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Well, I'm still trying to get the old one out. There's some sort of sensor at the bottom of the radiator with 2 wires going to it. Is that something for the A/C? I don't see a spot for it on my new radiator. Am I completely screwed?
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my situation was opposite of yours, i had a stock radiator without that switch and wiring and my new radiator had it.. it is unplugged now. Carbed cars have it, FI ones don't.
check out this thread:
-"Hairlipstiva" 1991 GL 5spd (swapped from an auto), rolling on Enkei 14x6 +38 with 195/45/14 Toyo's, Jensen MP5720 CD deck, tach install, LED strip in cluster, down position rear wiper, FMS springs, Gabriel shocks on 4 corners, Acura Integra short shifter
-Escort GT 91 donor car with BP, G5M-R tranny to be dropped in the little guy...
-Aspire brake swap COMPLETE!
https://www.wunderground.com/persona...?ID=KOKOWASS38 -
So since my car has A/C do I need to figure this out?
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someone else will have to chime in, i don't know.
-"Hairlipstiva" 1991 GL 5spd (swapped from an auto), rolling on Enkei 14x6 +38 with 195/45/14 Toyo's, Jensen MP5720 CD deck, tach install, LED strip in cluster, down position rear wiper, FMS springs, Gabriel shocks on 4 corners, Acura Integra short shifter
-Escort GT 91 donor car with BP, G5M-R tranny to be dropped in the little guy...
-Aspire brake swap COMPLETE!
https://www.wunderground.com/persona...?ID=KOKOWASS38Comment
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will the plug thing not just screw out? it looks like its threaded. if you can't get it out from the bottom, you could just cut the wires, get the rad out, and then splice them back when you get done. i'll look in the ford manual and see if i can figure out what the thing does. its gotta be in there somewhere.89 L, hopefully returning from the dead soon with a little more power... :twisted:
http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...77-my-89-build
92 integra, daily driver, broke a clutch disc, sold
New dd, 02 Nissan sentra, 1.8 5 spdComment
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It looks like it screws out, but I don't know what to do with it once the new radiator is in.
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It will screw out.If yours is like mine the wire connectors are corroded and will not come loose. Best, in my opinion is to cut the wires or you will damage the switch. THE switch has nothing to do with the air conditioner. It is a radiator temp. sensor. My 1989 Festiva has air and the sensor is not connected and the car runs as good as my 1988 which has no air and the sensor is connected. From what I can tell, the sensor may send a signal to the ECU for some reason, maybe for some emmision control.1960 willys pickup
1967 jeep cj5
1988 festiva
1989 festiva
1990 festiva for parts
1991 s-10
"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote!" —Benjamin Franklin, 1759Comment
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Well, I guess its not going back in, ha.....besides, since its the radiator temp sensor, it wasn't doing its job b/c the radiator cracked, ha
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you need that switch. It's not "just for emissions..." It's the Coolant Temperature Switch, and tells the ECM when to reduce the idle speed, after the engine approaches operating temp. Without it, the engine will either idle rich all the time, or be hard to keep running when it's cold (less than 70degF), depending on wether or not the wires are left open or shorted together.Jim DeAngelis
kittens give Morbo gas!!
Bright Blue 93 GL (1.6 8v, 5spd) (Hula-Baloo)
Performance Red 94 Aspire SE (Stimpson)Comment
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Thanks Jim, I have noticed that the 1989 does idle very low till it warms up.1960 willys pickup
1967 jeep cj5
1988 festiva
1989 festiva
1990 festiva for parts
1991 s-10
"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote!" —Benjamin Franklin, 1759Comment
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Hmmm, so what should be done?
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Rock Auto has the part listed as a Water Thermo Switch.....I really need to figure this out. All of the radiators I find don't have a spot for it.
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Originally posted by FB71 View Post
VERY interesting... My 88 has the switch, but the connector is busted an there for the switch is not hooked up. BUT my car warms up and then the idle kicks down, just like any other electric choke carb.
Are we sure that is what this switch does?Previous owner of a '89 Graphite L, 4spd, GL Seats, Aspire Brakes, 14x6's, 185/60/14'sComment
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Originally posted by jasonpaulbauer View Post
I guess I need to clarify that statement. It doesn't control cold idle kickdown to curb idle, that's handled by the choke stove (heater) and the ECT (Engine Coolant Temp sensor, separate from the CTS). This switch tells the ECA to turn on or off airbleeds (the ABCV stepper motor) to provide additional enrichment during cold engine operation. If left in one state, the engine will always be rich, gradually loading your catalytic converter (which gradually leads to failure), increasing your exhaust emissions and reducing your fuel economy a bit. If left in the other state, the engine will be lean during cold operation, potentially causing driveability issues, including a low idle speed.
The difference in idle speed I'm refering to is maybe only 150rpm.
88FestivaLX, I would just epoxy the switch to the outside of the bottom tank. It'll take the switch a bit longer to warm up, but you shouldn't notice any real issues, especially in GA. The worst that will happen for you is that runs a bit rich for a few minutes after it warms up.Last edited by FB71; 01-28-2009, 02:48 PM.Jim DeAngelis
kittens give Morbo gas!!
Bright Blue 93 GL (1.6 8v, 5spd) (Hula-Baloo)
Performance Red 94 Aspire SE (Stimpson)Comment
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Thanks for the clarification..... I know mine needs to be fixed, but when you first explained it, it sounded as if mine was working.Previous owner of a '89 Graphite L, 4spd, GL Seats, Aspire Brakes, 14x6's, 185/60/14'sComment
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