3rd failed ignition module?

[doylerl]

EDIT:
The coil in the picture is the old one. I just opened the new one and printed on it is
"12V
External Resistor Required"
Do I need a resistor or is it ok to hook this one up as is? The part # is E504P. It is a BWD coil from advance auto.

I went back to the parts store and asked them about the coil. They said put it on like that. They also said that a failed ignition module could be from bad plugs, wires, cap, or rotor. The manager proceeded to tell me that if I didn't replace those parts, he would not replace the disty if it failed again, and he would VOID the waranty. Kinda crappy IMO. Either spend another $50-$60 on a tune up or I won't honor your waranty? I don't believe the waranty had a clause in it about replacing other parts before exchanging. The tune up was less than a year old (or even 4,000 miles!) and all the parts for it were purchased there! If their parts fail that often, maybe I should be shopping somewhere else. I guess they expect me to do a tune-up with every fill-up!? Whatever... any other ideas?

[FB71]

BS. Secondary ignition components will NOT cause a failure of the module, unless you completely disconnect a plug wire while the engine is running, and don't allow it to discharge to ground. That will cause the secondary voltage to arc to the primary windings inside the coil, damaging the coil and module. Resistance checks of the coil will often look fine on an arc damaged coil. If the engine isn't misfiring, there is no need to replace those components, and he is completely out of line. Complain to his regional rep about the high pressure sales tactic.

[doylerl]

I figured the same. Whatever. I went ahead and replaced every part of the ignition system other than the ignition switch itself. I believe what that jumper earlier was for was to bypass the switch though. It appears it HAS to be the module or pick-up coil inside the disty, correct? I am at a loss. FWIW, the module on the refurbished disty is an ORIGINAL MITSUBISHI part! How can they sell a part as refurbished when using 20+ year old parts that are not repairable?

[worfdog]

I bought a new rebuilt dist. for a 88 Festy a few years back and the module was bad, it was a Beck Arney unit, took it back to the parts store and they honored the warranty, put next one on and it worked fine.

[Festy46]

One more thing you can try. In the picture of your coil, pull the white wire off the coil on the negative side so that the only the blue wire going to the distributor is connected to the negative side of the coil. Now try to start it. If still nothing, try to take a picture of the module with the wires connected to it and post it. It might be possible that you reversed the 2 wires that have their connection very close to each other.

[Banana Bonanza]

Never had problem with module on my '89, but when I eventually do, forget OEM, I will do like I did on my Ranger and my F250, I will use one of the 70s era GM HEI modules mounted on heat sink external and run couple wires back to distributor to hook to the pickup coil. Thats what signals the module to trigger the ignition coil. That early GM module was just one of best designs out there. Heat is the big enemy of ignition modules. They are basically just a large transistor. Get them away from the engine heat and they last nearly forever and on GM modules always mount them to heat sink with heat conductive dielectric grease or computer cpu thermal paste. Never had one go bad that I've mounted on heat sink away from the engine. I've used the GM HEI module on non-computer Volvo and Datsun and Fords and dont remember what all. Cost like $16 to $20 at ANY auto parts store and always in stock. You need no balast wire or resistor when using a GM HEI module and it can fire a HEI or Ford TFI coil which has more output than stock coil. But it can fire any 12V ignition coil so can use old one if you want. This is pure scam to have to replace the whole distributor with a high dollar remanufactured one just because one component fails or to charge as much for a replacement module as for whole distributor. I ran into that with the old non-computer Volvo and Datsun electronic ignition too, big bucks for something that doesnt do anymore than the $16 GM module and usually doesnt do it as well.

[doylerl]

One more thing you can try. In the picture of your coil, pull the white wire off the coil on the negative side so that the only the blue wire going to the distributor is connected to the negative side of the coil. Now try to start it. If still nothing, try to take a picture of the module with the wires connected to it and post it. It might be possible that you reversed the 2 wires that have their connection very close to each other.

I tried disconnecting the white wire and still nothing. What does that white wire go to? Also, I asked this before, but didn't get a response. What is the blue wire from the disty for? I am running out of ideas here. I have tried bypassing the ignition switch, I have tried wiggling wires, I have unhooked the white wire from the coil, for gods sake, I have replaced the disty with a whole different refurbished one, and still NOTHING! What else is left?

[FB71]

Never had problem with module on my '89, but when I eventually do, forget OEM, I will do like I did on my Ranger and my F250, I will use one of the 70s era GM HEI modules mounted on heat sink external and run couple wires back to distributor to hook to the pickup coil. Thats what signals the module to trigger the ignition coil. That early GM module was just one of best designs out there. Heat is the big enemy of ignition modules. They are basically just a large transistor. Get them away from the engine heat and they last nearly forever and on GM modules always mount them to heat sink with heat conductive dielectric grease or computer cpu thermal paste. Never had one go bad that I've mounted on heat sink away from the engine. I've used the GM HEI module on non-computer Volvo and Datsun and Fords and dont remember what all. Cost like $16 to $20 at ANY auto parts store and always in stock. You need no balast wire or resistor when using a GM HEI module and it can fire a HEI or Ford TFI coil which has more output than stock coil. But it can fire any 12V ignition coil so can use old one if you want. This is pure scam to have to replace the whole distributor with a high dollar remanufactured one just because one component fails or to charge as much for a replacement module as for whole distributor. I ran into that with the old non-computer Volvo and Datsun electronic ignition too, big bucks for something that doesnt do anymore than the $16 GM module and usually doesnt do it as well.

can't use an HEI module. The igntion module contains the pickup coil, no way to divorce the two.

[FB71]

I tried disconnecting the white wire and still nothing. What does that white wire go to? Also, I asked this before, but didn't get a response. What is the blue wire from the disty for? I am running out of ideas here. I have tried bypassing the ignition switch, I have tried wiggling wires, I have unhooked the white wire from the coil, for gods sake, I have replaced the disty with a whole different refurbished one, and still NOTHING! What else is left?

ok, before we go on, you need to do some real diagnostics, not just replace parts and wiggle wires. Do you have access to a digital multimeter / volt-ohm meter? We need to measure some voltages. A test light will not work for this.

Also, the single blue/orange wire goes to the baro switch and ECA. It looks for a ground signal to retard the timing by a few degrees for high altitude.

Just to clarify your hook-up... The black/white wire should be connected to the coil positive. The blue wire should be connected to the coil negative. Coil positive should also have black/white wire from the vehicle harness connected to it. Coil negative should also have both a gray and a yellow/green wire connected to it. Hmmm... disconnect the yellow/green wire if you can. This is the factory tach wire. If it's shorted to ground, the coil won't fire. Also, if you have the polarity of the coil backwards, you will fry modules...?

[jmye1524]

They do come apart.

[FB71]

dumb question... have you tried disconnecting your tach wire\? I've seen aftermarket tachs cause this type of issue...

[FB71]

They do come apart.

??? the two in my possession don't look like that. What is the manufacturer? I have a Hitachi and a NipponDenso. Both are original units from an 88L and an 89 LX or L Plus auto trans.

[jmye1524]

The ignitor has a Mitsubishi logo on it( 3 triangles) with J207, and the pickup coil/stator is part # E8BZ-12A112-A from Motorcraft.

[FB71]

ND unit

[doylerl]

My tach is factory. It didn't have the wiring, so I wired it myself. I will try disconnecting the tach and see if that helps. Also, the wires are all in the correct positions. I do have access to a voltage and ohm meter. If you can tell me what wires / contacts I need to test, I can test them tomorrow. I really appreciate the help. I have been stumped with this and it's getting aggrivating.

FWIW:
My ignition module and pick-up coil are like Jmye1524's.