Car hesitates and runs badly. Kia Pride

[ejp2fast]

no question you have an EFI engine... electronic fuel injection..

the last picture on the lower right side would be the MAP/VAF sensor....

still wonder why you are getting a code 13?

also the TPS is the sensor that when looking into the engine with the hood up, the sensor that is to the right of the intake tube on the throttle body
see picture

[pher]

Problem solved :-)

A friend found some vacuum cables that were broken. After fixing this, the car seems to run ok again.

Now I like the car again Runs smoother then ever I think. Havent driven it so much yet.

Thanks for your support!

[ejp2fast]

glad you got it fixed!

[pher]

..Well after driving it a bit more, there are still some smaller problem. I have checked the error code, but everthing seems fine. No error code.

However, sometime the engine "cuts" for a sec then runs ok again. Not to often. And on idle it revs between 600-1000 rpm (when warm, otherwise it is ok). Not consistant. It happens that it stalls on idle when the engine i warm.

I have checked for leaks with startspray around intake and vacuumcables, but it doesnt seemed to be any problem there. I think the only thing I havent change is the distributor cap and the wires. Could it be the distributor?

[TominMO]

When did you last do a tune-up? Plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor inside distributor. People often forget that plug wires matter too. Many only last about 100K miles/162K KM.

I had a similar prolem myself recently. When I cleaned the contacts on the inside of the distributor cap, the missing went away. The contacts were quite corroded. Some people here recommend cleaning them on general purposes every time you do an oil change. It's quick and easy to do.

Also, it might be the electronic piece inside the distributor (I forget what it's called) starting to go out. But I'd try cleaning the disty cap contacts first.

Question for anyone: how long does that module inside the distributor typically last?

[pher]

Still problem.

Hello,

I still havent fixed the idle problem, and now it has gotten worse.

I have changed the distributor cap and rotor this week, but didnt help. I have measured the resistance in ignition cables. About 5kOhm-12kOhm, seems ok.

I did remove the air intake sensor and I could not notice any diffrent with the motor running in its rough idle. Should it be a big diffrence if the car was running fine?

Yesterday I checked if the TDC and camshaft marks were correct, and they were. I have tested the ignition with stroboskop and it looks ok, but when the rough idle comes it goes a bit before the TDC mark.

Today I also checked for error codes, but nothing. Should a faulty air intake sensor (I think you call it VAF? (sitting in the airfilterbox) be showed by the error code, or could i be broken? As I sad, didnt notice any diffrent when disconnecting the sensor and running in idle. Ruff idle all the time.

How can I test this sensor, what kind of signal would the engine like if everything is ok?

Really annoying problem :-) The car runs fine when reving it high or going in motorway at above 3000 rpms.
It hesitates and cough when changing gear at lower rpm, and idle between 500-1000 rpm. The power of the car is fine, runes fine when full throttle. It doesnt take so much gasoline either.

When listening to the engine, I think att can here some sort of leak, but not shore. Do you have a picture to follow all vaccuumlines? I am also not sure witch cables are running Vacuum. Tryed removing the on top av intake, near the throttle, higher rpm, still ruff. Then I removed the vaccum line to some solenoid valve and the car totally stop running in idle and runs on perhaps tree och two cylinder when reving. But For example, when I remove the Vacuumline at the EGR nothing happens and no vacuum can be found there on idle.

Hmm, perhaps its just a vacuum line, btw I have change the fuelfilter a year ago, didnt help either... think I will stop here =)

Do you have any ideas?

[FestYboy]

check for corrsion at VAF and TPS harness plugs and also at the ignition coil tower. it sounds like you're having spark issues, but it could also be poor connections at either of the harness plugs (or possibly internaly in the sensor itself).

just re-read your post and you mention an EGR valve? could you post a picture of your engine please?

[pher]

Yes, will check the cables this weekend. You can find som pictures in the page 2 before this one.

I have ordered new spark plugs NGK BPR5ES11, and will change later this weekend. I will also replace all vacuumlines that I can find.

The EGR I thinks is the one besides the cam belt side. Last picture in the imagepost earlier made. I have cleaned it and seems to work find when manually applying vacuum. However could not notice any vacuum in the lines that connects to it (running on idle). Perhaps the vacuum for this one comes when reving higher?

[FestYboy]

ok, the state side Festivas do NOT have an EGR on the EFI engines. However, seeing that you have one, it should only be active under mild load and at cruising speeds (2-3500rpm). it shoudl NEVER activate at idle or while reving the engine. applying vaccum to the unit should cause the engine to stumble and/or try to stall at idle.

[pher]

Video of the idleproblem and rev cough at 2000 rpm

Aha, Thanks, really appriciate your help

Today I have been trying to find some leaks and have change atleast one vacuumcable. Cant find any leaks but probably missing som vacuum cable.

Changed to NGK sparks today, but didnt remove the problem.

I have made some videos of the car, and the problem, the three videos are made today.

Now I have a Youtube account :-)

Check it out:

http://www.youtube.com/user/ThePellepan#p/a/u/2/WHA5Cs2UMSk

Much easier if you can se and listen to the problem I guess.

[FestYboy]

ok, you sir have a MAP system! the plug at the air filter box is your intake air temp sensor. the other solenoid that you disconnected appears to drive the EGR vac port.

to diagnose a potential vaccum leak, spray carb clean (engine will bog) or Ether (engine will surge) in the area you suspect the leak to be.

i would also inspect behind the distributor rotor cover (under the rotor) for any oil leakage. if you find some, hose it down with Brake Clean.

start there and see what you find.

[pher]

Unfortunatly I have sprayed just about everywhere I think with what is in Sweden called "Start Gas", which I guess i simular to your carb spray. However nothing happens. Perhaps I am missing some place though. I will look it over again.

Could it be the fuelpump, that for some reason runs badly in idle and around 2000-2500 rpm?

I have not change the fuelpump, but the car has only run about 64000 km / 1.6 = 40 000 miles. And when I read other having problems it seems it often the vacuum hoses.

So hard to find the problem.

Whish I hade a vacuumdiagram of every cable for this engine so I dont miss one. The car has been like this for over a year now. But I think it has gotten a bit worse.

[zoom zoom]

Is your car fuel injected or carb'd? here's a diagram of 95 aspire vacuum lines.. probably isn't very far off if your car is fuel injected.. if carb'd, check out the sticky in this forum for those diagrams..

[FestYboy]

Zoom, did you even watch the videos? if not please do so you can catch up with the rest of us. a '95 aspire has nothing in common with his engine other than the block and head.

[Basement_Modder]

Is your car a 2-door? It looks just like our 1st gen festivas. Amazing if they still were made in 2000...