Clutch shudder/slip question

[AlaskaFestivaGuy]

One of my several 1993 blue 5-speeds ...

I bought this particular Festy three years ago with 101K on it and just started driving it recently. The clutch has always "shuddered" badly on engagement, but I figured I could live with that. Now, it seems to be slipping in 3rd and higher. Example: 15% upslope in 3rd at 35mph and I floor the accelerator. RPM (per the sound) goes up, but speed remains 35, with no additional vibration.

Does the shudder on engagement indicate that I need to do serious machining, such as refacing the flywheel, at clutch replacement?

It's wet, cold, dark, and wet, and -- did I say -- wet, here in the Pacific NW for 9 months of the year, so I'm really not looking to do this myself, particularly if it requires machining. When I bought the car, the seller told me the clutch was slipping and gave me a new clutch kit. The local Ford dealer offered to do the replacement for $250 of labor if I provided the new clutch. Does that sound like a good deal if he'll honor his quote now, three years later? My search on this site shows everything from "$100" to "6.6 hours."

[leapin]

If somebody said $250 to me. I would say awesome. My time and effort in the little garage of mine is worth that much to me. I get to experiance the same wet, cold and dark as well.

[econoaddict]

Mitchell labor guide calls for 4.1hrs
Around here you would be looking at $250-$300 +/- for labor alone, pending the shop per hour rate of course.

[marinepolice03]

around here 250 isn't bad at all for a clutch to be replaced. but that's the shops in the bean fields of Illinois.

[AlaskaFestivaGuy]

So does the bad shudder (shakes the whole car) at engagement mean anything (such as warped flywheel from previous owner perhaps abusing the car), or is that just how clutches go bad before they're obviously slipping.

I've got other Festies with lots more than 106K where there's no indication (from services records that came with them) of the clutch ever having been replaced.

My 64 Volvo PV544 4-speed went over 250,000 miles of city driving and never needed a clutch. It was hydraulically actuated, so maybe that made a difference?

[TominMO]

So does the bad shudder (shakes the whole car) at engagement mean anything (such as warped flywheel from previous owner perhaps abusing the car), or is that just how clutches go bad before they're obviously slipping.

I've got other Festies with lots more than 106K where there's no indication (from services records that came with them) of the clutch ever having been replaced.

My 64 Volvo PV544 4-speed went over 250,000 miles of city driving and never needed a clutch. It was hydraulically actuated, so maybe that made a difference?

I think the flywheel needs replacing too; warped or cracked. I've had vehicles that badly needed a clutch but did not have this shudder problem. And when I had Casper, it shuddered a lot, and did have a bad flywheel.

[AlaskaFestivaGuy]

Thanks, TominMO. I think what I should do is NOT tear inito this car until I have a spare flywheel or three within reach, which I should be able to scarf from my AK engine junkpile in the spring. Thanks.

[lowriderglen]

Flywheel..

Have a machine shop grind the flywheel. I usually charge no more than $40 for that type of flywheel. DO NOT install a new clutch and pressure plate without proper grinding of the flywheel.

[denguy]

Found a new flywheel and clutch assb on ebay for 150............just have to crawl under it and do it.

[AlaskaFestivaGuy]

Lowriderglen,

Understood. That would just destroy the new clutch, worse then installing new disk brake pads bad rotors.

So I guess the flywheel unbolts easily from what can only be the end of the crankshaft, right?

[AlaskaFestivaGuy]

Well, the local Ford dealer, who a few years ago quoted me $250, now wants over $400, claiming that's because it takes 4 hours and he's raised his hourly rates. PLUS, he says that if the flywheel is bad, he wants another more than $400 for a "new" (sure, you betcha) one.

I recall a few years ago that he'd intially quoted me ridiculous pricing, then called me back on his own a few days/weeks later offering the $250 deal. So maybe he'll have hunger pains and that will happen again!

[AlaskaFestivaGuy]

Th new clutch kit I have (the guy I bought the car from a few years ago gave it to me) simply has this on the box:

W07-068
7-1/8" Ford Clutch Kit
656081
bar code # 6 - 78978 - 01252 - 5

None of this gets any useful hits with Google.

It came with one big (throwout?) bearing and one smaller one that just fits over the end of the included splined plastic tool. See photos.

Is this the (or a) proper Festy clutch kit?

[devon527]

Are we still good for Thursday? I've been researching today so I have a little background help. Did the clutch kit come with the tool to put in the throw out bearing? Or at least that's what I think my dad said the special tool was for...

[AlaskaFestivaGuy]

It's the splined plastic thing in the second photo. I'm guessing that it's used to align the "friction disk" while bolting the other part to the flywheel, "sandwiching" the friction disk between two metal surfaces by the pressure of the springs in the other part. Then, the tool may be removed and the gearbox bolted back onto the engine using the new throwout bearing.

[AlaskaFestivaGuy]

Did the clutch job in carport today.

For details, ee:

http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33582