Engine issue with low power (deceleration) going uphill

[i218127]

You speed up on decel because of high vacum to the distributor. This advances the spark more, and power/speed increases. Your guy checked the vacum advance I'm sure. Check and see that the vacum is actually getting to the distributor.

If it's the original belt, would wonder how its still going. That thing must be chewed to pieces. I think others will agree, breaking a belt while the engine is running could be real trouble.

"Drive On...ARMY"

[Pu241]

If it's the original belt, would wonder how its still going. That thing must be chewed to pieces. I think others will agree, breaking a belt while the engine is running could be real trouble.

"Drive On...ARMY"

No, others wouldn't agree!
OEM belts wear very well, if not doused with oil or gas!
Mine has 230K miles on it!
The only real trouble is inconvenience and safety.
These engines are non-interference, so no damage to the engine will occur if the timing belt breaks.
That said, while checking for base timing it would be a good idea to checkout the belt.
If it is "chewed up" by all means replace it.
If it is oil soaked don't bother till you find and fix the oil leak.

The point of getting base timing correct is that if it is off by a tooth, or more, it will run as you have described. Probably hard to start too.
But the distributor can not augment the loss of base timing enough to compensate.
So get base timing correct then adjust distributor and at least you can eliminate one potential cause for lack of power.
When the '89 carbies are running well, they pull all the way to redline.
Ask 25Horseplay!

[Levitan]

I got to thinking after reading this thread for the second time. When you say decelerate are you saying car slows down AND engine rpms drop? Or are you saying car slows down BUT engine rpms stay up? If it's the second one then it's probably exhaust obstruction ie plugged cat.

[FestYboy]

^ not with a manual trans SM. the accel after clearing the hill is likely due to opperator input @ the accel pedal. check your base (cam) timing, then replace wires as they are the only thing left and are of sufficient age/milage. also, check your fuel pressure after the pump (should be 3-4 psi).

[i218127]

Hard to understand anyone risking his life, and possibly the lives of others, for a few dollars in parts and a little labor. If you even think the belts bad, replace it. If your in doubt, replace it. You can't lose. Your life, however, can't be replaced (Safety issue). Superior knowledge not withstanding, its hard to rationallize standing in "Butt Deep" rain or snow or blistering heat to prove a point. Being stuck ...and right... isn't fun. Your just stuck...period. If its suspected, fix IT before it fixes YOU!


"Drive On...ARMY"

[easywind]

I usually stay out of performance issues on the thread as I realize there are some very savvy automobile enthusiasts here but I will tell you I have a 88 Festiva and 97 Aspire both 5 speeds and the Aspire is tuned to the 9'sssssss and this is what happens. There most probably nothing wrong. 6% is a huge grade to be climbing, the only thing that helps is keeping the momentum going but even that will eventually disappear. No Festiva or Aspire can climb a 6% grade without loosing power, just the nature of the beast.




I have a Festiva '89 (2bbl, 4gear manual, L model. last year I posted another engine question). The issue with the engine is this: when driving uphill (e.g. a gradual 6% grade), it decelerates gradually if I am driving with a good initial speed before hitting the hill (e.g. say at 50mph, it goes down to 25-30mph), it is even worse over sharp inclines with initial low speed (10-20mph -> 5mph). It is worse yet, when starting at the bottom of a hill say with 30 deg incline, it does not want to go!!

The story is long as how it ended up like this, but a tuneup expert tuned up the engine performance (the carb, the knobs for engine rpm, etc, NOT changing spark plugs or oil) when it was way out of tune, but basically he did not check for engine power when a hill is hit (note I have foot on the pedal close to the floor even when it is decelerating!). When car clears the hill (say the road becomes flat or downhill), then it accelerates and regains its speed.

I need to know what some of the causes of this situation may be (I guess it is throttling somehow, but if so, why?). Any suggestions, ideas or questions that may solve this mystery and how to go about fixing it are most appreciated. I will check responses here.

Thanks!
Joe[/QUOTE]

[m715]

I also have a 1989 that I have owned for 7 yrs or so and driven daily commuting some years exclusively other years in combinations with other Festivas we have etc. The interesting thing is, my trip ALSO has the dreaded 6% long grade hill on it up and back down the highest elevation hill in our county, and as a added bonus, a trip up the next counties highest hill also, just not with the "new" gradual slope.
I believe I can tell you with some authority what the "problem" is... lack of horsepower. Plain and simple. All my stock b3 engined cars do the same thing. The exception to the rule is the crate engined car with a K&N stack filter, and FMS performance camshaft that has that extra zip the others lack.
Think of it this way... our 88&9 Carburated cars have from the factory 58 HP. Now factor in the wear on an engine with the mileage on it. Now take another modern 4 cyl car( for example our 1997 Camry) and figure how much extra horsepower it has compared to our cars. Even the Camry changes gear twice going up that hill before it makes the peak. It just does it more quietly than the Festivas do. I run the stock b3's in 3rd gear at 4000 RPM up those hills for that reason, and found that the gas milage IMPROVED doing so not allowing it to bog down going up the hills. Even the slight difference in horsepower between them, and the "warmed up" new b3 makes a GREAT DEAL of difference on that same hill. I don't shift out of 4th in that car. I thought it interesting were I read one guy's analogy of swapping a b3 with a b6 in that just .3 litres difference in engine displacement equates to a 40% differential in power to weight. The small displacement is what gives us that great fuel economy, but the price is in power. This may be just my opinion, but I back that with easily 200,000 miles of driving the kind of route conditions you are describing.

HTH
Michael