In the link, it looks like he used 30-40-30, that's why I thought 50 would be overkill. And yes, the fuse/link is there to take the hit if there's a power problem. Put too high a fuse/link in there, and the wiring takes the hit instead of the fuse. The fuse will be much, much easier to replace than tracking down where the wire fubared. Trust me on this one.
When I was a cable guy, we had a node that blew fuses pretty much daily. (turned out the cable had been shot, and there was a .22 round in there, making contact whenever the cable moved, blowing the fuse) Anyway, me in my infinite wisdom decided to replace the 10 amp fuse that kept blowing with a 30 amp. End result, instead of frying a 25 cent fuse, I fried a $6000.00 node. :shock:
The boss was not happy.
Dumb thieves go to prison, smart ones go to work for the Government.
1988 L - 232K miles Batstiva
1989 L - 247K miles Slick
1990 L - 281K miles Orphan Annie
Let the hoarding begin!! :mrgreen:
Thanks again everyone.. By the way, if anybody has an extra fuseable link box/panel that they want to sell, please let me know as I obviously desperately need one
crap well i just looked at my parts car and the fuseable link box is junk the wires are extremely corroded and ripped out of the box itself before i could even remove it.
ok.. this is wierd! now, I just realized that when I turn the key to start it, the fan kicks on right before the crank and then it won't start, it just cranks! But, after trying over & over a few times, it will finally start, but if I tap on the steering column firmly, it will turn off! Should the electric fan kick on right before I try to start it like that?? It's never done that before. Did I hook up the F-links incorrectly? My headlights, radio and everything else that's linked to the f-link is working just fine, except it just won't stay running. It seems like the fuel pump keeps kicking on & off the times I do get it started. Like I said, if I tap firmly on the steering column when I do get it started, it will turn off. So now, I'm trying to figure out if it's the f-link set up, the key cylinder mechanism, the fuel pump, I DON'T KNOW!!! I think I'm losing my mind... H E L P !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
ok.. this is wierd! now, I just realized that when I turn the key to start it, the fan kicks on right before the crank and then it won't start, it just cranks! But, after trying over & over a few times, it will finally start, but if I tap on the steering column firmly, it will turn off! Should the electric fan kick on right before I try to start it like that?? It's never done that before. Did I hook up the F-links incorrectly? My headlights, radio and everything else that's linked to the f-link is working just fine, except it just won't stay running. It seems like the fuel pump keeps kicking on & off the times I do get it started. Like I said, if I tap firmly on the steering column when I do get it started, it will turn off. So now, I'm trying to figure out if it's the f-link set up, the key cylinder mechanism, the fuel pump, I DON'T KNOW!!! I think I'm losing my mind... H E L P !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
So, as soon as you turn the key, the fan kicks on? That shouldn't happen. And are you saying if you tap the steering column firmly the fan shuts off, or the car shuts off? Are you sure you reconnected the wires as they were routed in the old F/L box?
Dumb thieves go to prison, smart ones go to work for the Government.
1988 L - 232K miles Batstiva
1989 L - 247K miles Slick
1990 L - 281K miles Orphan Annie
Let the hoarding begin!! :mrgreen:
So, as soon as you turn the key, the fan kicks on? That shouldn't happen. And are you saying if you tap the steering column firmly the fan shuts off, or the car shuts off? Are you sure you reconnected the wires as they were routed in the old F/L box?
Yes, as soon as I turn the ignition key, the fan kicks on BEFORE I start cranking. Then, I will crank it but it will not start unless I keep trying. When it finally does start, if I were to firmly tap on the steering wheel or steering column, the engine turns back off. As for me being sure that I reconnected the wires as they were routed in the old f-link box, the answer is "I think I did it right", but I guess I'm going to have to triple check. I know that all three wires had a power in and a power out. I had to connect all the power out wires together and then connect them to the black power out coming out of the car itself (you know the black wire that had a screw attached to it in the old f-link box). Also, my car has an automatic remote start and that works perfectly everytime! I just hit the start button and it fires right up and stays running as it should. But when I try to start it with my key, the electric fan kicks on first and so forth & so on.. Again, my remote start starts the car perfectly, so I guess that eliminates the possibility of a bad fuel pump since the car stays running that way. But the key on the other hand, it might start 2 out of 10 tries and then that might last about 2-4 minutes before cutting back off while I'm driving.
You need to look at the connections of the remote start....that someone installed.....and cut into the factory harness. Around the steering column....I've seen so many people hack a cars wiring to install remote starts, alarms, stereos..just my .02c
ignition switch failure... likely an open in the switch.
Would that cause my fan to turn on before I start cranking the car? Also, it it is an ignition switch failure, why does my automatic remote start work properly? Isn't that also connected to the ignition switch?
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