electrical problems

[bravekozak]

Super thanks. I will digest this info immediately.
Correction to post #41 BK/R should read BL/R. Sorry for any confusion this may have caused.

[1990new]

Just updated... had Red with green strip at mirror...but should be green with red stripe.
http://s1222.photobucket.com/user/1990new/slideshow/1990new%20Power%20Window%20Install

[bravekozak]

My previous problem with the power mirror wiring has been resolved. I had to reposition the terminals in the RX-7 switch.


I have an interesting problem. I am not sure of the cause. The dash clock has reset itself on two occassions at random times, while running. Any ideas as to what could cause it to do so?
The Honda guys say it might be because of the radio sucking juice on the memory wire.

[bravekozak]

O.K. I figured out why the green wire on the A/C cooling fan connector is missing. I threw it out because it went to the ECA. I have no ECA. More specifically, it went to pin 3B. I tried to find out what it did but came up empty. Does anynody know what the ECA does with the signal. Does it ground? Is it necessary to operate the cooling fan? I don't have any freon in my system yet. I really don't want to test jump the refrigerant pressure switch and damage anything. I also don't want to spend a lot of money filling up the system, only to find out it doesn't work. Do you think it will work if I just hook up the yellow/red wire by itself? Is the cooling fan supposed come on immediately when the A/C button is pressed? The shop manual is wrong. It shows black/white going to pin 3B. The factory electrical schematic shows green going from the connector near the cooling fan to pin 3B. Please help.

[crazyrog17]

I think that's an idle up signal to compensate for the compressor load

[bravekozak]

I think you are right. They just used the two wires in the connector for two separate functions. I think the green wire for the ECA signal is spliced into the black/white wire somewhere inside the A/C wiring harness. I am not going to open it up to find out. I have a different method for idle up (vacuum pull), without the ECA (using a relay instead). I am willing to bet if if I just terminate the single yellow/red wire, it will work. It will join the cooling fan to A/C cooling fan relay #3 which grounds when the solenoid is energized by juice flowing through the refrigerant pressure switch, then through the A/C control amplifier, then through A/C relay #2 and then to it. Really simple. Thanks for your help. I should sleep much better tonight.

[bravekozak]

Here is a link showing the proper crimping for both open and closed barrel terminals.

[bravekozak]

I made this short video to demonstrate how easy it is to replace or relocate terminals in connectors.

[bravekozak]

I wanted to test the radio I'm selling, so I hooked it up to a spare '89 wiring harness on the kitchen floor. After fiddling with the connections a little, jumping the white to the blue/red to simulate the key on, the light came on and i scanned through the stations. After I brought a speaker up from the basement and plugged it in, no light. After trying to determine the source for no juice, I traced it back to the fuse link block. The white brass terminal was so corroded, it crumbled off in my fingers. I would have to say that, based on that experience, any wiggling of the fusible link terminals could result in discontinuity. Luckily, I have tanged replacement terminals from easternbeaver.com. Be careful with the fuse link terminals.
Other problem connectors are the ones to the starter motor and the turn signal lights. I extracted, wire wheeled and reterminated where necessary all of the ones on my Festiva.

[Movin]

Brave that link is awesome!! Trying to train nubes; they think we are picking on them! My first rule of electrical diagnosis is to look where somebody was working last. When I find it most of the time it is some weak wristed crimp squeezing, the problem one is apart and all the others slide apart with a light tug.

[bravekozak]

Help! I picked up my SAAB interior lighting time delay relay (normally open).
The relay has four terminals T, 31, 15, 30.
The SAAB wiring diagram shows 1 (hot at all times), 2 (ground), 4 (from interior light switch), 5 (hot in start or run).
There isn't a position where there is no continuity on interior light circuit.
Does anyone have any ideas why?
Is T supposed to be ground?

[bravekozak]

For anyone experiencing problems with their front turn signals or front parking lights, it may be a good idea to pop the terminals out of the cheap non-waterproof connectors and decide if they can be cleaned up or just replaced. Guess what I prefer to do. Make sure you buy the tanged ones.

[frogman]

Brave,
Do you have a source for the terminal kit and plastic connectors? I have not seen an assortment kit of brass connectors for a long time.

[bravekozak]

frogman, I buy my stuff from easternbeaver.com
$20 minimum order. New connectors, new terminals. You will need a crimper.
Most of the Festiva connectors are .250 tangless, except some of the tanged ones in the engine compartment.

[frogman]

Thanks for the quick reply. Nice one man operation site. Loved the pictures of his pick-up. I was stationed in Japan and had the van version. Was very close to the same size as a Festiva.