Heating Seized Wheel Studs???

[BigWheel]

I've done the search thing and see where heating the studs with a torch to loosen them has been suggested but haven't seen anything about success. Has anyone done this and if so were you successful? I can't get the dang studs loose on my 93. I've used PB Blaster to no avail. Tried the breaker bar with no results. Heat seems to be the only solution but are their drawbacks?

Thanks

[jglutz]

What Studs?
Heat is always a good solution....to much can/will ruin the temper of the metal.

[BigWheel]

What Studs?
Heat is always a good solution....to much can/will ruin the temper of the metal.

Wheel studs.

[hawkdoc60]

I had to use a 2 foot long, 1/2" drive breaker bar with a deep 14mm socket. Then I had to put another 4-5 foot pipe on the breaker bar to break the wheel studs loose on Silver Bullet. It had sat for over 10 years and they were a bit rusty. The funny part was that once I broke them loose, they screwed out with my fingers.

[jglutz]

Heat will probalbly be the best option...I don't know how your going to get PB Blaster at the threads.

Do not be afraid to tap...moderately...them with a hammer.

A breaker bar is not uncommon...with reasonable force.

Always use anti-sieze on your studs....event the counter sink (tapered) area.

If hey break...they can easily be drilled out.

[tulsacarman]

I've broken more tools trying to bust Festiva wheels loose than any other car I've dealt with before. I've tried Blaster, tapping, heat and even put an air chisel with a blunt hammer head on one to break it loose.

[Levitan]

Find the longest 1/2" breaker bar you can find with a 6 sided 14mm socket. Then, take a floor jack handle, the whole length, slide it over the end of the breaker bar, find the biggest buddy you have (300 lb friends are best) and have him stand on it. It WILL come loose.

Or, do what I did, and took it to Big O Tire, told them I wanted to buy new tires, but needed them to loosen them first, because these tires are going on my other car. They did it for free, I tipped the mechanic $5. Then take the car home, remove each bolt, add anti-seize, and torque to 69 ft lbs.

[GenevaDirt]

Impact wrench....air or electric. I was busting my butt the last time I worked on my car trying to get them off. I was using my brother in laws garage. After I tried for like 15 minutes....broke a sweat...hurt my arm....I looked over and DUHHHHH, there was the impact laying there. 1 minute later the wheel was off the car. :angry7:

[FestYboy]

soak the back side of the spindle where the lug bolts stick through w/ PB blaster, and then take a large punch and big hammer and strike the center of the bolt HARD and repeadedly. then remove with breaker bar.

[mechanicaldj]

just remember:

wheel bearing don't like too much heat

[gdawgs]

Always use anti-sieze on your studs....event the counter sink (tapered) area.

YES!!! Anti-sieze is your best friend. Use lots of goop when you put it back together. Goop the back sides of the wheels too(where they contact the hub) so they don't stick on next time you try to remove them.

[festivaWES]

Snap-On 1/2" drive impact model number MG725. It's what i have an at 1081 foot lb break away torque they'll come off. Seriouly though a large breaker bar with a cheater bar will do the trick cheaply.

[WmWatt]

Don't let service centres tighten lug bolts with an impact wrench. I tell the service desk to write on the work order to tighten lug bolts by hand. I seldom take my Festiva to a service centre any more. I tighten the bolts by hand myself using the tool which came with the car. Imagine trying to change a tire out on the highway if you can't get the lug bolts off. I'm sure they do it to avoid being sued when a wheel falls off. If it's written on the service order they are protected from a lawsuit.

[Mike McKown]

Don't let service centres tighten lug bolts with an impact wrench. I tell the service desk to write on the work order to tighten lug bolts by hand. I seldom take my Festiva to a service centre any more. I tighten the bolts by hand myself using the tool which came with the car. Imagine trying to change a tire out on the highway if you can't get the lug bolts off. I'm sure they do it to avoid being sued when a wheel falls off. If it's written on the service order they are protected from a lawsuit.

I have a couple Festivas. One has aluminum wheels, one steel. The steel wheel car does not have a problem with the lug bolts freezing. The aluminum wheel car does, even if the lug bolts have been installed only a few days earlier. The bolts tighten up nice and smooth but they make a disctinct "pop" when you break them loose and as someone noted, the bolts spin out freely with your fingers. Must be the steel bolt galling to the aluminum wheel. Anyway, last time I had the wheels off, I put them back on using anti-sieze on the threads and seat taper.

We'll see what happens.

[BigWheel]

If I didn't have a sense of humor I'd run screaming into the night. You guys will have to laugh at this with me. I worked for an hour on the studs myself this morning. Finally threw in the towel and took the car to Big 10. Watched two guys break all 16 studs loose, watched them hand tighten and I drove 2 miles home. Immediately started taking the wheels off and 3 came off with no problems, however, the right front seized back up. Got a cheater bar out, stood on the end thinking they wouldn't be hard since they were just broken loose. No go. None of the 4 would break loose. Back to heat, BP blaster, cheater bars and finally broke a brand new socket. Big 10 was closed so went to another tire shop (again) but they wanted $85 to break them loose (rip offs). So here I sit with 3 new wheels/tires on and 1 stuck. Given up for today because I'm tired. Tomorrow I will try heat again but will be more patient (don't think I gave heat a really good chance earlier). BTW anti-seize is on all of the other studs, wheels, and every other contact point. Oh and one more thing...I'm replacing the alloys with painted steel. I'm hoping the steely's will be a little easier to work with. Got to love it :-).