I'm still trying to fix my rough idle/stalling issues. And I wanted to check with you before I did anything that could make it worse.
Which way do I turn the cogged white screw to increase the idle speed?. Do I turn the screw IN (clockwise), or do I turn the screw OUT (counterclockwise) to increase the idle speed?
The dist cap and rotor appear to be original, and I plan on replacing them. After all they are 22 years old, and have 125K miles on them. Could corrosion and/or crud on the dist cap and rotor contacts cause a poor idle and stalling?
I read somewhere that a stuck EGR valve can cause a poor idle and stalling. I disconnected the EGR vacuum line, and put vacuum on the EGR valve. It held vacuum just fine. When I released the vacuum I could feel (and hear) the EGR valve functioning. The rubber diaphragm moved freely up/down when I applied/released vacuum. So it appears that the EGR valve is OK.
I left the EGR valve disconnected, and plugged the vacuum line that feeds it with a screw. My wife then took her Festy for a drive. She said that it only stalled one time on her, and she thought that was because she didn't downshift soon enough when coming to a stop. It appears that disconnecting the EGR valve and plugging the vacuum line actually made it idle more smoothly (still not what I want though), and it didn't stall on her when she took it for a drive. For now, I've left the EGR valve disconnected. Do you have any ideas on what I need to check? Do I have a problem somewhere else in the EGR system or the vacuum lines? I checked all the vacuum lines that I can see, and saw nothing amiss.
Thanks for any guidance you can give me, As a first-time Festy owner, I hope I'm not overlooking something obvious.
Tom
Which way do I turn the cogged white screw to increase the idle speed?. Do I turn the screw IN (clockwise), or do I turn the screw OUT (counterclockwise) to increase the idle speed?
The dist cap and rotor appear to be original, and I plan on replacing them. After all they are 22 years old, and have 125K miles on them. Could corrosion and/or crud on the dist cap and rotor contacts cause a poor idle and stalling?
I read somewhere that a stuck EGR valve can cause a poor idle and stalling. I disconnected the EGR vacuum line, and put vacuum on the EGR valve. It held vacuum just fine. When I released the vacuum I could feel (and hear) the EGR valve functioning. The rubber diaphragm moved freely up/down when I applied/released vacuum. So it appears that the EGR valve is OK.
I left the EGR valve disconnected, and plugged the vacuum line that feeds it with a screw. My wife then took her Festy for a drive. She said that it only stalled one time on her, and she thought that was because she didn't downshift soon enough when coming to a stop. It appears that disconnecting the EGR valve and plugging the vacuum line actually made it idle more smoothly (still not what I want though), and it didn't stall on her when she took it for a drive. For now, I've left the EGR valve disconnected. Do you have any ideas on what I need to check? Do I have a problem somewhere else in the EGR system or the vacuum lines? I checked all the vacuum lines that I can see, and saw nothing amiss.
Thanks for any guidance you can give me, As a first-time Festy owner, I hope I'm not overlooking something obvious.
Tom
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