For the rears I just bought a 25' coil of tubing and that was perfect.
, would it be possible to make my own distrobution box thingy out of brass flare thread tees, or is there some sort of check valve in the distrobution box. Also why is there two tubes from the master cylinder?
what type of line did you use?
No on the distribution box, it is made to send the right amount of fluid to the fronts and rears. If you just tried to make one it would have different pressures to each wheel.
"FLTG4LIFE" @FINALLEVEL , "PBH"
89L Silver EFI auto
91GL Green Auto DD There ain't no rest for the wicked
until we close our eyes for good. I will sleep when I die!
I'm a little hunk of tin, nobody knows what shape I'm in. I've got four wheels and a running board, I'm not a Chevy, I'M A FORD!
I know this is an experience vs not experienced(me) question but why does everyone use hard lines instead braided lines? Why can't you replace all the brake lines with say braided steel brake lines??
Mods not sure if I should have started a new thread for this or not...
I know this is an experience vs not experienced(me) question but why does everyone use hard lines instead braided lines? Why can't you replace all the brake lines with say braided steel brake lines??
Mods not sure if I should have started a new thread for this or not...
your question is fine here. I think it would be a cost thing. The hard lines are easy to replace....just a pain (usually) to remove the old ones if you want to put them in the exact same place.
"FLTG4LIFE" @FINALLEVEL , "PBH"
89L Silver EFI auto
91GL Green Auto DD There ain't no rest for the wicked
until we close our eyes for good. I will sleep when I die!
I'm a little hunk of tin, nobody knows what shape I'm in. I've got four wheels and a running board, I'm not a Chevy, I'M A FORD!
I seeeeeeee...someone posted stainless steel lines that were bent to the stock speck here. Are braided lines more expensive that stainless steel lines?
Also can you mix and match? Say hard lines for the passenger side since that seems to be the easer side and braided for the driver's side? Or is that not recommended because it will through the pressures/tolerances off?
One more question can you use braided lines in the engine compartment then use hard lines only under the body/floor of the car? This way the parts of the hard lines that you have to bend you can see and you don't have to fumble with routing so much in the engine compartment because you are using flexible braided lines.
One more question can you use braided lines in the engine compartment then use hard lines only under the body/floor of the car? This way the parts of the hard lines that you have to bend you can see and you don't have to fumble with routing so much in the engine compartment because you are using flexible braided lines.
So you're thinking braided to the junction, and hardlines out to the wheels? Don't see why that wouldn't work. And you're right, it'd make it a lot easier to work in the engine bay. Was looking over my lines this afternoon, and there are a crap load of bends just between the MC and the junction box. Anyone else have an opinion on this? Never actually had to re-run my lines (yet). Opinions from someone who has?
I just ran both my back lines on my current DD and have done others in the past....not a big deal at all....at least in my opinion.
"FLTG4LIFE" @FINALLEVEL , "PBH"
89L Silver EFI auto
91GL Green Auto DD There ain't no rest for the wicked
until we close our eyes for good. I will sleep when I die!
I'm a little hunk of tin, nobody knows what shape I'm in. I've got four wheels and a running board, I'm not a Chevy, I'M A FORD!
Where's that emoticon where that guy slaps his head! This will do :scratch:
As far as stainless steal brake lines cost would certianly be the issue. I'd love to see the lines to the distribution block in SS and the ones goingto the front and rear brakes in solid tubing. Then where the soft lines are switch over to ss braided again. That would be awesome in my opinion, plus it would be a nice firm pedal for braking!
Well this is pretty much what I am describing. There are a couple of threads that refer to some brake tips and the lengths used were:
30" rf
20" lf
2 x 40" rear in engine compartment
2 x 20" rear wheels
60" rr over gas tank
30" lr
2 x 46" under center of car
10 lines in total
Well I sent these dimensions to a stainless steel brake line fabricator in canada and they gave me $220 w shipping which doesn't sound that bad. This is for all ss lines under the car plus some to the distrib box I believe. Now if I went with ss to the distribution block/box, regular hard in between, then ss to replace the rubber on the wheels the price might be half that maybe less since i need fewer ss lines and the lengths are shorter. Can someone help me figure out the ss lengths required for this scenario so I can get a quote?
Would it just be the 2 x 40 and the 2 x 20 for the distrib box or are these lines/lengths for something else (i.e. not to the distrib box & for the lines to the wheels)?
^^ Exactly! Just cuz theyre painted doesnt mean they wont rust!^^
Fact is if theyre painted, you may not see any damage until its too late. Like right after youve slammed into something or someone because youre brakes failed.
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