Fuel leaking from new carb.

[nitrofarm]

I forgot you have a Weber not a Holley. Weber float level is bench set upside with a measuremant. But here is a way you can cheat if your handy and have a metric bleeder. I stole the following from another site:

you can hook a tube into your Weber's float bowl drain plug and then run the engine and not only can you set the float level, but you can see if the pumps can keep up.

construction of this devices seems complicated, but it is in fact amazingly easy. the weber float bowl drain is an 8x1.00 thread, which just so happens to be the same as the brake or clutch bleeder screw on every stock mazda rotary.

you then use the same clear tubing you'd use to bleed the brakes. the weber drain plug comes out, the bleeder screw goes in like its made for the job, and it will seal on the weber crush ring.

turn on the fuel pump(s) and look for leaks.

Mazda's spec for float level is 21-23mm down from the top of the throttle body/float chamber.

[brickdog2000]

So are we suppose to drain the float within limits using the drain tube? It sounds easy but I think I might be missing something.

[doylerl]

Ok, so I checked with my haynes, and it shows the timing marks in the book as follows:


Here is my cam:

And here is the crank:

It appears that the mark on the pulley is in the same position as the one on the gear in the haynes. However, it looks like there is a completely different mark on the timing cover, which it is WAY far from. So, I first thought my timing was correct, but when I looked again today, I saw that other timing mark (I'm assuming that's what it is anyway) and how far off it was. So, is the pulley's timing mark not the same as the timing gear? If it is different, my belt is off by about 5 teeth, which I would think would be way to far to have just slipped, but I'm not sure. Any help is appreciated.

[nitrofarm]

Doyler that is for setting the CAM timing (Mechanical). You need to check "Ignition" timing (when ignition tells spark to fire). That is done with a timing light whilst the engine iswarmed up and at very low idle. Those two marks are TDC & 10 deg BTC.
TDC = Top Dead Center of no. 1 piston. Meaning its all the way @ the top of its stroke. When you use the timing strobe you will be pointing it directly @ the lwr pulley. And with the 2 dist bolt jus loose enough to move the ditsty. You physically move the disty (eng still running) until the hash mark on pulley lines up with the 10 deg Mark. Read up on it in the Haynes book. Jus remember to tighten the 2 bolts down afterwards! ! ! I always check the timing once more after I tighten them. Cuz some times you move the disty by accident.
Note how I said it must be at low idle... If you try to set it with a high idle you can get some ill effects. Engine must be at very normal idle speed.
All you are doing is making sure that the ignition is firing the plug @ 10 deg BTC at idle.

[nitrofarm]

So are we suppose to drain the float within limits using the drain tube? It sounds easy but I think I might be missing something.

What they are doing is useing a clear tube to see the float level thats all. So no its not @ draining. The clear tube is pushed onto the bleeder with no cap on the top end. The clear tube is sticking straight up & down. The tube will "Mirror" what is in the float bowl. Get it? The two levels will equalize & then you can see what the level is. Holley carbs have a little plug on the side of the bowl that you actually remove. And the level is set when fuel just starts to dribble out. Just be REAL carefull that you dont have a leaking tube @ the bleeder. Have a Buddy hold it upright while you start the engine. Just to make sure it dont tip over & spill.
Just remember if its a new carb,chances are its spot on from the factory. But if its used.......its anybody guess.
On a side note,the plus side of tweakin the bowl level is engine responsiveness off idle. And a smooth idle. If level is to low it runs leaner at idle & doesnt respond as snappy as it should. If to high the car will run richer wasting fuel & loading up with fuel.

[doylerl]

Well the timing mark on the pulley is the same as the gear. Which means the mech timing is good. Next theory is since I had that hose capped off could it have built up some much presure in the tank to send more fuel into the carb than what was needed? If so then that would explain all the excess fuel in the intake and why the carb gasket started leaking in the first place. Thanks again everyone.