your right....but I would of gone over and helped him .....but I slept on it and I thought better of it.
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all i wanted was if the tps or air intake or maf going bad would cause the light to come on. i know getting the code checked will usally tell me right off the bat but out hear no one by me does it and if they do they charge out the butt to do it. i wasn't trying to be a big butthead i sounded like, but really it didn't really help me much but i was kind of angry with some thing so i just was bin a butthead. so i am sorry,but i don't want to get codes checked. just would some thing cause it to studder like that while driving and at a idle? after the light comes on then shuts off that is what i really want to know. im thingking that it is the tps. it also does it when i start the car and strat driving it will studder when i get going from stop light to stop light. warm and cold it does it all the time now.
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Okay, the short answer to your question is "yes". A bad tps, or a bad maf, or a bad O2 sensor, or a bad EGR, will all cause the check engine light to come on, and all can cause stuttering/poor running conditions. Bad plugs/wires/cap/rotor button can also cause the same problems without causing the check engine light to come on. Without getting the code read, or reading it yourself, you'd be guessing at best. You could also pour a lot more money into changing parts that are not bad than you would have spent to get the code read.
Seriously, a 10 dollar analog VOM, and 15 minutes will tell you where your problem is. No one on here will be able to tell you exactly what the problem is without either you finding out what code you are throwing, or without them coming to you, or you to them, and looking at the car. Simple as that.
1988 L - 232K miles BatstivaDumb thieves go to prison, smart ones go to work for the Government.
1989 L - 247K miles Slick
1990 L - 281K miles Orphan Annie
Let the hoarding begin!! :mrgreen:
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It's all good. Sometimes you either gotta cuss, throw something, or be a butthead to someone. Just how it works.
FWIW, you can also get a OBD1 Code scanner from Autozone for 30 bucks, if you don't want to do the Analog VOM thing.
1988 L - 232K miles BatstivaDumb thieves go to prison, smart ones go to work for the Government.
1989 L - 247K miles Slick
1990 L - 281K miles Orphan Annie
Let the hoarding begin!! :mrgreen:
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there is no need to buy anything to check the code if you do it the way it is described in the link provided....when you ground it out all you have to do is watch the check engine light and count the flashes. Pretty simple.
Now I can understand the frustration but when people are trying to help you it is not wise to all mad about things. Plus this is not the arena so you are not allowed to cuss here. I understand you are/were upset so I will let it go this time and just change the post. No ,matter how mad you are please do not cuss outside of the arena."FLTG4LIFE" @FINALLEVEL , "PBH"
89L Silver EFI auto
91GL Green Auto DD
There ain't no rest for the wicked
until we close our eyes for good.
I will sleep when I die!
I'm a little hunk of tin, nobody knows what shape I'm in. I've got four wheels and a running board, I'm not a Chevy, I'M A FORD!
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Originally posted by GenevaDirt View Postthere is no need to buy anything to check the code if you do it the way it is described in the link provided....when you ground it out all you have to do is watch the check engine light and count the flashes. Pretty simple.
Now I can understand the frustration but when people are trying to help you it is not wise to all mad about things. Plus this is not the arena so you are not allowed to cuss here. I understand you are/were upset so I will let it go this time and just change the post. No ,matter how mad you are please do not cuss outside of the arena.
1988 L - 232K miles BatstivaDumb thieves go to prison, smart ones go to work for the Government.
1989 L - 247K miles Slick
1990 L - 281K miles Orphan Annie
Let the hoarding begin!! :mrgreen:
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hofficergrover!!!!!!!!!!!
please read the following VERY CAREFULLY:
Originally posted by GenevaDirt View Postthere is no need to buy anything to check the code if you do it the way it is described in the link provided....when you ground it out all you have to do is watch the check engine light and count the flashes. Pretty simple.
and everything you need to know is within this thread and links posted
I am the original
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hey guys i did the method explained in the link that was posted and i flashed 9 times witch was the temp sensor so i replaced it and reset it. then the car still ran bad so i check it again but the light just comes on for a few seconds and then shuts off and don't come back on. does this mean no codes? the car still idled a little higher and ran rough when i tried to take off.
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ok the car started to run fine then i parked it and let it sit for about 4 hours. went into town to get my gf form work. not even 5 mins into driving the light came on and then shut off and the car started to jolt like it not getting fuel really bad!!! like give whiplash bad.
so when i stopped to get her i pulled the wire out and tested it and well it flashed 9 times. so i am guessing that the wire must be bad so i am going to look into that but for now any ideas? i replaced the sensor with a good one from another car.
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