Fuel leaking from new carb.

[brickdog2000]

http://http://www.flickr.com/photos/61913579@N03/5632956287/

[brickdog2000]

[brickdog2000]

[brickdog2000]

[brickdog2000]

Alright I cant seem to get these to show up at this moment.

[91_festy_Gl]

Is it possible to have the to carb line and to tank return line backwards? My carby seems like its not getting enough fuel pressure.

[brickdog2000]

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[brickdog2000]

[IMG]

The one that says fuel filter on the left actually goes to my fuel pump.

[brickdog2000]

I hope this helps out a little. If not and let me know so I can get better pics tomorrow.

[drddan]

So, I finally was able to get out and investigate some more today. (after having several days of rain and cold) I discovered that the fuel presure was too high as mentioned, and this is because of something I did. In my Weber swap post, I asked about a hose going into a steel line down where the charcoal canister was. I asked what to do with it, and noone responded. This IS however the fuel return line from the fuel pump! So, for those of you who have done the weber swap and removed the canister, how did you return the excess fuel to the tank? Currently, since I didn't know what it was at the time, it is capped. So, yes, my fault... but I still need advice on where to go from here and what to do with that. Thanks again everyone!

I'm trying to remember what all went where, before I did the the Weber swap, but I do know that there are no fuel lines connected to a canister. Mine is as it always was, I took some pics how it is now, maybe it will help.

The fuel return line is the small one coming out of pump, the left one in pic


It goes straight down to the metal line next to the fuel filter


A closer pic showing the metal line, and the red arrow is pointing at the fuel return line


What is the line you are holding, in your pics? Can you show where it is connected on the other end?

[Festy46]

Is it possible to have the to carb line and to tank return line backwards? My carby seems like its not getting enough fuel pressure.

The only way your car would run with the lines reversed is with a full to overflowing tank. The return line does not go to the bottom of the tank so it would not pick up ANY gas unless the tank was completely full. If you're running a stock carb, there should be a sight glass on the passenger side of the carb. Take a rag and wipe the glass clean and then take a light a look at the glass. Use your body pressed against the car to "jiggle" the car while you look at the sight glass. You should see gas sloshing around inside the carb by looking at the sight glass. If you see gas, then your carb is getting enough gas and your problem is elsewhere.

[nitrofarm]

My pump has the same, but the return line used to go to the canister, which is no longer there.
I am holding the return hose in this picture where it becomes a steel line down under the filter:


Here is where the steel line ends and becomes a rubber hose again, which was attached to the canister:


Now, I need to know where to connect this hose to to let it flow back to the tank.

I'm trying to remember what all went where, before I did the the Weber swap, but I do know that there are no fuel lines connected to a canister. Mine is as it always was, I took some pics how it is now, maybe it will help.

The fuel return line is the small one coming out of pump, the left one in pic


It goes straight down to the metal line next to the fuel filter


A closer pic showing the metal line, and the red arrow is pointing at the fuel return line


What is the line you are holding, in your pics? Can you show where it is connected on the other end?

doyler1 Are you not seeing what drddan has posted? The small line is return.It attach's directly to the pump. That small line you have your fingers on is return ALL THE WAY TO THE TANK. It doesn't have anything to do with the vapor canister. Please look at his pics.
Small line/nipple on side of pump is return to the tank not vapor canister.
Large line/nipple on side of pump next to small line is pressure to carburetor.
Large line/nipple on bottom of pump is feed from tank.
That hose you have capped is for vapors only. As soon as you fill your tank its gonna pop off from vapor pressure when the fuel warms up . But don't worry about that now.
You stated " Here is where the steel line ends and becomes a rubber hose again, which was attached to the canister " This isn't true it was never attached to your canister. Its the fuel return line. I would highly recommend that next time you disconnect any wires/hoses. You simply label them in some way (duct tape/sharpie). I still do if I know its gonna be a couple days/weeks b4 I get time to finish. Hope this helps. It shouldn't take long or cost a dime to correct. Thomas-

[nitrofarm]

How come I cant edit my posts anymore? I dont see any edit post anymore???
Anyway I just noticed apotential problem. Again it wont cost a dime and will take only 1 minute. Remove that cap from the Vapor line. It is how your tank is going to vent. If you leave it connected your system can potentially "Vaccum lock" and not allow fuel to flow to the pump.

[doylerl]

Ok so I mistakenly thought that hose was one piece but it is 2 diff lines. I removed the plug on the canister line. I also blew out both lines with the air compressor. I then checked the fuel pressure and it is high but according to my haynes it is within limits. It read at 5psi after a few seconds of cranking. As far as the return line I'm sure it isn't clogged since I blew the lines out. However when I was trying to start it afterwards it would still only run if the pedal was being pumped. I was afraid it was flooding again so I pulled the plugs out to check. They were black but were not wet so it doesn't seem to be flooding out. I am still thinking timing problems but it seemed to be fine last time I checked. Is it possible that the timing could be jumping while cranking and somehow ending up back to normal afterwards? I figure that's a dumb question but I'm running out of ideas.

[nitrofarm]

Good Job Bro,now all you need to do is tune the Carb. Just give us a quick refresher. Is it the Weber for the SUZUKI SAMURAI ? Cuz that one is jetted extremely close to your needs.You shouldn't have to change any jetting.
I would say def NO to your timing question. If it starts easily its fine,it cant slip. And easy starting is a good sign the timing is close enough for now. And your fuel press sounds fine. There's no way to adjust it anyway.
Carbs are so simple but can be deceiving. You say you have to "Pump it" to keep the engine going. This could simply be that you idle speed is to low & the engine cant physically make enough vacuum to draw fuel from the venturis. Or the float bowl level is to low causing the engine to starve for fuel at idle.Both of these maladjustments will cause your symptom. The first thing you should check is float bowl level. Once that is set,set the idle speed. Get it to idle smooth at a reasonable speed ( you prolly don't have a tach) so just use common sense. I'm not even going to put RPM's here cuz I don't want to overwhelm you with info. Just use your mellon Now you can set your timing. Do you have a timing light? (You have to get one) In order for me or you to do any serious cybershooting your gonna have to procure one. With efi the ECA adjust the timing so it can be more forgiving if its wrong. But with a carb & no ECA its all in the advance mechanism of the Distributor. So you need to have the Disty timed very close to 10 deg BTC.
1) Check/set float bowl level. With Automatic trans car must be in drive with wheels chalked & E Brake on. Stick car just needs to be running in neutral with E Brake on.
2) Set idle speed if necessary. Then recheck float level & tweak if needed.
3) Check/Set timing
4) Take it on a "Beat run" and see how it performs.

Things to pay attention to after you have performed the above.
Is it backfiring through Air Cleaner?
Is it pinging under heavy load?
Does it hesitate die when you give it throttle after a long idle?
Does it surge @ cruise rpm's?
I would highly recommend getting four new plugs for trouble shooting purpose's. I know you are tight for cash.But they will really help your cause. New plugs are nice cuz they reflect your most reason changes. And some times its hard to read a used plug.
Good luck and hope this helps. Have a blessed Easter !