Questions on taking apart a B6

[Safety Guy]

Hmmm, maybe I'll call around Monday to see what's available.

A clean head would look nice with this little old exhaust header I've had sitting around for ages...





Karl

[muddevil01]

dang I have been trying to find a b6 header for a while that looks nice where did you get it at I'm so enviousdrool

[Safety Guy]

I got it from FMS from about 2005 or 2006. It fits the early B6 and fits the later ones like I have (both of mine are '94s) only with a couple repositioned mounting holes. I drilled them but one was off, so my plan to install this in Luxstiva when I did her B6/ATX swap in 2005-2006 didn't happen.

I was still going to install it in Lux when I overhaul her but maybe I'll put it in Aqua. Hmmm.

The machine shop could also redo the hole I messed up (it's off by a few mms). No shops seem to be open today, so I'll call Monday. If it's not too expensive or time consuming, I'll go for it.

Aqua is a "mutt," just a beater, but she would love an extra 10 or 12 hp, eh? That's what I'm guessing the header, valve job, mild porting and a 2" low restriction system would do. Am I in the ballpark? I could "arrange" a B8 or BP TB and matching air plenum, too.

Karl

[Festy46]

Would this Craftsman tap and die set do the trick for most engine work?:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952383000P?prdNo=4&blockNo=4&blockType=G4

(Click on the set contents and it contains the listed items at the far right.)

I think the "metric hex die" in 12 X 1.50 would work to clean up wheel lug threads. Am I right? (Just getting the hang of this.)

Also, the "mm thread gauge" should tell me what I need to know about bolt and hole thread sizing, right?

Thanks,

Karl

That would probably work, but you can save a lot of money by just getting one of the imported el-cheapo ones from a surplus store. I bought a whole set for about $20.00. You are just cleaning up existing threads. You don't need a high quality set to cut new threads.

[Safety Guy]

Gotcha. Harbor Freight it is, then. Like I need an excuse to go there!

Thanks,

Karl

[FestYboy]

carl, unless this is a full effort build, i'd really recomend using the B3 FMS header, i've found the primaries to be too large for even a built B6 head with full port/pocket job and stock valves. gasses are just too slow for normal driving (i doubt that engine will see more than 4000rpm on a regular basis). the B6 header only starts to come in at 4000 so to make use of it you'd need to build for 9000rpm. oh and once you DO install a header, have it ceramic coated first. mine was high temp painted and after 3 years is about to rot through, they NEED the ceramic coat.

[Safety Guy]

Thanks Arty. Viewing some of the several year old headers over the years, I was thinking of ceramic coating. Also, I'm really just trying to get this car through winter as my slush beater so rust-free Twinstiva doesn't have to get "salted" another winter season. Aqua is already "well salted."

I'll check on getting my head redone Monday, but if the cost in time or money is not right, then I'm popping it back on with my new head gasket. This engine had less than 90K when I pulled it.

Thanks all,

Karl

[Festy46]

If you want to save money you can do some of your own head checking. Take the rocker arms off and turn the head up side down. Pour some kerosene in each valve pocket. Check each port after a while and see if any of them are showing signs of getting wet (leaking valve). If they all stay dry, your valves are sealing good. Next clean the gasket surface of the head and get a good straight edge like a level or a large carpenters square. Take a .002" feeler gauge and try to push it under the level or square while holding it (the level or square) on the head in all different directions. If you can't get it under, you should be good to go the cheap way.

[Safety Guy]

I may do that, Festy46. Thanks.

Right now I have everything off except the oil pan. Removed all the pan bolts, but it's like it's glued to the block! I did manage to get a small chisel to pry away an inch or two from the right rear block corner area, but I'm afraid to bend the pan too much.

How does one safely remove a really stuck oil pan?

Here's the engine as it sits right now:



And a close up of where I'm working:



The area right beneath the engine stand bolt head was where I got a bit of progress.

One more semi-related question:

I can't recall how I removed the crank nose seal last time. Do I drill a small hole in the seal body and pry it out that way? I know I didn't remove the oil pump.

Thanks,

Karl

[FestYboy]

for the oil pan, it's been RTVed in so you have no option but to pry it loose (use a gasket scraper).

for the oil seal, i use mid length crooked picks (like the ones used for removing cotter pins)

like this (second from top)

[Safety Guy]

Thanks again Arty. I just was out in the garage and I made some more progress on the oil pan removal. Using paint scrapers I'm slowly "cutting" around the gasket and it should pry loose before too long.

I took my head into a shop this morning. It'll be $125 for them to clean it up, check valve sealing and true the bottom. No actual valve work for that price though. Should have it by Wed. morning just before holiday break.

I'm off to order a couple more parts from AZ down the street.

(FYI, I updated my Aqua build thread last night.)

Thanks,

Karl