Brake Line Issues

[xlence]

Like right after youve slammed into something or someone because youre brakes failed.

Lol! That is funny Monsoon..good one. So who is going to help me with measurements?

[batstiva]

Depends on the dance, the dinner, and the movie. :lol: What do you need, just the length of all the hardlines?

[xlence]

Depends on the dance, the dinner, and the movie. :lol: What do you need, just the length of all the hardlines?

Lol! Pretty much. But I also need someone to distinguish between the measurements that are for lines coming out of the distribution box/the lines that would be ss & those that are simply under the body of the car/would remain hard lines.

[batstiva]

Okay, from the MC to the junction, are you going to replicate all the bends? I'll try to get as exact as I can, but if you're not going to go with all the little bends, it'll be kind of ballpark. The hard lines, I'm assuming exact measurements. Correct?

[xlence]

Okay, from the MC to the junction, are you going to replicate all the bends? I'll try to get as exact as I can, but if you're not going to go with all the little bends, it'll be kind of ballpark. The hard lines, I'm assuming exact measurements. Correct?

Well hmmm..looking at the proportioning valve (yipee now I know it's name) not sure. The suggestion was ss from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve so definitel exact measurements for those lines. However, we would gain in terms of maintenance if we could have the first parts of the lines leaving the proportioning valve that lead to the rear wheels also ss. We could then use a union to join the ss line to the hard lines once under the body of the car. This way we don/t have to recreate the exact bends. However, I am assuming to keep the pressures the same the lengths have to remain the same as the stock lines, sooooo if you can be as exact as possible that would be great.

Make sense?

If someone could tell me whether the lengths of the ss lines have to be exactly the same as the stock lines for the pressures to work out or is there some mathematic formula to figure out how to keep the pressures the same if you change the lengths that would be great to know also.

[batstiva]

How about this. I'll get as close as possible, with all bends, and you can take it from there as far as where to start/stop the ss and go to hard lines? May take a while.

[eurotiva]

Pressures will remain the same as brake fluid does not really compress if it has no air it will apply the same pressure at 1 foot as it would at 20 feet.

[xlence]

Pressures will remain the same as brake fluid does not really compress if it has no air it will apply the same pressure at 1 foot as it would at 20 feet.

Ok cool so as long as I have ball park numbers technically i could route the lines however I want using the original routing as a guide.

Batstiva if you could give me your best go at exact measurements for the rear lines first that would be great followed by the measurements from the proportioning valve to the master cylinder. Those are the most difficult lines and the ones i need to replace

[batstiva]

Let me grab a bite, let the car cool down a bit, and I'll get right on it.

[batstiva]

Okay, well maybe not right on it, but here goes. I definitely need a life.

If you are standing in front of the car, looking at the MC there are two lines running from the MC to the junction. All measurements are following the bends in the lines.

The front line at the MC is 33.75 inches. Hard line
The back line at the MC is 29.5 inches. Hard line

Left front line from junction to rubber soft line is 29.75 inches. Hard line
Length of the rubber soft line on left front is 20.5 inches Rubber line

Right front line from junction to rubber soft line is 29.25 inches. Hard line
I thought this side would be longer, but there are fewer bends going to the right side.
Length of the rubber soft line on right front is 16 inches Rubber line

Left rear line from junction to rubber line is 111.5 inches, or 9.5 ft. Hardline
Length of rubber soft line is 12 inches. Rubber line
Length of hardline from rubber line to brake is 15 inches. Hard line
(The sequence here is hard line from junction to rear-to rubber line over rear beam- to hard line into back of brake)

Right rear line from junction to rubber line is 151.5 in., or 12.75 ft. Hardline
(Right rear was tricky because the lines run down the left side of the car, and the right line crosses over between the gas tank and the car body. Don't know if there are any funky bends in here, so I added 6 inches, just to be safe)

Length of rubber soft line is 9 inches Rubber line
Length of hard line from rubber line to brake is 19.75 inches Hard line
(Sequence here is the same as left rear. Hard line from junction- to rubber line over rear beam-to hard line into back of brake)

If you're buying bulk line to cut yourself, might not hurt to add up the footages I gave you, and add about 10 percent. A little too much can't hurt. A little too little would suck. Big Time. :banghead:

Hope this makes sense to you. And I'm thinking Lobster right about now.
Not even going to mention the kind of dance I'm thinking. :mrgreen:
Kidding, hope this helps. Saving these measurements to my hard drive, just in case I ever need them again.

I'll leave it up to you to figure out total footage on hard line versus braided or ss, since you were talking about splicing braided onto hard line outside of the engine bay. :wink:

[GenevaDirt]

you would not need the braided lines to have all the bends the hard lines have so they will not need to be as long when using the braided.You would come out of the block and run straight down the firewall . Take a hard line from there to the rear of the car where they would join to the rubber line and convert the rubbers to stainless.
I really think this could really be a cheaper option then expected. I have a company I will call tomorrow that I think would make the lines to length and let you know.

[festivaWES]

^^ You do have no life!! LMAO!!

[batstiva]

you would not need the braided lines to have all the bends the hard lines have so they will not need to be as long when using the braided.You would come out of the block and run straight down the firewall . Take a hard line from there to the rear of the car where they would join to the rubber line and convert the rubbers to stainless.
I really think this could really be a cheaper option then expected. I have a company I will call tomorrow that I think would make the lines to length and let you know.

Wasn't sure she needed the exact lengths in the engine bay, since she was going to braided lines, but she asked for exact, with bends, so that's what I gave her. Figured she could decide from there what she wanted to do.

[GenevaDirt]

lol...I knew what you were doing...you just want that dance...lol.

[batstiva]

^^ You ain't lyin'. lol

But I think you're right. Using the braided lines will cut down on lengths needed quite a bit. And I would not want to have to copy all those damn bends.