Cooling system issues

[LoneManWolf]

Well here goes
i went out for a drive today
check engine light came on then about 30 seconds later engine temp gauge shot up from 1/3 where it usually is to the H
cut it off and popped the hood the coolant was just boiling and overflowing
checked the fan and it wasn't working
had power to the fan itself
someone sent me a pm to check a sensor or something just to the right of the last plug
unplugged that and the fan came on
cut it off and went inside and came back out a few mins later to check something else and turned the car on the fan didn't come on with the plug unplugged
so at this point what do i need to check now?

[billfrank85]

Things to check:
What trouble code your computer is throwing.

Cooling fan relay (On left/driver front fender panel, near headlight.)

Cooling fan switch (One of the sensors in the thermostat housing.)

[LoneManWolf]

yes but the problem is i don't know HOW to check those
and i have no way to find out what code it is putting out b/c the check engine light only comes on when the car overheats
which i'd rather it not do again

[Pu241]

Computer stores the trouble code.
It can be accessed without even starting the car.
Procedure can be posted if you need it or a Ford manual is recommended as a handy reference.

[LoneManWolf]

I'm thinking about just wiring the fan to a toggle switch at this point
no idea why it has to be so complicated in the first place lol

[Pu241]

That might work till you forget to shut off the fan and drain the battery, unless you wire it into a powered circuit when the car is running.

It's not really that complicated, and it is so that if there is a sensor failure it fails on so you do not suffer the consequences of a overheated engine, such as a warped head.

[LoneManWolf]

well i have no idea about all these relays and sensors and random other stuff
all i know is when i unplug and plug the sensor wire there is a loud clicking noise coming from the relay
does that help with diagnosis?

[billfrank85]

On the rear left (driver's) side of engine compartment, you'll see a few female connectors hanging around the brake booster. You want the one that's by itself, should be a yellow & green wire. Take a jumper wire and run it to ground...all of this is done with the ignition off. Once connector is grounded, turn key to "on" position (don't start) and watch the check engine light. It will blink depending on what code is set.

Example: 9 quick flashes = Code 09

or

One flash, pause, two flashes = Code 12

There will be an even longer pause between different codes.

Hope this helps.

- Will

[LoneManWolf]

I believe the only reason the engine light was on was the car was overheating
i tried what you said and it didn't flash at all
i also tried to ohm out the relay but not sure i did it right
if i did then according to the manual it's a bad relay
really not sure to be honest
at this point i don't even care gonna park the car for now and say hell with it

[LoneManWolf]

Well seeing as i can't edit...
had someone come over and retested the relay and apparently it's good
at this point i don't know what to believe
according to what my haynes manual said the relay tested bad
then it tested good
i really have no idea and am not putting more money into this car right now
will be discussing with my mom what to do with it at this point we are considering putting it up for sale
if i do i'll put a link to it here

[WmWatt]

the overheating may not be caused by a non-functioning fan. you could check some other things, like the water pump, thermostat, and rad. once the engine warms up the thermostat should open allowing water to circulate and that should cause the bottom hose on the rad to warm up. if that hose doesn't warm up there is a problem prohibiting the coolant from circulating.

[billfrank85]

Once the engine reaches "normal operating temperatures" -- squeeze the top radiator hose going into the thermostat housing enough to slow down or stop the flow of coolant, then let go and see if you can feel a sudden surge of movement...or see if there is a huge temperature difference between the top and bottom radiator hose.