What's The Name Of This Sensor?

[bravekozak]

switch

I believe this is the part number you are looking for:

http://www.bwbronze.com/festiva/switch.jpg

[mhstark]

It's on the bottom of the radiator fan. I don't know the exact name of it, and everything I have seen at auto stores don't seem to match up. Can anyone help me identify this sensor?

Spiko,
Seem 3 out of 4 I ask agreed:

It is unused sensor location. Sensors located at the bottom of the radiator can be used to cycle cooling fans, control temp gauges, disengage a/c compressors, engage a warning light or send information to the computer.
Marv

[mhstark]

more info

Joe,
Not a problem, no offence taken, all points seem more in depth than I was looking. We all know more now than we did yesterday, and that is the goal of a forum.
Nice spin and nicely put.
Marv

My spin


This statement alone...neglects the structural integrity of aluminum and it's ability to be joined to the tanks...let alone its ability to take a shot from a flying stone.

Today, Aluminum cost a lot less than copper or brass. During the era that rad's were still made of brass....aluminum was considered and exotic metal.

Because of aluminum's electrolysis ability...it can be anodized. Anodized aluminum provides superior protection to any typical brass or copper plating process.

When selecting a heat transfer material...not only do engineers consider the coefficient of thermal conductivity...they...also consider the coefficient of thermal expansion. The minimal difference in thermal conductivity can be proprtional compensated by a minimal increase in surface area....very minimal.




Not so exact....for any given engine the radiator can be made smaller if the flow of coolant is increased; conversly, the flow can be decrease should the size of the radiator be increased. This does not even include the speed of the fan pulling air across the rad.

The equations are not difficult, a matter of fact they are pretty simple...however....the flow rate is only one part of the equation.

And flow rate is not the true concern....the real need is to maintain an optimum temp....hot enough to ease compression forces....and not to hot to limit heat from combustion.


The best thing to do is turn your engine off. The increase in RPM only works for fans that are not electrically operated. In any case their will be a sweet spot where the extra burned gas result in less heat.
Turning on the A/C to force the fan on only works if the fan temp sensor has already failed. The fan should have already been on. If I was over heating....I would look to shed loads...not increase them.

Not a rant or fight...just my expeience....hate to see any car suffer form an overheating problem.

[bravekozak]

steel transfer tubes

When I had my old brass reservoir rad rebuilt, I asked for brass transfer tubes to be soldered in.
The guy at the shop just laughed at me. Apparently, they only use steel transfer tubes because of an existing patent. This way, they rust out so that the rad will leak again, and you will have to bring it in again for a rebuild (with more steel transfer tubes). It's the same with all radiators, with plastic reservoirs or other.

[worfdog]

Looked in my book and the sensor in the bottom of the radiator signals the, Electronic Control Assembly when the water temp reaches 62.3 degrees, for what reason i don't know, the manual does not say.


I know they will run with out fine because my 89 5-speed does not have one. The previous owner put an auto radiator from a 1990 FI car and the FI car did not have them in the radiator.

[spiko]

I checked the other radiator and the switch looked fine so I'm just using that

[25Horseplay]

I checked the other radiator and the switch looked fine so I'm just using that

I'm glad you checked the other one!

[mhstark]

When I had my old brass reservoir rad rebuilt, I asked for brass transfer tubes to be soldered in.
The guy at the shop just laughed at me. Apparently, they only use steel transfer tubes because of an existing patent. This way, they rust out so that the rad will leak again, and you will have to bring it in again for a rebuild (with more steel transfer tubes). It's the same with all radiators, with plastic reservoirs or other.

Good Information:
It sound like they have their own twist on job security running strong. So many time its all about profit.... not the best suited repair possible. Also many times we the consumer set the stage by demanding the lowest possible price.
So many factors come into play in the repair services. It's nice to be able to pick and choose a little, if possible. This forum help inform us so we can make better choices. ALL INPUT is IMPORTANT for us to making and informed decision. The con is just as important as the pro in decision making.
Marv

[mhstark]

Looked in my book and the sensor in the bottom of the radiator signals the, Electronic Control Assembly when the water temp reaches 62.3 degrees, for what reason i don't know, the manual does not say.


I know they will run with out fine because my 89 5-speed does not have one. The previous owner put an auto radiator from a 1990 FI car and the FI car did not have them in the radiator.

Was the 62.3 F or 62.3C Most likely C seems about right to kick on a fan.
Does make one ask what all does the electronic control Assembly control. Several things maybe [R cooling fan, AC compressor, temp gauge ]
Njoy Ur 89
Thanks
Marv

[mhstark]

Tow Hitch

try now

Piratewilly,
Do you have a snap of your factory tow hitch on the 88
Thanks
Marv

[spiko]

I'm glad you checked the other one!

Well "we" checked the other one, I just remembered that we had two radiators and there might have been a chance the other sensor would have been good. Lucky for us, it was!

[worfdog]

Was the 62.3 F or 62.3C Most likely C seems about right to kick on a fan.
Does make one ask what all does the electronic control Assembly control. Several things maybe [R cooling fan, AC compressor, temp gauge ]
Njoy Ur 89
Thanks
Marv

Made a small mistake it's not 62.3, but 62.6 F. It is Fahrenheit by the manual i have.