Ignition/Sparkplugs

[TominMO]

So if i pulll a plug wire from the engine while its running and it starts running worse, taht means its ok. right? So then to put the plug wire back on should i turn off the car first or should i just slap it on. Wouldnt there be an arch from the plug as i attempted to place the wire on it again?

I would think so, yes. I recommend pulling the wires with the engine off, because of safety issues. For example someone with a heart condition might not take a shock as well as a healthier person.

[clintorino]

So, if there are differences in the way the car runs each time i pull off a plug, then it is a vacuum problem?

[batstiva]

No, then it would be a cylinder/plug/wire problem. If you pull the wires, one by one, and find that pulling one of them does not change how the car runs, then your problem is either the plug, the wire, or the cylinder at the location where you pulled the wire, and nothing changed. I would then start checking the plug, checking the wire, checking the location at the disty cap where that wire plugs in. I am really at a loss as to what they could have messed up changing the pcv valve. You did verify correct oil levels, correct?

[clintorino]

The oil looked full to me but i will look again this afternoon. Also what i was saying was that if each time i pulled a plug and there was a reaction every time, then it take us to the conclusion that the plugs, wires and dist are not the cause of the hesitation right?

[clintorino]

So i started up the car and removed each plug wire one by one. Each had the same result (making the car run rough). I also checked the oil and it was full to the brim. Sort of hard indicating it since it was recently changed and the oil was still a very light color. What do you suggest next?

[TominMO]

So i started up the car and removed each plug wire one by one. Each had the same result (making the car run rough). I also checked the oil and it was full to the brim. Sort of hard indicating it since it was recently changed and the oil was still a very light color. What do you suggest next?

Now it's time to change the cap and rotor. When you do so, in order to not mix up the plug wires, change them from the old cap to the new one, one at a time; don't just pull off the wires from the old cap all at the same time. Make sure you are holding the new cap so the right wire goes in the right location.

Wouldn't hurt to change the fuel filter too, but cap/rotor first.

[95Compact]

Whoa....

"batstiva No, then it would be a cylinder/plug/wire problem. If you pull the wires, one by one, and find that pulling one of them does not change how the car runs, then your problem is either the plug, the wire, or the cylinder at the location where you pulled the wire, and nothing changed. I would then start checking the plug, checking the wire, checking the location at the disty cap where that wire plugs in. I am really at a loss as to what they could have messed up changing the pcv valve. You did verify correct oil levels, correct?"

I think what Batstiva meant to say is that since you pulled each plug wire while running and every one made the engine run roughly, the problem is NOT the ignition system...

"So i started up the car and removed each plug wire one by one. Each had the same result (making the car run rough). I also checked the oil and it was full to the brim. Sort of hard indicating it since it was recently changed and the oil was still a very light color. What do you suggest next?"

If you've removed each plug wire while running and all of them had NO EFFECT, that likely means your ignition system is fine (plugs/wires/distributor/button).

Describe your "hesitation" a little better... do you feel it when you open up the secondary throttle plate (more spring resistance) or when you 'hit the gas' at any time?

If it is when the secondary opens, you could have a vacuum leak, since the secondary carb butterfly is opened via vacuum...

I don't think from what I've heard that it is an ignition problem.

Please clarify.


-7

[Festiva Time]

Sounds like my local Ford Dealer! They wanted to replace my whole distributor for $900 bucks! Real problem: Ignition Igniter in the distributor was bad.
I would replace the sparkplug wires and sparkplugs [use platinum-type sparkplugs. Cheap ones are good.]. Clean the rotor & Distributer cap with brake/electrical spray.
Fuel filter problems show up as running out of fuel, I.E: You try to accelerate and the car either responds slowly, or loses speed. Oh, Check your Coil wire for damage.

[clintorino]

each time i pulled a plug, the car acted horrible. There was not a time that i pulled a plug and it ran the same as it did with the plug connected. I also changed the rotor and no difference. Tonight i will change the cap. BUT after i change the cap and if there isn't any difference in performance, then what should i focus on? I do not know anything about coil wires. Please educate me in this area.

The car hesitates when i first press on the gas slowly. It jerks like once or twice each time. Generally if i am driving, i have to floor it each time when i shift to attempt to avoid the jerky's. Let me know what you think

[TominMO]

each time i pulled a plug, the car acted horrible. There was not a time that i pulled a plug and it ran the same as it did with the plug connected. I also changed the rotor and no difference. Tonight i will change the cap. BUT after i change the cap and if there isn't any difference in performance, then what should i focus on? I do not know anything about coil wires. Please educate me in this area.

The car hesitates when i first press on the gas slowly. It jerks like once or twice each time. Generally if i am driving, i have to floor it each time when i shift to attempt to avoid the jerky's. Let me know what you think

OK, now I'm thinking fuel filter, esp. for a carbed car, which has lower fuel pressure than an EFI car. Replace the fuel filter immediately, and put a new spare in the glove box or somewhere. In my experience, carbed fuel filters last about 10K miles. More than once, having a spare has saved me some major hassle, including on a road trip. Popped it on and was driving again in 10 minutes. I also keep whatever tools I need to change the filter in the car at all times too.

It might be some other carburetor-related problem, but I would start with the filter. As with the plugs, wires, cap and rotor, at least you know when it's been done. And buy a little notebook to record what you've done on the car, and at what mileage or date.

[clintorino]

Where is the fuel filter located and what tools will i need to replace it? I appreciate the help

[Banana Bonanza]

My 2cents, its fuel though nothing wrong with doing an ignition tune up, it sure wont hurt. Anyway first replace fuel filter on general principles but most likely a carb rebuild will be what is needed (betcha accelerator pump is shot), but on a feedback carb system, you basically have the worst of mechanical carb and the worst of fuel injection. Not to mention just getting that carb off the car can be quite the adventure and you need to take pics of each step or at very least get roll masking tape and label everything so you can get it all back together correctly. Stay far away from the 3 stooges playing mechanic that you went to before. They are after collecting money for boat payment not fixing cars. And they would want to replace the carb eventually after they milked you for new distributor and who knows what else, but just go price a factory rebuilt carb for one of these and it will probably be more than what car cost you, let alone the labor to replace it.

When I just recently put the low mile B6 engine in my Festiva, I went with a Weber carb I had saved off an old VW I used to own (same size engine so jetting correct) and woohoo, no hesitation with it (put new kit in it before using since it had set on shelf 20 years since last use on a car). That thing really moves with slightest pressure on the gas pedal. Going to enjoy first tank gas, then force myself to drive economically from then on.... I know from experience on the VW that this carb is capable of very good fuel mileage if the driver drives economically.

I know many are saddled with the pollution gestapo where everything has to be exactly like it came from the factory, so then back to first rebuilding the OEM carb then if still have problems, start diagnosing the computer controls, and electric/vacuum connections. The OEM carb is ok when its working right, but when it starts giving problems, it can be a pain to fix just because of the complexity of the system.

[Banana Bonanza]

Fuel filter is on drivers side of engine compartment low and against the firewall. Setting in little clip thingie near charcoal cannister. Last time I replaced it was in an autoparts store parking lot. Plugged and they didnt have an exact replacement, I used universal one with no problem though it doesnt fit the clip thingie. By way my Festie is '89 "L" too.

Tools required are minimal, screw driver and pair slip joint pliers should be enough, though after 20 years who knows what somebody else has rigged. Basically just two hose clamps and just depends on what they require. If spring type clamp, use pliers, if screw type clamps then use screwdriver. No big whoop. Might want to use two new stainless steel aircraft type screw clamps, probably cost you an extra $1 at parts store. Reusing OEM type clamps not always best economy, but if clean and rust free, maybe fine. Your call.

[clintorino]

thanks brother

[TominMO]

When I just recently put the low mile B6 engine in my Festiva, I went with a Weber carb I had saved off an old VW I used to own (same size engine so jetting correct) and woohoo, no hesitation with it (put new kit in it before using since it had set on shelf 20 years since last use on a car). That thing really moves with slightest pressure on the gas pedal. Going to enjoy first tank gas, then force myself to drive economically from then on.... I know from experience on the VW that this carb is capable of very good fuel mileage if the driver drives economically.

I know many are saddled with the pollution gestapo where everything has to be exactly like it came from the factory, so then back to first rebuilding the OEM carb then if still have problems, start diagnosing the computer controls, and electric/vacuum connections. The OEM carb is ok when its working right, but when it starts giving problems, it can be a pain to fix just because of the complexity of the system.

If you don't have to deal with pollution-control inspection issues for your car, I second the notion of a Weber. I have used them on three different vehicles; they give you more pep and even better mileage. And if you set them up to burn a little on the lean side (basically leaner main jets), even better mileage and less emissions. Check out the thread below: http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=10055

You can buy used Weber 32/36 carbs and then buy a rebuild kit. Try posting a WTB on this Subaru site: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/ Also you can buy a Weber manual to help out. I've been thinking of buying a carbed Festy just so I can do mileage checks on it with the stock carb and then with the Weber. The Weber cleans up the engine bay a lot too.