Master Cylinder Hatred

[sketchman]

Not gotten to mess with it yet. I might get to work on it tomorrow.

[GenevaDirt]

stupid question....you are putting the cap on the master cylinder when you are bleeding the brakes....right?

[sketchman]

No. I know that it is standard to do that, but I've never done it and never had this problem before.

[Safety Guy]

I've never put the cap on when bleeding brakes either and I've never had a problem. I leave the cap off to make it quicker to add more fluid to the reservoir.

Karl

[batstiva]

Hmmm, you've got me curious now. I just swapped out Annie's MC, bled the brakes longest run to shortest run. Stops on a dime now. Better than it has in a long time. Makes me wonder how long the old MC was trying to go bad.
And I agree, tho I'm not sure on the percentage ratios either, that the pressure on the front port on the MC is greater than the back one.

And FWIW, I bled mine with the cap off of the MC.

[GenevaDirt]

well I see how everybody complains it takes so much time to bleed the brakes...I have never had this issue and I always put the cap back on in between filling. I figured that with the cap off it has no way of forcing the fluid into the lines.....letting it just pump back into the reservoir.

[sketchman]

^Autostoned's website says to bench bleed the mc before you hook it up to the system. Can't really do that with the cap on. This is when I noticed the out and back in action. Does everyone else think the mc needs bench bled or is this just Autostoned?

[Flyin4stroke]

You should always bench bleed a new mc. If it's used you may want to bench bleed to get all new fluid inside and make sure there isn't any air inside. Usually the easiest way to bench bleed is with a vice so you could leave the cap on but the master cylinder works as a plunger that only pushes one way so that's why you can do it with the cap off.

[sketchman]

See, that's the issue. It doesn't only push one way. Fluid goes out the bleeding hoses when you push the "plunger" in and goes right back in when you let it out.

[sketchman]

I must have been using too big ID hose. Got some really narrow stuff and ran it from mc to bleeder screw. Bled everything(starting from front to back) and got exactly nowhere with it. There are no bubbles coming out and I still have a mushy pedal no matter how much I bleed it. I really want to torch this thing right now.

My uncle suggested that the adjusters in the back could be not working and causing this, but I just don't see it. Something is seriously wacked, and it's just not making any sense. It feels exactly like a bad MC, but holy monkey poo, this is number 3.

[91_festy_Gl]

Your going through the same exact thing I went through except I cured my problem by bleeding the front first.

[sketchman]

I will take another chance that I have yet another bad MC and have an Aspire unit coming now. Only $32.00, so if this one doesn't do it, I don't know what's next.

[91_festy_Gl]

it'd be nice if you could make it to the meet on the 20th.

[daniel_cogar]

keep a eye on the brake lines in front of the rear drives side tire it tends to rust a hole in that spot more then anywhere else. and like Ben said try to bleed the front first, couldn't hurt.

[sketchman]

It would be nice to make it, but I work through every weekend so my schedule is the opposite of most other humans.

I have replaced both short sections of line in front of the back wheels, wheel cylinders are brand new, as well as shoes and hardware back there. I'm open to paranormal explanations at this point.