Headlights+Taillights+Dash Light (don't work) Brights+Turn Signal+Rev. Lights (Work)

[mdswsu]

::bump::

Anyone have any ideas on what could be the problem?

[damac]

No idea if it helps but I had a problem a ways back on my 1997 model. All sorts of wierd things were happening. At one point if I was lucky enough to get the lights to engage they would flicker on/off while on the highway while driving.

For me it ended up being something I would have never thought of, the actual column switch. It clicked and moved ok but something was crossing up in it, making it look like I had all sorts of gremlins.

I got a new cluster from some nice member on this forum, swapped it in and no problems.

I had got desperate at one point and needed to drive the car so it was my last effort to cut the light switch out of the loop and I wired up a temporary switch.

[JohnGunn]

Can anyone tell me what I could use to do a diagnostic on the wiring system? Anyone have any glue why only my running lights and headlights don't work.

First, if you are serious about keeping your Festiva running through your own efforts, it is essential that you acquire a manual. The Haynes manual, "Ford Festiva & Aspire, 1988 thru 1997, all models," is a good one to start with. It is full of pictures and diagrams which would take thousands of words to only approximate here. I got mine used in "very good" condition on Amazon.com for $10 to $15. At AutoZone they go for full retail at $25. Amazon link is

http://www.amazon.com/Festiva-Aspice-1988-1997-Haynes-Manuals/dp/1563922878/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1266830883&sr=1-1

Looking at the headlight wiring diagram on page 12-28, it shows that your model doesn't have a headlight relay. 12V comes into the switch from the battery through the head fusable link into the switch on a red wire. The "on" switch for the headlights connects those 12 volts to either the headlight low or high beams depending on the position of the dimmer switch within the combination switch.

When you are looking at an electrical problem I think it is wise to first suspect the active elements of the circuit in question before you start suspecting the wiring. The only common active element of the headlights and running lights is the switch, but I believe you would be better off to start off concentrating on one problem at a time, usually the most important one, which, in this case, is the headlights.

Since the bulbs are a very active component of the headlight system, you should make sure they are good.

Next, you should be able to test to see that you have 12V coming into and out of the "head" fusable link. After that you need to know that those 12V are coming into the switch. That requires removing the switch, WITH THE BATTERY DISCONNECTED, to identify the appropriate red wire. From Haynes page 12-5 that appears to be the terminal #7 in their terminal identification guide. Using a volt/ohm meter you should find continuity between the output side of the "head" fusable link and the #7 terminal. After that, test the rest of the headlight part of the switch using your meter as described on that same page. It looks to me like there is a mistake in the wiring diagram on page 12-28. The "HI" and "LO" labels inside the switch are reversed.

If the switch checks out to this point you will want to test continuity from the switch output terminals to each of the headlight sockets. When you finish this procedure you will have a more focused question to put to the experts here.

Since a couple of very knowledgeable members have already identified the switch as a likely cause, you might also get one from a junk yard and just put it in with your fingers crossed. Just remember to start replacing parts without a good understanding of the way a system works can be a most expensive habit.

John Gunn
Coronado, CA

[1988redfordfestiva]

i just did the same thing and had the same peoblem this fixed it like it was bran new and i thank all the guys here at fordfestiva.com for helping me my 88 is slowly coming together thanks again