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Timing belt... Dun Dun Dun....

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  • #16
    I've removed soft phillips head screws by first soaking with penetrating oil, then grabbing the head with a large pair of pliers (eg fencing pliers) and twisting them out. When working on the distributor which is held together with soft phillips head screws I use a pair of pliers to break the screw free before trying to remove it with a screw driver.
    Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

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    • #17
      Um, I removed those screws on the pulley with a big tight fitting phillips driver from the ratchet and socket set. Tight fitting is important, IMHO. Any looseness and the head can get stripped. Not that any of this matters if the screws are redundant as posters now indicate.
      Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

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      • #18
        Q: Why did you tighten the timing belt tensioner? Isn't it supposed to swing free? The spring provides the tension. IIRC the Haynes manual says to swing the tensioner out of the way and tighten the bolt to hold it out of the way while you swap the belts, then loosen the bolt to let the spring provide the required amount of tension in the belt while the engine is running.
        Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

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        • #19
          no spring.. no one sells them either.. http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...464#post226620

          and i have a new problem, i managed to snap the head off one of three bolts holding the water pump pulley on, and the other two start to back out without the third. i think my timing is off one tooth but thats the least of my concerns right now

          Originally posted by WmWatt View Post
          Um, I removed those screws on the pulley with a big tight fitting phillips driver from the ratchet and socket set. Tight fitting is important, IMHO. Any looseness and the head can get stripped. Not that any of this matters if the screws are redundant as posters now indicate. :icon_smile:
          i have discovered what you all mean, they are just there to help with reassembly IMO. i got them out with a small pair of vise grips, after i realized that the spacer fits over the screws, and is not secured by the screws
          Last edited by MTec007; 08-02-2010, 11:05 AM.

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          • #20
            New water pump or take it off and extract the broken bolt.
            91GL BP/F3A with boost
            13.79 @ 100, 2.2 60' on 8 psi and 155R12's

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            • #21
              well it IS a new water pump, 0 miles on it. and im not taking it back off, its just not going to happen. im thinking now, ill come up with a solution..i hope


              was i thinking of one of the engines available for easy motor swaps when i thought it was not non interference?
              Last edited by MTec007; 08-02-2010, 11:30 AM.

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              • #22
                okay, i got it running now. thanks for dealing with my raging attitude. sorry. im going to have to make a special trip to a fastenal, about an hour out of my way, can any one tell me what size bolt it is that i need? i know it has partial "no thread" at the end of the bolt and there is a 9 stamped on the head.. if i can get that info i can call ahead instead of maybe wasting a trip.

                on a side note, the engine has a little bit of a whine now when revving, almost like a turbo whine but not quite, but this is a stock B3, no turbo. BUT the engine is not hesitating as much like it used to.. which i like. alot. ideas? is the timing off like i suspect?

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                • #23
                  Take one of the good bolts with you?
                  91GL BP/F3A with boost
                  13.79 @ 100, 2.2 60' on 8 psi and 155R12's

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                  • #24
                    yeah but i dont want to waste the trip if they dont have one i would rather call ahead to be sure

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                    • #25
                      ok so i know its a M6x1.0 bolt with a 10mm head and its got a 6 or a 9 stamped on it. i dont know how to measure the length of the bolt, the length of the threads and the length of the part that doesn't have threads (which seems to be smaller than the rest of the bolt) since i dont have any tools that i can use for that. does any one have a way to get those measurements?

                      edit: using that information i got this:
                      im going to replace all 3 with the same bolt from fastenal since they said they wont have a socket head but only an allen wrench head. i think it will work as long as they have the right length
                      Last edited by MTec007; 08-02-2010, 02:05 PM.

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                      • #26
                        FWIW, you can get a Timing Belt Component Kit from Autozone that comes with the missing spring. Tho, it sounds like you have gone beyond that at this point.

                        Dumb thieves go to prison, smart ones go to work for the Government.

                        1988 L - 232K miles Batstiva
                        1989 L - 247K miles Slick
                        1990 L - 281K miles Orphan Annie
                        Let the hoarding begin!! :mrgreen:

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                        • #27
                          i can always get another spring and put it on but im not spending the money they want for the kit, i have one (old) tensioner that is in good condition and a brand new tensioner. rock auto has a kit with a spring too, but not just a spring by itself. went to fastenal and got 3 8.8 replacement bolts that were a tab bit shorter, since they didnt have any bolts that were tapered off at the end in that size. works fine and the car is back on the road

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