It's on the bottom of the radiator fan. I don't know the exact name of it, and everything I have seen at auto stores don't seem to match up. Can anyone help me identify this sensor?
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Originally posted by spiko View PostIt's on the bottom of the radiator fan. I don't know the exact name of it, and everything I have seen at auto stores don't seem to match up. Can anyone help me identify this sensor?
(GONE)88 Festiva LX 5 Speed, Factory A/C, Factory Tow Hitch, Tach.
95k Original miles
New: Tires, Axels, Front Wheel Bearings, Fuel Pump, Valve Cover Gasket, Carb Rebuild, Timing Set, Belts, Shoes, Distributor, CapRotor, Wires, Plugs, Coil, Grant 11" Steering Wheel, 3700 Watt Stereo System-6 1/2 Infinity speakers, Infinity tweeters, Almani 12" subs
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nope I'm in my apartment....I reloaded the page a bunch of times....
I can't see the original or in the quote.Joey Richard Jr.
1991 Ford Festiva L; died but donated all her organs
1988 Ford Festiva LX; EFI swapped in...actually everything swapped in
Quality is Job 1. Together, We Can Save Lives. Ford.
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If it's in the bottom of the radiator, it is a coolant temp sensor, only used on carbed cars. got mine at o'riellys, $21.00, a BWD part and made out of black plastic. had to modify the ends of my connectors. can't remember if i had to squeeze them together to make them tighter or open them up. part number is WT381 limited lifetime warranty.
By the way , i can't see the pic either.1960 willys pickup
1967 jeep cj5
1988 festiva
1989 festiva
1990 festiva for parts
1991 s-10
"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote!" —Benjamin Franklin, 1759
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Originally posted by joebreck117 View Postnope I'm in my apartment....I reloaded the page a bunch of times....
I can't see the original or in the quote.(GONE)88 Festiva LX 5 Speed, Factory A/C, Factory Tow Hitch, Tach.
95k Original miles
New: Tires, Axels, Front Wheel Bearings, Fuel Pump, Valve Cover Gasket, Carb Rebuild, Timing Set, Belts, Shoes, Distributor, CapRotor, Wires, Plugs, Coil, Grant 11" Steering Wheel, 3700 Watt Stereo System-6 1/2 Infinity speakers, Infinity tweeters, Almani 12" subs
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I can't even see anything to click on.1960 willys pickup
1967 jeep cj5
1988 festiva
1989 festiva
1990 festiva for parts
1991 s-10
"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote!" —Benjamin Franklin, 1759
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(GONE)88 Festiva LX 5 Speed, Factory A/C, Factory Tow Hitch, Tach.
95k Original miles
New: Tires, Axels, Front Wheel Bearings, Fuel Pump, Valve Cover Gasket, Carb Rebuild, Timing Set, Belts, Shoes, Distributor, CapRotor, Wires, Plugs, Coil, Grant 11" Steering Wheel, 3700 Watt Stereo System-6 1/2 Infinity speakers, Infinity tweeters, Almani 12" subs
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I can see it good now!!!!!1960 willys pickup
1967 jeep cj5
1988 festiva
1989 festiva
1990 festiva for parts
1991 s-10
"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote!" —Benjamin Franklin, 1759
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Originally posted by worfdog View PostIf it's in the bottom of the radiator, it is a coolant temp sensor, only used on carbed cars. got mine at o'riellys, $21.00, a BWD part and made out of black plastic. had to modify the ends of my connectors. can't remember if i had to squeeze them together to make them tighter or open them up. part number is WT381 limited lifetime warranty.
By the way , i can't see the pic either.
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Radiator mis-information
Originally posted by spiko View PostIt's on the bottom of the radiator fan. I don't know the exact name of it, and everything I have seen at auto stores don't seem to match up. Can anyone help me identify this sensor?
I have ask some smarter more experienced boys than myself your question...
Give it a day or two.
I have this Radiator mis-information on my HD add it to your knowledge bank if any of it is new to you.
Later Marv
1: The aluminum radiator is better.
The fact is, copper, brass, and lead all have better heat dissipation properties than aluminum. Many vehicles will get no benefit from the aluminum radiator. The weight reduction won't make any difference for a larger vehicle with a low-horsepower engine. The aluminum radiator is also more prone to acid corrosion and electrolysis damage. Use only approved coolants for the aluminum radiator. If you don’t the life is shortened DRASTICLY!
2: A small radiator leak, no big deal:
The small radiator leak may be an indicator of a larger problem. A cooling system that runs low too often is less efficient. Worse, you can damage the cooling system by letting the coolant level get too low. Don't ignore a radiator leak! Even a small one in your vehicle radiator can pose a problem.
3: Excess coolant flow is bad:
This long-held radiator myth dies hard. Too little coolant flow can be bad, but at normal and high operating temperatures, the rate at which coolant moves in the radiator does not change the amount of heat that is dissipated through the cooling fins. We all agree, the mean temperature of the coolant will rise if it flows faster, but the amount of cooling will not be reduced effectively.
4: Any old coolant will work fine the cheaper the better:
Cheap coolant look-a-likes do not have the same additives as name brand coolants. Many do not have the PH balancing, corrosion protection, or sediment prevention that the top-quality coolants posses. Be carefull ( the penny and the pound applies here).
5: Lower engine speed when overheating in traffic:
Actually, revving your engine slightly when you are overheating in traffic will help pushes more air across the cooling fins and pushes more coolant around the engine, helping your engine to be cooler.
6: One radiator cap is as good as another:
A poor radiator cap will not stay properly calibrated, and may open at too low or two high a pressure. Make sure yours is the proper cap for your cooling system.
7: Debris and bugs wreck your radiator:
Only if you have significant coverage of dead insects or debris will you be at risk of reduced the cooling ability. If there is significant accumulation of insects or debris covering 25% or more of your radiator, use a pressure washer or compressed air to clean it off.
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My spin
Originally posted by mhstark View PostSpiko,
1: The aluminum radiator is better.
The fact is, copper, brass, and lead all have better heat dissipation properties than aluminum. Many vehicles will get no benefit from the aluminum radiator. The weight reduction won't make any difference for a larger vehicle with a low-horsepower engine. The aluminum radiator is also more prone to acid corrosion and electrolysis damage. Use only approved coolants for the aluminum radiator. If you don’t the life is shortened DRASTICLY!
Today, Aluminum cost a lot less than copper or brass. During the era that rad's were still made of brass....aluminum was considered and exotic metal.
Because of aluminum's electrolysis ability...it can be anodized. Anodized aluminum provides superior protection to any typical brass or copper plating process.
When selecting a heat transfer material...not only do engineers consider the coefficient of thermal conductivity...they...also consider the coefficient of thermal expansion. The minimal difference in thermal conductivity can be proprtional compensated by a minimal increase in surface area....very minimal.
Originally posted by mhstark View PostSpiko,
3: Excess coolant flow is bad:
This long-held radiator myth dies hard. Too little coolant flow can be bad, but at normal and high operating temperatures, the rate at which coolant moves in the radiator does not change the amount of heat that is dissipated through the cooling fins. We all agree, the mean temperature of the coolant will rise if it flows faster, but the amount of cooling will not be reduced effectively.
The equations are not difficult, a matter of fact they are pretty simple...however....the flow rate is only one part of the equation.
And flow rate is not the true concern....the real need is to maintain an optimum temp....hot enough to ease compression forces....and not to hot to limit heat from combustion.
Originally posted by mhstark View Post5: Lower engine speed when overheating in traffic:
Actually, revving your engine slightly when you are overheating in traffic will help pushes more air across the cooling fins and pushes more coolant around the engine, helping your engine to be cooler.
Turning on the A/C to force the fan on only works if the fan temp sensor has already failed. The fan should have already been on. If I was over heating....I would look to shed loads...not increase them.
Not a rant or fight...just my expeience....hate to see any car suffer form an overheating problem.Last edited by jglutz; 09-23-2008, 11:48 AM.Joe Lutz
The SKATE ..... 1992L 5spd
The Greatest Purchase I Ever Made
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