still boggin

[hofficergrover]

OO ok well was just asking to see.
Good luck

[frankm201]

found a unconnected vac line that goes to the canister and i can rev it to 3000rpms not and then i jimmy rigged a plastic tube to squirt up thru the accelerator tube in the car and i can rev up to 4000rmps i sure hope im going in the right direction

[hofficergrover]

Sounds like you are i would pull it apart and let the tube sit in some sea foam.

[frankm201]

the only problem im havin wit doin that is that i dont have a gasket to replace the old one yet and i really cant afford to break this one but it seems really simple so im goig to the dealer tomorrow to see if i can just buy that gasket rather then the whole set

[frankm201]

could the problem at all come from the ignition coil. i have a MSD ignition coil and one of the people i know said her car was doin the same thing and the mech replaced the coil... could that be my problem

[JohnGunn]

After reading through this thread and learning that, in spite of having a functioning accelerator pump, your engine still bogged on acceleration, my immediate thought was that your plugs might be failing to fire correctly due to the thermal stress of that shot of cold fuel. I almost stopped to make a comment, but decided against it. That is, until I read one of your recent posts on another thread. This one.

http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/showpost.php?p=350810&postcount=18

There you revealed that you were using Bosch Platinum+4 plugs. I paid a disastrously high price for trusting a set of Bosch Fusion Ir plugs (also four electrode plugs) with less than 5,000 miles on them. As a result, I will never buy anything Bosch again.

Here is a post in which I tell that story.

http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/showpost.php?p=322642&postcount=13

I would suggest you do as I did. Get rid of the Bosch plugs no matter when they were installed and replace them with carefully gapped and torqued NGK V-Power plugs. If you do that to no effect, take them back out and save them for your next tuneup. Peace of mind at a cost of no more than an hour of your time. But the potential gain could be immense.

In addition, the technique of indexing spark plugs to improve horse power is proof enough that optimum exposure of the spark to the fuel/air mixture in the combustion chamber is critical to performance. The idea of surrounding that spark with four huge chunks of metal can only be the result of a design process dominated by marketing considerations. I'm sure many people, I used to be one of those, thought two electrodes were twice as good as one and four were twice as good as two.

NGK must have their marketing department in check. All their plugs have only a single electrode. Also true of Denso plugs, I think.

John Gunn
Coronado, CA

[frankm201]

thanks

[frankm201]

well i was on the way to rip my carb apart and to get to the accel pump when i noticed that the hose on the back of the carb was broken so replaced it and it runs...yay.

another problem it idles at like 2500rpms and i dont know h0w to drop it and stay on.. i have tried the timing, accelerator cable, and airfuel knob. either stays really high or boggs and dies when my foots not on the gas what am i missing?

please help....again

[frankm201]

P.S. changed the spark plugs from bosch plat 4s to NGK v-powers not sure if that did anything??

[JohnGunn]

another problem it idles at like 2500rpms and i dont know h0w to drop it and stay on.. i have tried the timing, accelerator cable, and airfuel knob. either stays really high or boggs and dies when my foots not on the gas what am i missing?

I've never worked on or even looked closely at a carbureted Festiva, but I do have a Haynes manual and it does talk about them. It says there is an adjusting screw "located next to the throttle lever. This screw changes the amount the throttle plate is held open by the throttle linkage."

I take that to mean that all you have to do to set the idle speed is find the exact opening of the throttle plate that causes the engine to idle at 700 RPM. If you close it all the way, the engine dies. If you open it too far the speed will be too high. For you to get an idle speed of 2500 RPM would mean the throttle plate is about half open. I would doubt that is possible only using the adjusting screw.

If you can't get the car to idle correctly using the adjusting screw, I would guess that the jets in the carburetor are blocked. When you are forced to use the accelerator pedal to keep the car running you are keeping the engine running on fuel that you are pumping out of the accelerator pump. That's not idling.

For my 1967 VW Beetle there were carburetor overhaul kits, that contained all the gaskets and rubber parts needed to disassemble and clean it. It didn't always help. Sometimes there will be some "secret" passage that cannot be cleaned and the carburetor is rendered useless. Have you tried the used carburetor you scored at the junk yard?

I would say it's time for you to define a single problem and stick with it until it is solved. Let's make that problem your idle speed. If you are unable to control it using the adjusting screw alone, you can either clean the carburetor or replace it with another one. I would suggest the latter.

John Gunn
Coronado, CA

[frankm201]

ok thanks

[bravekozak]

from what I remember

I had an 89 carby. I disconnected something and the idle went high and stayed high until I shut the engine off. The computer controls the feedback carb. If one signal is out of whack, it will try and compensate by increasing the idle or something like that. You are a candidate for a Weber/Escort carb. Search for that thread and do it. You will be amazed and also wonder why you never did it sooner.

[zoe60]

Need to check real close for vacuum lines that have fallen off or leaking. Recently my vacuum advance hose came off while I was working on something else and my idle was way high until I found it. Good Luck!