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  • #31
    top and bottom bulbs in the red, no orange

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    • #32
      Most excellent, thanks. So orange corners in the front and red (big + small bulbs) in the back. Only one filament in the 1157 bulb glows, since the other filament is wired to the stop switch. Can anyone with an 89 Festiva please remove their TAIL fuse and place their multimeter across both contacts, turn on their parking lights and take a current reading? I am looking for less than 10 Amps.

      I am bench testing. I laughed when I turned a spare stalk on to probe which fuse protected the circuit. The handle is on the left and the connector is on the top right. Totally logical. The one plug I can't fit in, because of an extra blade in the combination switch. The parking light terminals have so much dirt and corrosion they almost didn't respond to my multimeter when I probed from parking light to parking light. I wonder how difficult it would be to clean them up? The lights are in the car 30 miles away, I just have the 1989 harness.
      Last edited by bravekozak; 07-03-2013, 09:20 PM.

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      • #33
        I checked my cruise combination switch last night and it also has six terminals on the lamps connector. The only way for the wiring harness to fit was to physically remove the plastic terminal filler. The 89 Festiva lamps connector only has five terminals. Does amyone happen to know what the extra terminal in the replacement combination switches is for? I just want to make sure the lights work when I hook it back up.
        Last edited by bravekozak; 07-15-2013, 08:28 AM.

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        • #34
          ground terminals are used in Festivas. The terminal size is .170"
          Can anyone please help me locate a source to buy some, so that I can reterminate the corroded ones? They are not brass.
          Last edited by eurotiva; 11-15-2013, 06:10 PM.

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          • #35
            Here is how I took care of the problem with oxidation of the brass terminals in the fusible link connector. Six second Dremel wire wheel for each terminal and then push them back in again.
            Last edited by bravekozak; 08-02-2013, 12:04 AM.

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            • #36
              I would just like to confirm that the 89 Festiva carb does not have a headlamp relay. Correct?

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              • #37
                Festiva FCK ground terminals are proprietary. They are easily removed from the six terminal ground connectors. The terminals are steel since they are located inside the cabin. If you are adding new grounds or reterminating old ones, I highly recommend that you use quarter inch brass spade terminals. I also recommend using gang grounds from Mazda MPVs. I used 2 sq mm female .250" brass Yazaki terminals for my grounds.
                Last edited by bravekozak; 10-26-2013, 05:22 PM.

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                • #38
                  With one burned out bulb, the draw is 10.16 Amps for the parking lights. The unexpected surprise is the cluster lights + the buzzer. I wonder if I can leave out the last two?

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                  • #39
                    It amazes me how much effort you put into your car. Every detail is top notch spare no expense best of the best. Do you think this car will be at Ohiosteva next year or are you bringing something else?
                    2008 Kia Rio- new beater
                    1987 F-150- revived and CLEAN!!!
                    1987 Suzuki Dual Sport- fun beater bike
                    1993 Festiva- Fiona, DD
                    1997 Aspire- Peaspire, Refurb'd, sold
                    1997 Aspire- Babyspire, DD
                    1994 Aspire - Project Kiazord
                    1994 Aspire- Crustyspire, RIP



                    "If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"

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                    • #40
                      I am intending to "cruise" down to Ohiostiva in it (along with a whole bunch of parts for sale in the back).

                      The reason I was asking about the current draw is for the Viper light flash. I was trying to determine if I could get away without having to install an extra relay (trying to spare the expense). I was amused to hear the buzzer in the instrument cluster sound when I touched the positive battery pole with my multimeter probe.
                      Last edited by bravekozak; 11-15-2013, 06:00 PM.

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                      • #41
                        I am not going to cruise anywhere until I resolve a major problem with my wiring.
                        I need help with power mirrors.
                        I presume no power should flow through the power mirror switch until it is pressed. Can someone please confirm that with key in run?

                        Also, please tell me what the colors of the mirror wires are looking from behind the mirror connector with the retainer clip up?

                        Both tests would require removing the driver's power mirror, probing with a test light, and recording the wire colors. Thanks.

                        Unfortunately, I show two hot wires at my mirror connector.
                        When I plugged in the mirror, bye bye dome light, remote power locks (note: manual power lock switch still works), radio and dash clock. I sure hope I didn't fry anything including my Viper by cross-wiring.

                        From what I can determine with my multimeter:

                        BK/R - L/H up
                        LG/BK - L/H down
                        BL/R - L/H left
                        BR - L/H right
                        BK/R - R/H up
                        LG - R/H down
                        BL/R - R/H left
                        LG/R - R/H right
                        Last edited by bravekozak; 05-22-2014, 08:05 PM.

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                        • #42
                          Put them stockers back in and make it down saturday!!!!
                          1993 Festiva L "Wendy" BP n' stuff
                          2013 Mazdaspeed 3 "The Kraken" -Stock.

                          Dave Forget

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                          • #43
                            I'm going to the take left door panel off Trixie tomorrow to put a new vapor barrier behind it. I will do some testing on the power mirror wires and
                            let you know what I find out. The right door panel is still off. Hope you find the problem soon. It will probably be afternoon before I post.
                            I have different wire harnesses in each door so my wire colors may be different. I will take some pictures too.

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                            • #44
                              It's the wire colors coming from the mirror that I am interested in (not the wires going to the mirror) and also if there are no hot wires in the opposite connector coming from the power mirror switch. Thanks 1990new for your trouble.
                              I have a bad feeling that I will have to remove my dash again.
                              Last edited by bravekozak; 05-22-2014, 08:48 PM.

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                              • #45
                                My left mirror wire connections would give you nightmares...but they work.

                                My Left Door Power Mirror on Trixie.


                                Door Harness..........To Pigtail....................... To Mirror


                                Green/Black Stripe......Yellow..........................Black
                                Brown.........................Black............... ......White/Black Stripe
                                Brown/Black Stripe..... Brown....................Green/Red Stripe


                                None of the wires have power unless the mirror control buttons are pushed and switch must at least be
                                to accessory or on.


                                I tested all three wires with a multimeter Red lead to one wire at a time and Black lead to ground.
                                Ever wire had power at some point depending on which of the 4 directional buttons were pushed.


                                I also tested all three wires alternately with red lead to one and black lead to another.


                                Depending on which of the 4 buttons were pushed, all had power sometimes positive, and
                                sometimes negative.

                                Sorry but I didn't attempt to associate the colors with the direction...It already gave me a headache getting this far.

                                Hope this helps.

                                I will upload pictures of the harness and pigtail connection to the photo bucket power window folder. Also will add pictures of my new vapor barrier which turned out great.
                                Last edited by 1990new; 05-23-2014, 12:06 PM.

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