So, tonight i planned to replace plugs, wires cap and rotor to solve the starting issue. I replaced the plugs and wires and gave it a try. I cranked it 2 or 3 different times and then it finally fired and ran. I shut it off and tried it again and it would not start. Then i replaced the cap and rotor. After doing that I attemped to start it again and it would not fire. Im thinking it's either the coil or the fuel pump but im not certain. Tomorrow I am going to disconnect a fuel line and turn it on to see if the fuel pump is pumping fuel. What else could it be? I just did a clutch and everything went well except that the wires on the park/neutral sensor broke off. It ran after we did the clutch once we persuaded it with some foul language, but it ran. Now it wont. Any ideas?
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check the fusible links , just behind the battery under the hood on the strut tower. The center one mainly....make sure it is not corroded and broken....making connection sometimes."FLTG4LIFE" @FINALLEVEL , "PBH"
89L Silver EFI auto
91GL Green Auto DD
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until we close our eyes for good.
I will sleep when I die!
I'm a little hunk of tin, nobody knows what shape I'm in. I've got four wheels and a running board, I'm not a Chevy, I'M A FORD!
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Is it possible you complicated the issue by putting the wires on the cap in the wrong order? Don't mean to insult, just axing.90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!
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its getting spark, im pretty sure the timing is ok too. The wires are all in order, i made sure and did them one at a time. Im going to check the fuel pump when i get home, but im guessing the fuel pump is ok. One thing im not sure of is the park/ neutral sensor on the trans. Its the only thing we messed up when we did the clutch, so hopefully thats all it is. Could anything be wrong in the clutch? It drove just fine the only thing was the clutch petal had a lot of play in the top and engaged right off the floor and i havent adjusted it yet. Anything else im not thinking of? I was going to hit the top of the engine with a sledgehammer but then i decided against it.... Thanks for the imput guys.Last edited by ShagFestiva; 11-03-2009, 12:01 PM.Tyler
91 Festiva, 5spd, B8 swapped, now for paint and suspension
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Hmm...So it cranks but does not start?? Or when you turn the key the car does nothing, not even make a noise?? You say it ran after you did the clutch but only with foul language? How did run after you did the clutch? Fine...or rough...more detail please. I wouldn't be focusing on anything but the things that you've personally made repairs too. You say you've checked the wiring order which is good. I know that I got an aftermarket cap and rotor and the order was different from the old cap. They misnumbered it. But you'd have to get the order completely messed up in order for it not to run, correct? Because when I wired mine I wired like my old cap and I think they had mis placed 2 and 4 but basically the result was I had dropped 2 cylinders. So i swapped my wires around the cap until the order was right and I was no longer missing. But my car ran with the wiring order wrong...just ran like dog poop. So I duno if its the cap. Double and triple check things. Patience is the key. Hit something else with a sledge hammer. A buick lesabre perhaps? That would be cool. As long as you send me pictures.Last edited by Pu241; 11-03-2009, 06:17 PM.My Festiva: 92 1.3L, 5 speed, No options (yet), and 173,000 mi on original engine.
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Originally posted by TominMO View Post...just axing.
Either your spell check is off or it's using the Ebonics dictionary :pFestiva: Because even my dog can build a Honda.
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'90 L. B8ME/Kia Rio 5 speed. Rio/Aspire suspension swap. :-D
'81 Mustang. Inline 6, Automatic.
'95 Eagle Summit Wagon. 4G64 Powered.
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My bet would be on the fuel pump. You are getting spark, but no fire. Like jared said, it would probably still run, just run like crap, if the wires were not right. You say you are "pretty sure" the timing is ok, so I would say it's not getting fuel. If your fuel pump checks out ok, then maybe you should check your timing and be "SURE" it is right. That's just my $.02. I hope it is worth more than that to you.The normal is not always normal... MOST is not ALL... And any job can be hard if you don't have the right tools!!!
My Fleet:
89 L 4spd (Daily Driver(if it isn't broke down)) "Spanky"
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Well, I did a little more research on the problem and came up with something else...
Post your Festiva or Aspire repair and maintenance issues. - USE THIS FORUM FOR ANY TECHNICAL RELATED POST (IE. How do I change my oil?, How to remove axle from tranny?, etc)
It may not be your problem, but it is pretty interesting to say the least...The normal is not always normal... MOST is not ALL... And any job can be hard if you don't have the right tools!!!
My Fleet:
89 L 4spd (Daily Driver(if it isn't broke down)) "Spanky"
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Wow guys thanks for all the input. Geneva you were right the middle fusible link was loose and getting bad connection. I caressed it and it fires right up every time. Took it out for a drive, and it doesnt miss at all. Its really running great. But now I have more problems haha. It's leakin antifreeze out of one of the hoses below the exhaust manifold and when it gets warm it idles lower, and lower and lower until the engine revs itself up to stay alive. It does that for about 5 minutes and then idles really low and turns off. Today im taking a day off from working on it, but tomorrow im going to check the air filter and fiddle with the idle screw. Hopefully that clears up the idle issue. I cant thank you guys enough for solving my headache.Tyler
91 Festiva, 5spd, B8 swapped, now for paint and suspension
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I seriously doubt the idle screw is your issue. Being yours is a 91, I take it you have Fuel Infection... (yes, I know it's Injection) I would venture to say it sounds like you have a vacuum leak and the computer is trying to correct the issue by adjusting things and not able to. Fix your antifreeze leak first, no since in burning up the motor for nothing. Then listen for vacuum leaks or use a wd40 or starting fluid to spray in the area around the vacuum lines in small spurts to locate the leak.
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Originally posted by ShagFestiva View PostWow guys thanks for all the input. Geneva you were right the middle fusible link was loose and getting bad connection. I caressed it and it fires right up every time...
Festiva: Because even my dog can build a Honda.
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'90 L. B8ME/Kia Rio 5 speed. Rio/Aspire suspension swap. :-D
'81 Mustang. Inline 6, Automatic.
'95 Eagle Summit Wagon. 4G64 Powered.
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yeah I plan on getting those fuses because the old one is just going to give me headaches down the road. Thanks shorty ill try the WD40 trick. Im guessing it bubbles up if theres a lvacuum eak? and the coolant leak isnt that bad dont worry the motor wont burn up, its just a small drip and i dont drive the car yet. Only test drives every once in a while.Tyler
91 Festiva, 5spd, B8 swapped, now for paint and suspension
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