No Spark?

[TWO-FOUR]

I totally understand about checking for all (current) problems and about the check engine light so let me try and make my question a little clearer as well.. im asking if there is a reason for the light not comeing back on after it fired the 1st time? i do understand why it would not come back on after it fires and if the ignition is left on (not throwing a code) which is good.. but after trieng again with turning the ignition (off) shouldnt the c/e light be comeing back on? just curious and find it wierd that it fired when the light did come on but then when the light does not come on theres no fireing... I sincerly apologize if this has been answered and for any frustration i have caused.. This is the only question i am asking and i will check for spark and fire this friday and also clean the disto and let you guys know the results of it...

[JohnGunn]

Glad we're back working together on this.

You are right, there is something wrong if the check engine light doesn't come on when the ignition switch is turned from off to on. That would indicate that the bulb is burned out, but I find it difficult to believe that it would burn out at the very moment you were looking at it. There is a fuse which protects that circuit, "Meter Fuse 10A", which could have blown. But if that were the case you would loose other lights as well, oil pressure, brake, charge lights plus the fuel and temperature gauges. On Friday, when you first turn on the ignition, check for those lights and gauges as well as the check engine light. If they are all dead, then the Meter Fuse is probably blown.

Since I don't see how that fuse could affect the starting of the engine, I think it best to put the light problem on hold and continue concentrating on getting the engine running.

John Gunn
Coronado, CA

[TWO-FOUR]

that was my main concern of the light.. i thought it was possible that since it was not comeing back on that maybe it would indicate another/different problem and im about 98% positive that the other indicator lights and the fuel gauge still work but i will for sure check them out as well friday and im glad were both on the same page again and i finally got my question understood..

[TWO-FOUR]

i didnt get to it this friday but as soon as i do i will post the results..

[TWO-FOUR]

ok so heres a quick update.. im finally getting some free time to get up to where the car is and i checked for spark and there is no spark also tried the vacum hose with a lil gas and no fire at all.. i was unable to clean the disto i ran out of time and had to leave for work but ill most likely be swinging up there again tomorrow and try it then..

[TWO-FOUR]

So i finally got a chance to check the disto, sorry it took SUCH a long time but dont get much time to go work on it these days but here it is.. what i did was took the cap off and kinda brushed the contact points off with my finger (didnt have carb cleaner) and also bent the center prong thing out a little and put the cap back on and she fired right up and ran fine shut it off and re-started it a few times and fired right up every time... so would that mean the cap is pretty much shot or on its way out and thats probably whats been causeing it to just up and die? I remember doing this once before with the same results but then started dieing again but i dont remember if ive tried it more then those 2 times.. so where do i go at this point new cap? Also all lights and gauges are working correctly!

[Team Lightning]

With your description, I definitely WOULD replace the cap and rotor.

[Pu241]

Congrats on finding the problem.
New cap and rotor if they are good quality and fit would be one way to go.
I just hit mine with a brass brush every oil change.
Just a few passes to remove the oxide layer on both the rotor and the four conductor points inside the cap and you should be good to go for a while.

[TWO-FOUR]

I think ill probably just replace it and hope that its been the cause of my problems.. I say hope only because i did brush the contacts before and the problem continued after little driveing so hopefully with a new one it wont happen any more.. Also now i think i may need a new thermostat due to some over heating issues man its always something with this car!! lol Thanks again for all the help guys i appreciate it..

[Pu241]

If the problem continued after a "little driveing" then the rotor/cap isn't the problem.
Buying a new isn't going to solve fix this.

[TWO-FOUR]

Any idea what would be causeing it to do this then? I mean ive replaced the ignition module and the coil, if its not the cap/rotor what else could just cause it to just up and die? And yeah just driveing it 20-30 miles and it does it again but i did not drive it this time due to not haveing anyway to get it or me back if it did die so i just let it warm up good and reved it and it didnt even spudder.. And i stated before when it does die 98% the time its always been when i hit the gas atleast 3/4 the way down or floor it dont know if thats a sign of anything or not but just thought id throw it out there again just in case.. Everyone says not to just start replaceing parts till you know the problem but at this point im starting to think thats about my only option lol

[shadetree]

ten pin plug under battery

had the same problem months ago and it was the ten pin plug under bettery had several corroded and broken wires just a thought

[TWO-FOUR]

ill have to check that out, is it directly under the battery? Thanks

[1988redfordfestiva]

quick ? did u replace the module under the rotor button ? if u did did u touch this module with your hands ? cause if u did that's why its not working i know I've had this issue with the Mitsubishi modules..
You must use a cloth no rubber gloves other then that that's the ways it need to be done..