Fuel Injection Cleaner & then....

[BigWheel]

Got my car back today from the shop having a new head installed. Noticed a slight (very slight dying off then back up again) idle problem on the way home. In addition to the new head I've done a complete tune up and ready to put in fuel injection cleaner. So filled up with gas, dropped cleaner in and now she's reving like she's on speed. My guess is that the car (208k miles) has never had the injection system cleaned. Could simply adding cleaner cause the car to rev uncontrollably?

[FestYboy]

at idle? or while driving (acceleration)?

[BigWheel]

at idle? or while driving (acceleration)?

While cold it idles fine. Once warm it revs very high whether I'm sitting at a traffic light OR between gears (going from 1st to 2nd and so on). Every now and then it settles back down but then right back up in a few minutes. Strange. It didn't start doing this until I put the fuel additive in.

[Justin]

While cold it idles fine. Once warm it revs very high whether I'm sitting at a traffic light OR between gears (going from 1st to 2nd and so on). Every now and then it settles back down but then right back up in a few minutes. Strange. It didn't start doing this until I put the fuel additive in.

Just Burn That Cleaner out of Your Gas Tank & see if Your car Still Reacts the Same as You Described to see if thats the Problem.

[FestYboy]

did you clean out the intake prior to re-installing? i'm thinking some debris worked itself loose and your IAC can't keep up or is stuck open. also check for any vac leaks from loose hoses.

[BigWheel]

Intake was cleaned out but it was a good thought. Now the car, when cold, idles too low and car dies. When warm it's racing. I'm hoping to learn something by trying to figure out why the check eng light is coming on when cold. I've been reading the Haynes manual and on page 6-6 it reads, "It is possible to read the trouble codes from the check engine light (if you don't have a voltmeter...which I don't) from the dash. Simply ground the STI and GND terminals with a jumper wire." I'm hoping this will give me some clue what might be going on BUT I have no idea where these terminals are on a 93GL and the book doesn't give many any idea. It only address carbed and post 94 models. Anybody know where these terminals are and how I can identify them?

[Justin]

Intake was cleaned out but it was a good thought. Now the car, when cold, idles too low and car dies. When warm it's racing. I'm hoping to learn something by trying to figure out why the check eng light is coming on when cold. I've been reading the Haynes manual and on page 6-6 it reads, "It is possible to read the trouble codes from the check engine light (if you don't have a voltmeter...which I don't) from the dash. Simply ground the STI and GND terminals with a jumper wire." I'm hoping this will give me some clue what might be going on BUT I have no idea where these terminals are on a 93GL and the book doesn't give many any idea. It only address carbed and post 94 models. Anybody know where these terminals are and how I can identify them?

I think they are the Ones against the Firewall by your Windshield Wiper Motor

[FestYboy]

yup

[jglutz]

Sounds like the timing belt is off by one tooth and the shop swung the distributor to one side in order to compensate. Very commonn problem with a festy head change.

Locate the two bolts that hold the dist to the head. One is at the ±11 o'clock position and the other as at ±5 o'clock position. Under the head of the top bolt (11 o;clock) you will notice a slot under the head of the bolt. The slot should be approximately centered under the bolt. Not to the CW or CCW extreme.

[BigWheel]

Sounds like the timing belt is off by one tooth and the shop swung the distributor to one side in order to compensate. Very commonn problem with a festy head change.

Locate the two bolts that hold the dist to the head. One is at the ±11 o'clock position and the other as at ±5 o'clock position. Under the head of the top bolt (11 o;clock) you will notice a slot under the head of the bolt. The slot should be approximately centered under the bolt. Not to the CW or CCW extreme.

Is this as simple as it sounds? I checked the distributor briefly and the bolt is to the far left of the slot (adjuster slot). Are you saying that all I need to do is loosen that bolt, move the distributor until the bolt is in the center of the slot, tighten and this should work? I'm such a novice at this but if this is that simple, and it works, you will make my week. What is CW and CCW?

[jglutz]

NO.
The dist bolt should be in the middle of the slot....not exact...but pretty close.

The timming belt needs to be moved one tooth on the head in the direction opposite that the dist has been turned.

Before the shop turned the dist so far they should have assumed such because either the car would not start or it idled poorly. Whenever a timing belt is changed on any running car....the base timming should require very slight or no adjustment.

For any mechanic (pro or home) familiar with a festy...this is about a 1/2 hour job.

[BigWheel]

Well...dang!!! I guess another trip to the shop because this is over my head. My mechanical knowledge is very basic. Thanks

[Ogrestiva]

I'm not sure about your other problems, but CW=Clock Wise CCW=Counter Clock Wise. It sounds like its just a simple adjustment. You should try and see if there is another festy fan on the site close by you and see if he/she can help you out.

[BigWheel]

CW=Clock Wise CCW=Counter Clock Wise

Duh...now that's funny. I'm so frustrated with this dang thing I can't think straight. My knowledge level is so limited that I don't trust myself to try some of these things for fear of doing more damage. Unfortunately nobody else in the area that's familiar with these cars that I'm aware of.

[BigWheel]

It wasn't a timing problem. After trying several different things we finally settled on a bad TPS. We made some minor adjustments that has the ole girl running until I can find a TPS.