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  • Cooling system issues

    Well here goes
    i went out for a drive today
    check engine light came on then about 30 seconds later engine temp gauge shot up from 1/3 where it usually is to the H
    cut it off and popped the hood the coolant was just boiling and overflowing
    checked the fan and it wasn't working
    had power to the fan itself
    someone sent me a pm to check a sensor or something just to the right of the last plug
    unplugged that and the fan came on
    cut it off and went inside and came back out a few mins later to check something else and turned the car on the fan didn't come on with the plug unplugged
    so at this point what do i need to check now?

  • #2
    Things to check:
    What trouble code your computer is throwing.

    Cooling fan relay (On left/driver front fender panel, near headlight.)

    Cooling fan switch (One of the sensors in the thermostat housing.)
    http://www.slashnerd.com

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    • #3
      yes but the problem is i don't know HOW to check those
      and i have no way to find out what code it is putting out b/c the check engine light only comes on when the car overheats
      which i'd rather it not do again

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      • #4
        Computer stores the trouble code.
        It can be accessed without even starting the car.
        Procedure can be posted if you need it or a Ford manual is recommended as a handy reference.
        '93 Blue 5spd 230K(down for clutch and overall maintanence)
        '93 White B6 swap thanks to Skeeters Keeper
        '92 Aqua parts Car
        '93 Turquoise 5spd 137K
        '90 White LX Thanks to FB71

        "Your God of repentance will not save you.
        Your holy ghost will not save you.
        Your God plutonium will not save you.
        In fact...
        ...You will not be saved!"

        Prince of Darkness -1987

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        • #5
          I'm thinking about just wiring the fan to a toggle switch at this point
          no idea why it has to be so complicated in the first place lol

          Comment


          • #6
            That might work till you forget to shut off the fan and drain the battery, unless you wire it into a powered circuit when the car is running.

            It's not really that complicated, and it is so that if there is a sensor failure it fails on so you do not suffer the consequences of a overheated engine, such as a warped head.
            '93 Blue 5spd 230K(down for clutch and overall maintanence)
            '93 White B6 swap thanks to Skeeters Keeper
            '92 Aqua parts Car
            '93 Turquoise 5spd 137K
            '90 White LX Thanks to FB71

            "Your God of repentance will not save you.
            Your holy ghost will not save you.
            Your God plutonium will not save you.
            In fact...
            ...You will not be saved!"

            Prince of Darkness -1987

            Comment


            • #7
              well i have no idea about all these relays and sensors and random other stuff
              all i know is when i unplug and plug the sensor wire there is a loud clicking noise coming from the relay
              does that help with diagnosis?

              Comment


              • #8
                On the rear left (driver's) side of engine compartment, you'll see a few female connectors hanging around the brake booster. You want the one that's by itself, should be a yellow & green wire. Take a jumper wire and run it to ground...all of this is done with the ignition off. Once connector is grounded, turn key to "on" position (don't start) and watch the check engine light. It will blink depending on what code is set.

                Example: 9 quick flashes = Code 09

                or

                One flash, pause, two flashes = Code 12

                There will be an even longer pause between different codes.

                Hope this helps.

                - Will
                http://www.slashnerd.com

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                • #9
                  I believe the only reason the engine light was on was the car was overheating
                  i tried what you said and it didn't flash at all
                  i also tried to ohm out the relay but not sure i did it right
                  if i did then according to the manual it's a bad relay
                  really not sure to be honest
                  at this point i don't even care gonna park the car for now and say hell with it

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Well seeing as i can't edit...
                    had someone come over and retested the relay and apparently it's good
                    at this point i don't know what to believe
                    according to what my haynes manual said the relay tested bad
                    then it tested good
                    i really have no idea and am not putting more money into this car right now
                    will be discussing with my mom what to do with it at this point we are considering putting it up for sale
                    if i do i'll put a link to it here

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      the overheating may not be caused by a non-functioning fan. you could check some other things, like the water pump, thermostat, and rad. once the engine warms up the thermostat should open allowing water to circulate and that should cause the bottom hose on the rad to warm up. if that hose doesn't warm up there is a problem prohibiting the coolant from circulating.
                      Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

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                      • #12
                        Once the engine reaches "normal operating temperatures" -- squeeze the top radiator hose going into the thermostat housing enough to slow down or stop the flow of coolant, then let go and see if you can feel a sudden surge of movement...or see if there is a huge temperature difference between the top and bottom radiator hose.
                        http://www.slashnerd.com

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