What's The Name Of This Sensor?

[spiko]

It's on the bottom of the radiator fan. I don't know the exact name of it, and everything I have seen at auto stores don't seem to match up. Can anyone help me identify this sensor?

[joebreck117]

can't see the pic...

Joe

[piratewilly]

It's on the bottom of the radiator fan. I don't know the exact name of it, and everything I have seen at auto stores don't seem to match up. Can anyone help me identify this sensor?

looks like a coolant temp sensor

[spiko]

can't see the pic...

Joe

Showing up fine for me. Are you at work?

[joebreck117]

nope I'm in my apartment....I reloaded the page a bunch of times....
I can't see the original or in the quote.

[worfdog]

If it's in the bottom of the radiator, it is a coolant temp sensor, only used on carbed cars. got mine at o'riellys, $21.00, a BWD part and made out of black plastic. had to modify the ends of my connectors. can't remember if i had to squeeze them together to make them tighter or open them up. part number is WT381 limited lifetime warranty.

By the way , i can't see the pic either.

[piratewilly]

nope I'm in my apartment....I reloaded the page a bunch of times....
I can't see the original or in the quote.

i couldn't see it either at first, i right clicked it and selected open image in new tab and it then showed up

[worfdog]

I can't even see anything to click on.

[piratewilly]

I can't even see anything to click on.

try now

[worfdog]

I can see it good now!!!!!

[spiko]

If it's in the bottom of the radiator, it is a coolant temp sensor, only used on carbed cars. got mine at o'riellys, $21.00, a BWD part and made out of black plastic. had to modify the ends of my connectors. can't remember if i had to squeeze them together to make them tighter or open them up. part number is WT381 limited lifetime warranty.

By the way , i can't see the pic either.

Thank you for the info, going to try to find one tomorrow!

[mhstark]

Radiator mis-information

It's on the bottom of the radiator fan. I don't know the exact name of it, and everything I have seen at auto stores don't seem to match up. Can anyone help me identify this sensor?

Spiko,
I have ask some smarter more experienced boys than myself your question...
Give it a day or two.
I have this Radiator mis-information on my HD add it to your knowledge bank if any of it is new to you.
Later Marv

1: The aluminum radiator is better.
The fact is, copper, brass, and lead all have better heat dissipation properties than aluminum. Many vehicles will get no benefit from the aluminum radiator. The weight reduction won't make any difference for a larger vehicle with a low-horsepower engine. The aluminum radiator is also more prone to acid corrosion and electrolysis damage. Use only approved coolants for the aluminum radiator. If you don’t the life is shortened DRASTICLY!
2: A small radiator leak, no big deal:
The small radiator leak may be an indicator of a larger problem. A cooling system that runs low too often is less efficient. Worse, you can damage the cooling system by letting the coolant level get too low. Don't ignore a radiator leak! Even a small one in your vehicle radiator can pose a problem.
3: Excess coolant flow is bad:
This long-held radiator myth dies hard. Too little coolant flow can be bad, but at normal and high operating temperatures, the rate at which coolant moves in the radiator does not change the amount of heat that is dissipated through the cooling fins. We all agree, the mean temperature of the coolant will rise if it flows faster, but the amount of cooling will not be reduced effectively.
4: Any old coolant will work fine the cheaper the better:
Cheap coolant look-a-likes do not have the same additives as name brand coolants. Many do not have the PH balancing, corrosion protection, or sediment prevention that the top-quality coolants posses. Be carefull ( the penny and the pound applies here).
5: Lower engine speed when overheating in traffic:
Actually, revving your engine slightly when you are overheating in traffic will help pushes more air across the cooling fins and pushes more coolant around the engine, helping your engine to be cooler.
6: One radiator cap is as good as another:
A poor radiator cap will not stay properly calibrated, and may open at too low or two high a pressure. Make sure yours is the proper cap for your cooling system.
7: Debris and bugs wreck your radiator:
Only if you have significant coverage of dead insects or debris will you be at risk of reduced the cooling ability. If there is significant accumulation of insects or debris covering 25% or more of your radiator, use a pressure washer or compressed air to clean it off.

[Fordverde]

That sensor is for the A/C cut off when the temp get too high. Its just another thermoswitch

[jglutz]

My spin

Spiko,
1: The aluminum radiator is better.
The fact is, copper, brass, and lead all have better heat dissipation properties than aluminum. Many vehicles will get no benefit from the aluminum radiator. The weight reduction won't make any difference for a larger vehicle with a low-horsepower engine. The aluminum radiator is also more prone to acid corrosion and electrolysis damage. Use only approved coolants for the aluminum radiator. If you don’t the life is shortened DRASTICLY!

This statement alone...neglects the structural integrity of aluminum and it's ability to be joined to the tanks...let alone its ability to take a shot from a flying stone.

Today, Aluminum cost a lot less than copper or brass. During the era that rad's were still made of brass....aluminum was considered and exotic metal.

Because of aluminum's electrolysis ability...it can be anodized. Anodized aluminum provides superior protection to any typical brass or copper plating process.

When selecting a heat transfer material...not only do engineers consider the coefficient of thermal conductivity...they...also consider the coefficient of thermal expansion. The minimal difference in thermal conductivity can be proprtional compensated by a minimal increase in surface area....very minimal.

Spiko,
3: Excess coolant flow is bad:
This long-held radiator myth dies hard. Too little coolant flow can be bad, but at normal and high operating temperatures, the rate at which coolant moves in the radiator does not change the amount of heat that is dissipated through the cooling fins. We all agree, the mean temperature of the coolant will rise if it flows faster, but the amount of cooling will not be reduced effectively.

Not so exact....for any given engine the radiator can be made smaller if the flow of coolant is increased; conversly, the flow can be decrease should the size of the radiator be increased. This does not even include the speed of the fan pulling air across the rad.

The equations are not difficult, a matter of fact they are pretty simple...however....the flow rate is only one part of the equation.

And flow rate is not the true concern....the real need is to maintain an optimum temp....hot enough to ease compression forces....and not to hot to limit heat from combustion.

5: Lower engine speed when overheating in traffic:
Actually, revving your engine slightly when you are overheating in traffic will help pushes more air across the cooling fins and pushes more coolant around the engine, helping your engine to be cooler.

The best thing to do is turn your engine off. The increase in RPM only works for fans that are not electrically operated. In any case their will be a sweet spot where the extra burned gas result in less heat.
Turning on the A/C to force the fan on only works if the fan temp sensor has already failed. The fan should have already been on. If I was over heating....I would look to shed loads...not increase them.

Not a rant or fight...just my expeience....hate to see any car suffer form an overheating problem.

[spiko]

Thanks for the extra information!

I think this one should last me a good while, if not, I always have a spare