SPANK is up and running again! ROUGH

[doylerl]

But another danger is the house currents 60 hertz frequency which if passed across/through the heart can stop it.
That is a bad thing.

Says who... lol... yea, I just figured it would be more like a 60K volt stun gun, which does hurt... trust me. I didn't realize static was that high of a charge either. Kinda scary when you think about it.

[doylerl]

OK, so I went out there today to fire it up and check for fire by pulling the plug wires. Well, it started up and was idleing very low (400rpm?). So I gave it a little gas and it died. Ok, so I will just start it again and let it work itself out. Now I have nothing once again like it burnt the ign. module out again! The tach needle barely moves and it wont start!

[doylerl]

I am now wondering about the ignition switch. It is the ONLY part of the ignition system I have not replaced. Is there a way to test it? I am assuming there should be 12+ when switched to run and start on the wire going to the positive side of the coil, and a ground on the one going to the negative side of the coil only when the switch is in the off position. Is this a valid way to test it, or is there some other way? Thanks in advance.

[1988redfordfestiva]

First pull all the plugs out and do a compression test something is oddly wrong then check each spark plug itself to check for spark then you should know either if you have low compression or either bad plugs and wires.

[microflea]

I would be sure you have the plug wires right.I had a chevy nova(Corolla) that did the same thing and it turned out that 2 of the wires were crossed.It ran really funny,but it did run.it would idle ok,get rough as I revved it higher,then smooth out.It was hard to start on occaision,but most of the time it fired right up.Your car sounds like me all over again!!!

[doylerl]

Well, just for s&g's I tested the voltage at the coil with the key in the run postion. It only reads at 11.78vdc, where as when I test my battery directly, it tests at 12.4vdc. Should there be that much power lost going to the coil from the switch?

[doylerl]

UPDATE: I just went out and jumped the + wire from the coil to the + battery post, and unhooked the ignition switch - to the coil and it started! It died shortly after, but that is more than it was doing after driving it around the block the other day.

[doylerl]

Well, just for s&g's I tested the voltage at the coil with the key in the run postion. It only reads at 11.78vdc, where as when I test my battery directly, it tests at 12.4vdc. Should there be that much power lost going to the coil from the switch?

Noone has an answer to this? It seems like a major loss to me, but I am not sure what is tolerable.