car may be dead-not starting

[deathegg]

Well, more problems with the car not starting (88 L+, carb).
It has been starting, but sometimes requires a bit more cranking than usual, or another press of the gas pedal.

yesterday it did start, so I had many errands to run. I stopped at 7 places, and when I went to start it, it started right up each time. EXCEPT for the last stop. I was in the place for about 1 1/2 hours, and came back out and did not start. (each day I stop at this place, and it sits for that long, and always starts right back up because the engine is warmed up).

I had to get AAA to tow me home.

So, what the heck? I looked at it today, and tried to start it....nothing. I looked at the choke, it seems to be working correctly. I can see gas squirt in when I press on the accelerator pump, so it's getting gas it seems. It has a new fuel pump. I thought that maybe the battery is not putting out enough juice, so I used a friends car to jump it,,, and the engine cranked faster, but still did not start.

The thing is,,, it always (up to now!) started when it was warmed up. Yesterday it did not.
what could this be that suddenly acts up like this?

Also, does anyone in SoCal have a festiva for sale??

[jglutz]

1-1/2 hour stop each day at the same spot....you girlfriend must be a real sport!

[Pu241]

Have you checked your coil?
Even a non-functioning choke wouldn't keep it from starting it would just run badly till it warmed up, or might take more than a few starts to get it going but it would start!
I'm thinking something electrical.
Reverend Jim we beseech you in your infinite mercy and wisdom please give us your guidance!:notworthy:

[deathegg]

No have not checked coil,,, how is that done? It's an old one, so it may be easier to just get a new one and get it over with.

I put the new spark plugs in today,, the old ones were worn but "normal" looking in terms of the wear. Looks like the engine has been running well. However new plugs did not make it start.

What gets me is that up until yesterday it was ok and started when warm; why suddenly it is dead?

[Pu241]

Electronic are like that!
But to be fair you have had an intermittent issue for sometime it just hasn't stopped you, till now!
Need a multimeter for check primary and secondary resistance on the coil.
I hate to spend money just replacing parts need to diagnose then replace.
Must cheaper and more effective.
I have called upon the Ford God, so perhaps he will intervene on your behalf soon.

[deathegg]

Also I have seen that the ignition control module will sometimes slowly go bad, then quit altogether?

[FB71]

I have heard your pleas, Apostle John, and shall impart my divine wisdom...

ok, Deathegg, I need to know what tools you have available. Do you have a 12v test light, and/or a multimeter (digital or analog)? I can better guide your tests knowing what tools you have.

A quick check using only a phillips screwdriver;
disconnect the coil wire from the distributor cap. Insert the tip of the screwdriver into the open end of the coil wire. Place the shank of the screwdriver very, very close to a ground (strut tower, cylinder head, etc -not valve cover, not a good ground), within 1/8 inch. While holding it there (by the insulated handle), have a helper crank the engine. You should see a rapidly pulsing blue/white spark. If the spark is weak and orange colored, you have a weak coil. If there is no spark, then the most likely candidates are a bad coil or bad ignition module (inside the distributor). Checking those are best done with the above tools.

[deathegg]

Jim,
Thanks for the tips. Here's what I just did:
I tested for a spark at the spark plug; I got one of my old plugs, put the wire on it and held it near a ground. No spark at the plug.

Keep in mind the engine is cranking slower than normal due to trying to start it, but still cranks good.

Next, I tested the coil wire per your suggestion. I used the strut tower for the ground.
No spark at all. ( and it's 7:00pm here, dark enough to see a weak spark if there was one)

Unfortunately I do not have any testing equipment, not even a test light.

[FB71]

ok, go to a McParts (Advance, Checkers, Pep Boys, etc) or SprawlMarx (WalMart) and buy yourself a cheapo test light (under $5).

Connect the alligator clip of the test light to a good ground (battery neg is best). Turn the key on, and touch the probe to the positive terminal of the coil. The positive terminal has three wires; black (electrical noise filter/capacitor), black/white (power to the ignition module in the dizzy) and black/yellow (power from the key switch). The test light should light when touching that post. If not, then you have a power issue from the ignition switch. Assuming the positive post lit the test light, touch the other post with the probe (should have white, yellow/green and blue wires). Test light will most likely lite up. Have a helper crank the engine, and watch the test light, it should flash rapidly. If the test light does not light at all, you have a bad coil or (bad) ignition module shorted to ground. To determine if its the coil or module, unplug the blue wire from the negative terminal. Touch the neg post of the coil with the probe again. If it lites now, you have a shorted module. If it still does not lite, you have a bad (open) coil. If it lites but does not flash, you have a bad ignition module. The ignition module is inside the distributor, and can be difficult to replace. But, it is still available.

[deathegg]

Ok, I will go get a cheap-o test light tomorrow, or possibly one of the roommates has one.

So, it is possible then for either the coil OR the module to go bad slowly, then die altogether?
I'm thinking that besides the mis-adjusted choke, my starting problems over the last several weeks/months could be this new issue.

I will have to do a search and see how difficult replacing that module is.

[FB71]

yes, its very possible this has been the cause of your starting issues for the past few months. And yes, its possible for either to gradually fail.

[FestYboy]

also don't forget to check for oil in the distributor (under the rotor shaft cover) oil there can inturupt the signal to the ign modual and cause a no-start.

[Pu241]

Praise be to Reverent Jim!
Hallow be is name!
May we all drink from his self-less wisdom.

Jim, thanks, better put than I would have done.

Instead of replacing the ignition module you may consider getting another distributor from a JY or place a [WTB] in the proper forum.
Be much easier to replace than the module itself.
Jim, are these the same modules as in the 323?
But you also have to set the timing again, so need to have a timing light available.
You sure as hell don't want to trust a faulty coil or module on your trip back to Pittsburgh!

[deathegg]

OH, and one more thing I forgot to relay to you, the engine has been stalling, or wanting to stall, recently. It never used to do that. After the engine gets to operating temp it will not stall. I can feel it coming, and will just tap on the gas to keep it running. Also, (and I just remembered this), the idle speed has been a bit low too.

maybe these clues will help diagnose the problem?

Again, thanks for the help.

[FB71]

Praise be to Reverent Jim!
Hallow be is name!
May we all drink from his self-less wisdom.

just remember, don't drink the Kool-Aid....