Questions on taking apart a B6

[Safety Guy]

I've taken a head off a B3 before, but I wasn't going to put it all back together! Now, however, I'm checking out and freshening up a B6 for AquaMutt--and it has to RUN after I put it back together! It's my first time so I'm a bit jittery.

I'm mainly concerned with aligning the cam, crank and distributor after taking off the head and timing belt and replacing with new belt, WP and all seals. (I won't be taking apart the head, though.) I plan to turn the crank to observe the pistons when the head is off, unless that's a bad idea.

Any suggestions on this? Is it as simple as aligning the crank and cam sprockets with the timing marks when cylinder #1 is at TDC?

I'm assuming "cylinder #1" is the closest one to the timing belt, right?

Yes, I have the Festiva shop manual and a Chilton's for 323/etc., but I suppose I could use some encouragement!!

Karl

[htchbck]

Its not biggie on setting the cam timing, its the same as doing a timing belt. Especially if you have the engine out of the car and can see all the timing marks easily. On the disty, just make sure the rotor is pointing toward the #1 plug when its at TDC on the compression stroke (which it should be already when you set the cam timing). The car will usually run (though not necessarily well) no matter where the disty is actually set as long as the rotor is in the right direction (timing will probably either retarded or advanced though). Then get out the timing light (you did remember to mark the timing mark on the crank w white paint while the motor was out of the car right?) and jumper whichever terminal it says in the chiltons and set the base timing! Not too bad at all really, especially with the book.

[Safety Guy]

Yeah, I'm going to clean up the scale & pointer areas and redo them in white, or maybe lime green.

Thanks! I really hope this engine will run. It'll be my first "swap it all" on a Festiva! Stiffer suspension, better brakes, and 19 more horsepower!! Oh yeah, and artistic body work!

Karl

[Festy46]

Make sure you get a good torque on the head bolts. Get a metric tap of the correct size and run it in and out of all the head bolt holes. Use compressed air to clean out the holes after you finish with the tap. Use a wire wheel brush and clean the head bolt threads. Apply some light oil to the threads and the washer and head of the bolts before you install them. Follow the torque instructions in your shop manual.

[Safety Guy]

Would this Craftsman tap and die set do the trick for most engine work?:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952383000P?prdNo=4&blockNo=4&blockType=G4

(Click on the set contents and it contains the listed items at the far right.)

I think the "metric hex die" in 12 X 1.50 would work to clean up wheel lug threads. Am I right? (Just getting the hang of this.)

Also, the "mm thread gauge" should tell me what I need to know about bolt and hole thread sizing, right?

Thanks,

Karl

[91_festy_Gl]

You will be alright. Just make sure the mechanical timing is in line and your good to go. At TDC make sure the rotor in the dizzy points at #1 and it should fire up and run.

[Safety Guy]

Okay, head's off! The crank bolt is not wanting to come off, but I'm soaking it with PBB and my Dad will be over tomorrow to help.

Head gasket surfaces, pistons, cylinders 2 and 3 and head all look okay to me, but if you are good at this, please advise from the following pictures!

Before head removal:



Head's off pics:





Cylinders 2 and 3:



Cylinders 1 and 2:



3 and 4:



Cont'd...

[91_festy_Gl]

Everything so far looks good to me. Doesn't look like any damage has been done. Clean it up alittle and send that head to a shop.

[Safety Guy]

Here is the underside of the head showing valves, etc:



Another view:



Here's the block with old gasket pulled off:



Old head gasket bottom:



Old head gasket top:



So far everything looks good to me, but I have absolutely no experience at this. However, when I look in the exhaust ports, the valve stems do not seem to match in carbon deposits or "oily-ness." What do you think?:







I can take more pics if necessary.

Any talented engine building people observations welcome!

Karl

[Safety Guy]

Thanks 91 festy! You really think I should send the head to get cleaned up? Or do you think it needs some kind of redoing?

Karl

[91_festy_Gl]

Well to do this like a engine builder would, first clean what you can on the head, second it should be taken to a machine shop just to check to see it its warped and so it can be resurfaced, third valve seals should be replaced. Thats just basic knowledge. I personally would do those 3 things and get it ported along with the exhaust mani and intake mani and gasket match both. Porting will wake up the engine, plus the head is already off so why not? My brother ported mine with a basic dremel tool.

Id also clean the block and prep it for some paint. Thats just what I would do. Im not sure how in depth your wanting to take this but those are the things I would do.

[bhazard]

You cant beat a hot-tanked head with a valve job and new valve stem seals.

[Safety Guy]

Hmmm, about how much would head inspection, valve job, etc. cost, and what might the turnaround time be? I really want to get this car on the road.

Karl

[bhazard]

Completely depends on the shop and how busy they are.

My b6t head... hot-tank, degreased, etc. Valve job, stem seals that I supplied, shave .010". $140 and one day, they had nothing else to do.

[91_festy_Gl]

Here we only paid 50 bucks to have the head inspected and resurfaced. We done everything else ourselves.