Coolant problems

[No Pstns]

My problem is that I am getting antifreeze backed up into the overflow bottle with a lot of pressure. I recently changed the timming belt & w-pump due to the belt breaking. I never had this problem before. Im leanning towards a clogged rad cuz everything else seems to check out. Just want to confirm before I spend a bunch of $$ I dont have. OOh, its a Bp swap.

[Festiva Time]

I would temporarily jumper the Radiator Fan to run all the time and see if it overheats. If not, your Radiator fan may not be activating every time it needs to. Temp Switch bad or bad spot on fan motor [usually brushes worn out]. If it still overheats, I would suspect the Thermostat.

[No Pstns]

Fan seems to be working fine. I took out the t-stat and it only overheates when all the water/antifreeze blows out of the coolant system into the overflow & out of the tube. It just seems to build soooo much pressure that it has no where else to go.

[batstiva]

Okay, so the fan seems to be working. And the coolant is circulating, correct? I know this seems to simplistic, but when you changed the water pump, did you also change the rad cap? The reason I ask this is the system is designed to be under pressure. That's what normally allows it to operate at temps above the boiling point, without boiling. The rad cap is key to maintaining this pressure. I had the same problem you are having right now with my Dakota after I changed its water pump. Changed the cap, and no more problems. (BTW, don't know about the festiva WP, but the Dakota one said the cap should be changed when the WP is replaced) If the spring in the cap is weak, the pressure from the system pushes up on it, allowing the coolant to overflow into the bottle. If the cap is good, it will withstand the pressure, and keep the coolant in the system.

[No Pstns]

I did that too!! Brand new cap. It starts to overflow as soon as the car is turned on. Even with the cap off the antifreeze blows out of the spout with force. Even more so with acceleration.
FYI: new pump -Beck & Arnley (reman)
: new rad cap -Stant
: new t-belt
: jy fan
: oe rad single core

[No Pstns]

I think i found it!!!! Took out the rad & laid it flat w? the top rad hose facing up. Put the cap on and filled the rad w/ water too the brim. I noticed that the water would drip out of the spout that connected the hose and the overflow tank. IT JUST DRIPPED OUT!!!!!:disgust: Even w/ the new cap, it stil dosent seat right!! I guess the plastic just wore away. All this down time for a stupid (GRRRRRRR) problem. Thanks for the responce!! Now gunna look for a radiator now. I guess ill up grade to a auto radiator.:blob6:

[pr0nst4r]

I would suggest putting the t-stat back in...

I took out the t-stat

[eurotiva]

Maybe a blown head gasket.

[No Pstns]

Why a blown head gasket?? I dont think the t-stat has anything to do with it unless you know something i dont.

[Festiva Time]

EuroTiva thinks it is the head gasket because you say the coolant blows (with great force) as soon as you start the engine, that means one of the cylinder is pumping into the cooling system! Check your oil for coolant contamination. We will pray it is not that bad.

[pr0nst4r]

I dont think the t-stat has anything to do with it unless you know something i dont.

Engines are meant to run at specific temperatures. Not having a t-stat causes your engine to run at a cooler temperature for a longer time, which could exacerbate the problem or create another one. It's just not a good idea.

Have you tried flushing the coolant lines to remove potential air? Could also be a bunk belt on your water pump causing it to not spin enough.