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  • #16
    ALSO, with the slightly higher idle speed, it does diesel when I shut it off, just for a second.

    Is this another clue?
    If it has boobs or wheels, sooner or later you're going to have trouble with it.
    Mark S.

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    • #17
      I don't have any experence with Carbed Fastivas, but it has been my experence that in cold weather, after you have done the "press the Accelerator to the Floor before trying to start and release" also known as "setting the Choke" the Choke should be completely closed...if it is not that may be the problem.....unless Festivas are different...lol

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      • #18
        Run-on(dieseling) is very rough on engines; my first automotive teacher told me. He said it's like putting a 1000 miles on the car every time it happens(or maybe he said 100), I remember this because I had a cutlass supreme at the time that was constantly dieseling. I believe, but could be wrong there is an adjustment(dashpot?) or something for this, I'm not sure.....can't remember how it was fixed or even if I did fix it ever. I still got the car sitting in a garage up north...first new car my parents ever bought, 1979 I think. White Cutlass Supreme with T-tops. Anyway, most common causes of dieseling are carbon deposits, low-octane fuel, overheated engine, plugs having too high a heat range OR POSSIBLY, now pay attention>>>>high idle speed.

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        • #19
          If it's not fuel then it's likely spark. Condensation may be the problem in cold weather.I'd try wiping the ignition wires and rotor cap with a clean rag. Someone wrote in this forum he sprays the wires with WD-40 (Water Dispersant 40) which should also cure a condensation problem.
          Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

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          • #20
            FIXED!
            Just to let everyone know,,, I got it fixed yesterday. I lubricated the choke plate like crazy, but that didn't seem to help. Then I found it: the linkage right near the throttle lever and under the electric choke was just not wanting to move. The only thing that I could surmise was that the leaking fuel pump and hose was lightly spraying the linkage with gasoline over the last few weeks, which removed any lubrication, causing it to bind. Not sure if that's actually what happened but it's my best guess.
            I lubricated it, and not only did the idle speed return to normal but it now starts on the first try, with one pump of the gas pedal.

            I gave it an oil and filter change today since it deserved it.
            Thanks everyone for your help! I love this place!!
            If it has boobs or wheels, sooner or later you're going to have trouble with it.
            Mark S.

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            • #21
              another update, it's not really fixed. The choke is working (closing) when I give the gas pedal a pump, but it looks like it's closing all the way, instead of a small gap. I guess I have to adjust the choke, but the service manual doesn't make it clear how to do it. This morning (it's about 55 outside) it will not start. Smells like it's flooded. Very frustrating, because I can't get to work,,,,,I can't keep calling off work!!

              If anyone is still reading this thread,, would appreciate more help.
              If it has boobs or wheels, sooner or later you're going to have trouble with it.
              Mark S.

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              • #22
                both of my 88's only close approx 90 % when i set the choke. i just checked my wrangler and it also does the same. i own 3 other carbed cars but they all have no choke carbs....stupid racecars lol
                88 mustang 427 stroker garrett t-76 turbo best run 8.86@ 151.56



                91 red gl festiva the $50 daily driver <--toast
                WANTED 78-80 FORD FIESTA (PREF GHIA)

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