Ohh I almost forgot... You are going to need to take off your tie-rod ends though so unless you are already planning on getting an alignment I'd suggest keeping lube on it and whatever is left on the rack of the boot until then... Just my .02. -Kyle
Cosmic Blue 2008 Mazdaspeed 3 - Mostly Stock...
White 1990 Ford Festiva - B6 SOHC powered 50 shot = 14.5 @ 94 mph Gone but not forgotten
The car is totally apart and I am doing the asipre swap so the tie rods will be off. The rack is one of the 1st things that is going back on the car. I'll check with FMS for them, I will be ordering my struts and springs next week from them.
even if you did have to pull off the tie rod (for reference) you wouldnt have to take it to get aligned. the only thing you need to adjust in the tow. to do that jack the car up spin the wheels and spray paint them and take a jack stand or somthing to rest a screw driver on. then scrape a line in the paint. let the car down jounce it a few times. then measure the front and measure the back. the back should a be a tad bit wider (when the car is moving the wheels tend to move outward so a tad bit of toe in should make them strait when moving) depending on specs. adjust as needed. thats how shops do it but just on a rack. new racks may have some fancy thing thing that does it on the computer but the one i was tought on didnt read tow just caster and camber. o yea and somewhere along the lines you have to center hte steering wheel unless you dont car about your steering wheel being strait. that drives me nuts...
I found a universal repair boot from motormite p/n 03670 and it worked great. $9 a piece. It has multiple diameters at each end, just trimmed one end and slipped it on. Here is a link to the boot: http://www.motormitedormancatalog.co...otormitedorman
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