and be safe.90 Festiva with Brand new B3, 5spd
92 B6 Festiva, 5spd
94 Mustang DSS 331, Vortec S-Trim, 5 spd
94 Mustang GT, stock, automatic
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Yes listen to John , I had a very similar problem , It started as a shake , and then it went to trying to change lanes on it's own in a curve .
It was all worn out , I replaced both lower arms /joints , and both sway bar to control arm bushings and both axles , it drove like a new car again , except for the well used struts .
The PB Blaster , start using it several days before you are ready to take it apart , spray it several times a day , it will not hurt !------------------------------------------------
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Thanks for all the input! Now let's just hope it stays together for a little bit until I can get the money for parts. The Mustang is sitting in the garage with just longtubes on it right now, ha. Don't really wanna drive it 75 miles round trip everyday like that (plus all the gas it'll suck down, ha). All that gas money could go towards parts to fix the Festy! The Festiva Motorsport kit seems to be a really good deal. Just need money for it plus struts and all that. I'm not gonna put these new tires on and have them all messed up in a week, ha.
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Just get the kit ASAP!
You don't need the struts now anyway!
Originally posted by 88FestivaLXNow let's just hope it stays together for a little bit ...
DO NOT TAKE TURNS AT ANYTHING BUT THE MINIMUM SPEED!
Any turn could be your last turn.
I got lucky, no damage other than to my wallet because I had to have a tow off a 4 lane highway.
Good luck and be careful!
Also not to make life any more difficult, but are you sure the hubs are good?
Because bad front bearings will can chew-up a set of tires too!Last edited by Pu241; 09-15-2008, 08:28 PM.'93 Blue 5spd 230K(down for clutch and overall maintanence)
'93 White B6 swap thanks to Skeeters Keeper
'92 Aqua parts Car
'93 Turquoise 5spd 137K
'90 White LX Thanks to FB71
"Your God of repentance will not save you.
Your holy ghost will not save you.
Your God plutonium will not save you.
In fact...
...You will not be saved!"
Prince of Darkness -1987
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Where does the festiva have end links?
Also, change the inner tie rod ends and check the steering gear for play.
Once one component goes bad...it's not uncomon for the rest to bear the burden.
I would hate to see a near complete re-build and the original problem not be cured.Joe Lutz
The SKATE ..... 1992L 5spd
The Greatest Purchase I Ever Made
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Originally posted by jglutz View PostWhere does the festiva have end links?
Originally posted by jglutz View PostAlso, change the inner tie rod ends and check the steering gear for play.
Once one component goes bad...it's not uncomon for the rest to bear the burden.
I would hate to see a near complete re-build and the original problem not be cured.
But if he doesn't get the control arms/ball-joints replaced before they fail, he will likely be in for more repair than what he already knows about!
Just hate to see others make the same mistakes I have!'93 Blue 5spd 230K(down for clutch and overall maintanence)
'93 White B6 swap thanks to Skeeters Keeper
'92 Aqua parts Car
'93 Turquoise 5spd 137K
'90 White LX Thanks to FB71
"Your God of repentance will not save you.
Your holy ghost will not save you.
Your God plutonium will not save you.
In fact...
...You will not be saved!"
Prince of Darkness -1987
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Well, I got the Mustang together, so the Festy is sitting in the garage....Premium down here was $4.80 this morning, that sucked. I got $30 worth which wasn't even a half a tank to get me to work and back home, ha. 75 miles round trip in the Festy is no problem.....in the Mustang I'm gonna go bankrupt
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Just drive the stang like a human being, youll be fine for a lil bit.
I had the passenger side joint on my tbird give out on me doing about 15 mph. However the wheel somehow stayed on there for the 10 block drive home through town. THAT was scary. Extreme pucker factor. Wheel finally fell loading the car on the trailer...91GL BP/F3A with boost
13.79 @ 100, 2.2 60' on 8 psi and 155R12's
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