3rd failed ignition module?

[jmye1524]

Thinking out loud........If you did have a functional unit, ( I don't ) could you simply divorce the ignitor from the pickup coil and mount it remotely. Keeping the connections the same with a length of wire for each terminal. They have tiny spade like terminals. You could maybe prolong the life of your ignition module. Mount it on a heat sink like banana suggested.........????????

[FB71]

Thinking out loud........If you did have a functional unit, ( I don't ) could you simply divorce the ignitor from the pickup coil and mount it remotely. Keeping the connections the same with a length of wire for each terminal. They have tiny spade like terminals. You could maybe prolong the life of your ignition module. Mount it on a heat sink like banana suggested.........????????

to be honest, I don't think is as big an issue as everyone is thinking. I sold my '88L last year, still running the original module. I think replacement module quality is the issue. Cheapo Chinese 'genuine imitation' parts, like are sold at all the McParts stores, are what I suspect is the root cause of multiple failures. A new Mitsu, ND or Hitachi made replacement part shouldn't have these issues. Besides, the dizzy juts out from the side of the head, right in the airstream of the cooling fan... didn't you ever wonder why? The dizzy itself is a great heatsink, better than almost anything else you could put in there.

[jmye1524]

Doylerl.........Any luck yet?.......Hows it coming?

[Banana Bonanza]

Cheapo Chinese 'genuine imitation' parts, like are sold at all the McParts stores, are what I suspect is the root cause of multiple failures. A new Mitsu, ND or Hitachi made replacement part shouldn't have these issues.

there are a couple or three HEI clone module brands with bad rep, but most are good and I imagine most are "cheapo Chinese 'genuine imitation' parts", both good and bad. No idea if GM dealers still sell a module for that old of an application, but if they do, imagine they are made in Mexico or China or someplace like that also. Just comes in a fancy GM box and GM stamped on it.

the problem is genuine or imitation, the Festiva modules if you can find them are high dollar and many replacement ones dont seem to hold up. The HEI modules if you are real worried, just buy couple extra for $16 a piece and toss them in your glove box being sure to also keep the capsules of thermal grease.

I am still driving the 4wd Ranger and probably wont switch insurance and everything over to Festie until June. Its been a dry spring and I could probably drive Festie now on my steep (slick when wet) access road out here in boonies now, but waiting until June and reliable dry period is what I have been doing then switching back to Ranger in Nov. Anyway if nobody else tries wiring up an HEI module before then, I will. Its no big deal. Last year I replaced the vac advance with an adjustable one off a Chev V8, so it just as well have an HEI module too.... Never hurts to be using parts that are still easy to obtain and I bet there isnt a parts store in the whole country that doesnt have a four prong HEI module in stock.

I just hate seeing people get ripped off on the Festiva modules.

[doylerl]

Doylerl.........Any luck yet?.......Hows it coming?

It has been raining every chance I get to look at it. It is supposed to be sunny tomorrow and my GF has the day off, so maybe I can get some more information about it tomorrow.

[doylerl]

Ok, so I did as Banana suggested (trying an HEI module). It fired up and ran for about 30 seconds or so. It started off idling really low and rough. I gave it a little gas and it smoothed out. Sounds good right?... WRONG... after it idled back down, it just died. It now will not start at all yet again! One question I have is, the thrid wire from the original disty harness that goes to the barametric sensor(?), I have no wire for it now. Should I ground it out or do anything with it? Could this be causing the no start problem now? Thanks in advance!

[jmye1524]

What happened to the wire?

[FB71]

that blue wire goes to the PCM. The PCM controls ground on that wire, based on the BARO reading. You don't need to do anything with it. It would retard timing by 3deg at high altitude by grounding that pin on the original module thru the PCM. Uncle Fester ran with that wire disconnected for years. You have other problems that you're overlooking.

[FB71]

did you wire the module correctly? Meaning, did you get the polarity of the pickup correctly wired to the HEI module? There is a polarity, and it does matter. W pin of HEI is pickup positive, G pin is neg. Pickup pin near B and C pins of original module is positive. Connect to the W pin of HEI module. But, you still need to look more carefully at the wiring from the battery to fuse link block. My guess is that the wires in the fuse link block are heavily corroded.

[FB71]

I can still test your modules for you, if you want.

[Festy46]

Humor me on this. Hold the choke and the throttle wide open and dump a tablespoon of gas in the primary side of the carb. The primary side is the side that the throttle cable connects to. Now make sure the choke is closed and try to start it. Did it try to run at all?