Bad RF wheel bearings? Wheel won't come off!

[DAve]

I got a 1993 Festiva GL MT in 97 because it was cheap to insure and cheap to drive. With 120k on the odometer it has been the most reliable car I have ever owned (the kids call it the "Mighty Mighty Festiva").

I have a case of loose wheel bearings on the right front, when I went to change them I pulled the lug nuts off first and the wheel would not come off. I tapped with a wood block, retorqued the lugs and removed them, soaked the lugs in MMO(Marvel Mystery Oil, it's what was handy), no budge. I then tried to remove the rotor, took off the axle nut, no budge.

Now I am scared. I've rebuilt motors, fixed my own cars for years, but I have never run across this before. Anyone got a good idea?

Thanks,

DAve

P.S. Great website, nice to know I am not the only one who likes Festivas.

[Tim]

Re: Bad RF wheel bearings? Wheel won't come off!

Had the same sticky wheel problem; WD-40 and a hammer got the wheel off. Squirt the WD-40 in the space where you took the bolts off and let it soak in, and then attack the wheel with the hammer.


Here's more info about the problem:

http://www.fordfestiva.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3935

Regards,

Tim

[DAve]

Thank you, at least I know I'm not up against something new. I'll take a day to let it soak. It's sunny outside ;^)

DAve

[Tim]

Glad I could help!

Welcome aboard!


Regards,

Tim

[mechanicaldj]

you either have a Hub Tamer or have a press to service the wheel bearing on the front or you just might get into trouble.

[packrat427]

When I went to replace my wheels I sprayed WD-40 on the 12"steelies and a hammer was not enough ,I seriously had to use a sledge quite a bit and very hard to get them loose, I was not going to use them again.

[Tim]

When I went to replace my wheels I sprayed WD-40 on the 12"steelies and a hammer was not enough ,I seriously had to use a sledge quite a bit and very hard to get them loose, I was not going to use them again.

I had to use a lot of force as well, but the WD-40 made a big difference. I managed to get the wheels off without damaging them though.


Regards,

Tim

[DAve]

Hub Tamer? I have a press if needed. I tried to get the DIY online at Autozone and they want five bucks for instructions, I need a new parts store.

So no manual, no illustrated instructions, I'll get it off first and then see what it will take to change them. I've made harder repairs in an unheated garage ;^)

Thanks,

DAve

[FB71]

loosen the lugs (leave at least one partially threaded, trust me) and smack the inside of the wheel with a sledge. This is standard procedure for lots of vehicles, unfortunately. Especially if you like in the 'Rust Belt'.

[DAve]

loosen the lugs (leave at least one partially threaded, trust me) and smack the inside of the wheel with a sledge. This is standard procedure for lots of vehicles, unfortunately. Especially if you like in the 'Rust Belt'.

Yep, that is what I did. Overnight soak, a wood block on the inside of the rim and a 5 pound sledge, and it is off. Now I am working to get the hub removed. I have .025 play at the top edge of the rotor. Bearings at the very least are really bad. Trying to get the hub off next, (wondering why I have never bought a pickle fork or a ball joint puller).

Any good way to stop this sticking? A recommended anti-seize? On the flightline (14 years as a USAF mechanic) we used a lot of Milk of Magnesia for high temp, corrosion prone threads and surfaces like afterburners. I imagine it would wash off the hub though.

DAve

[FB71]

zoomie, huh? what did you work on? I had plenty of exposure to C130s and A10s. what stations? Sorry, didn't mean to hijack the thread.

I use sPermatex antisieze. works just fine.

[DAve]

64th FTW, Luboock Texas. Worked T-37 and T-38, then went to work for Lockheed and worked T-1a. No jokes about trainers, we routinely turned and burned the entire fleet 3 times day. Thats over 450 sorties, per day, 6 days a week. I miss it, damn cost cutting closed the base.

I've got some moly based stuff antisieze, I'll give it a try.

Thanks,

DAve

[FB71]

moly based should work great. T-37s! (Tweets!)

no jokes about trainers from me. the T-38s at Sheppard were wicked fun.

we had A-37s (Dragonflys) in the 135th TFG (Baltimore, MDANG) before we got the A-10s. Flying Tadpoles to flying Warthogs! but ya gotta love that cannon! GE GAU-8 30mm Electric Rotary Cannon. 7 barrels, 3200revs pm, over 22,000 rounds per minute! oh, what fun it was.....

[DAve]

Ahh someone who knows what a tweet is. Gotta love them tweets, driver education vehicles of the sky. Some of the things I saw student pilots (pronounced 'pie - lot' with a long oh ;^) do to a tweet, and they kept flying, tough ol' birds. When the movie Top Gun came out, our birds took a beating.

DAve

[wadswort]

Wheel bearings replacement

I just did mine on both sides. you will probably need an arbor press and a bearing splitter. Buy that from an auto parts store in the OTC or Armstrong brand tool line for about 50 bucks. Had to make some press plugs to get every thing to press straight. Also, there is a tricky bearing preload procedure. You may have to to shim the preload spacer for new bearings. I had to use .001" on one side and .002" on the other. Contact FB71 via email. He has the full procedure. It's important you follow it to the letter!