Weber 32/36 carb jetting info

[Cannibeasty]

The best place to get weber jets, hands down; IMO. $4.20 for mains that go from .090 to .220, for reasonable shipping. Just ordered a .095 to replace the .135 primary I have running on my weber currently. 22 city mpg SUCKS! Round trip to oregon coast and back averaged 26mpg on 14in tires...but I digress. Here's the site:

http://www.carburetion.com/Weber/WeberDGEVParts.asp

Edit:
It also looks like they have some linkage adapters that wouldn't require fabrication...mainly

http://www.carburetion.com/Products/ProductDetails.aspx?Part=444.551-04

I dunno though. Just trying to be helpful ^_^

[nitrofarm]

Was that 26mpg Hwy with an Auto or 5 speed?

[Cannibeasty]

5 speed. I now have the .095 main jets on the primary side, w/ .135 secondary...it's bucking at partial/low throttle when cruising now...How many turns out should the mixture screw be w/ a .095 main??

[Spike]

For a properly tuned Weber, the screw should never be turned more than 1.5 to 2 full rotations out. That's what I've come to understand. I have a .100 main and got 37.3MPG last tank, driven fairly spirited.

[nitrofarm]

[QUOTE=Cannibeasty;658083]5 speed. I now have the .095 main jets on the primary side, w/ .135 secondary...it's bucking at partial/low throttle when cruising now...How many turns out should the mixture screw be w/ a .095 main??[/QUO
You need to lean it out,running waaaay to rich.You are going to wash the cyl walls with fuel.

[Fordverde]

Agree, change the 135 for a 120 or so. had worked best for me.

[Cannibeasty]

Alright, so slight edit; Immediately after I swapped in the weber, my *main* jets were .140 primary, and .145 secondary on the b3. Waaaaay too rich, but still drivable and I couldn't get new jets until just recently. Bought and installed a .95 in the primary side and dropped the secondary down to .135. No matter the mixture screw's position it was really lean and basically undrivable unless I had the choke cable almost fully engaged. Now I'm back up to a .130 prim, .135 secondary until I can get smaller primary jets (it's my daily driver so I need it *drivable*); do you guys think a .120 will work alright on the primary side? I don't want to just keep buying jets willy-nilly until it works...then I would have a ton of jets I can't use lol. Any and all information is appreciated!
On an unrelated note, what type of gasket sealant would work with older carbed cars without eating it away from the fuel/air mixture?

[nitrofarm]

Be sure at idle your throttle plate s are fully closed. If they aren't set per Weber's specs you'll never get it correct because even though the engine is idling you aren't feeding through the idle circuit. Make sense?

Sent from my USCC-C6721 using Tapatalk

[william]

You could always re drill your small jet or solder your too big jet and re drill. Would be cheaper.

[scitzz]

Reading this and thinking. Soon I hope to do a first gen b6 swap on my daughters car, and a weber. Anybody run that setup? What jets?

[drddan]

Me Me Me!!! (hand in air, jumping up and down)

First off, I wanna mention this:

I see a lot of folks try to use the mixture screw and turn it as a "run lean" or "run rich" adjustment. THIS IS NOT HOW IT WORKS!!!!!!


There, I feel better!

The mixture screw is ALWAYS 1 1/2-2 turns out! You change THE JETS to achieve this!

Then you are at the RIGHT jet size! Easy peasy!

This is the idle circuit and the MOST important circuit of the whole carb. These are usually in the .50, .55, .60 range and are on the OUTSIDE of the carb. Another easy peasy!

Each engine, and each person's driving style is different, so you really should have several size jets to work with, to adjust what you want from that carb.

Cannibeasty ...a .120 should work, and maybe a .125 primary and .120 secondary, but also, look at the ^^^ idle circuit jets.

You don't need to add a lot of gas for secondary, just a little more. I seem to get the best overall drivability with a slightly smaller secondary

The jets are available on ebay for about $5 each. Cheap, and easier than drilling, IMO

I've had a Weber on both B3 and B6 engines. Both ran great.

scitzz .... B6 .... start with the stock size most Weber's come with. Me, i'd have .145 primary and .140 secondary with the B6. Good starting point.

As mentioned above, The mixture screw is self- diagnosing, always use the jets to get the 1 1/2- 2 turn out on the mix screw, and the engine should run good.

I could go on and on ....about the air correction jets, the emulsion tubes, the pump jets ...etc ...but that's another day!





BTW .... I RULE THIS THREAD!!!! :mrgreen:

[drddan]

And just for clarification, at the beginning of this thread, I was running a B3.
Now a B6 has been planted in it.

The one thing that is BAD, is the dang B3 intake that has to be used with the B6/Weber!!!!!!! Man, I actually hate it!!!

The B3 intake, blows air/fuel out the rear of the intake!! *$&$*$!! The A/F has to make 2- 90 degree turns, just to get headed towards the engine! What were they thinking!

It is the worst designed intake I have ever seen .... Really!

I have tried and tried to get an original B6 carb intake, to no avail!!! Nice vee shape with runners facing the engine, so the A/F is directed straight towards the engine.

Everybody that wants a Weber swap, should PM .... Rocketman .... and get him to make us some intakes!!!