^^ Yup! I've done it that way before too! I've also stuck the screwdriver in the end of the wire and held it close to a grounded spot to look for the arc. Just make sure it doesn't jump from the screwdriver to your hand. Again, it'll bite ya! LOL :mrgreen: Insulation is the keyword here
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SOS 88 Festiva
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OR, if you want to get fancy....for 7 bucks you can do it the safe way by purchasing one of these at about any McParts store. It plugs in between the spark plug and wire. Then just look for the blinking red light while you spin the motor over Best 7 bucks I've ever spent. Keeps ya from getting bitten! :mrgreen:
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You really need to get a Haynes manual. It would be invaluable for doing your own repairs. It will have detailed instructions, pictures, a troubleshooting section, etc.. Should be able to find one at any Autozone, O'Reilly's, Pep Boys, etc., and they cost about $20.00. It will be the best money you'll ever spend. If you can't find one or can't afford one right now, let me know.....I may have an extra one I can send you.
At least you have another vehicle to drive. Rather ironic, but if gas gets much higher, I may be looking for a horse to ride. You may be ahead of all of us.Brian
93L - 5SP, FMS springs, 323 alloys, 1st gen B6, ported head & intake, FMS cam, ported exhaust manifold w/2-1/4" head pipe.
04 Mustang GT, 5SP, CAI, TFS plenum, 70mm TB, catted X, Pypes 304SS cat-back, Hurst Billet+ shifter, SCT/Bama tuned....4.10's & cams coming soon
62 Galaxie 2D sedan project- 428, 3x2V, 4SP, 3.89TLOC
1 wife, 2 kids, 9 dogs, 4 cats......
Not enough time or money for any of them
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Originally posted by luckycowgirl View Post
LOL, yes that's the one.Brian
93L - 5SP, FMS springs, 323 alloys, 1st gen B6, ported head & intake, FMS cam, ported exhaust manifold w/2-1/4" head pipe.
04 Mustang GT, 5SP, CAI, TFS plenum, 70mm TB, catted X, Pypes 304SS cat-back, Hurst Billet+ shifter, SCT/Bama tuned....4.10's & cams coming soon
62 Galaxie 2D sedan project- 428, 3x2V, 4SP, 3.89TLOC
1 wife, 2 kids, 9 dogs, 4 cats......
Not enough time or money for any of them
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Looking in the oil fill hole to see if the camshaft rotates? On my '89 all you'll see is the built in baffle in the valve cover. I'd take the top off the distributor and see if the rotor rotates. Since the '88 has a mechanical fuel pump driven off the camshaft you might also be able to look in the top of the carburettor for gasoline.Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.
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Its probably your ignition igniter in
your distributor . You can order it from
Rockauto Parts com.Part no. #7036 ( E8B212A297A)
cost is around 130.00 dollars. Its a common problem
with 88&89 festivas.1992 black GL
1991 white GL
1991 blue L parts car
1992 blue L from Japan R.H.D.
1948 ford conv. hot rod
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Luckycowgirl,
I think you first need to get a repair manual on your Festiva and do a little reading. You will learn the names and location of the various parts under the hood, and what they do.
That will help when people here give you suggestions.
I would not buy any expensive parts on the basis of long distance diagnosis. Electrical parts are not returnable to almost all parts houses.
You have a low mileage Festiva that can give you many years of service. I look at the odometer of any I see parked, about half have run between 250,000 to 300,000 miles.
After the book you will need a 1/4 inch and 3/8 inch drive metric socket set, a set of metric combination wrenches (box on one end, open on the other), a 4 way screw driver, and a pair of pliers.
I did an engine swap on my Festiva last summer using a set of Harbor Freight combination wrenches costing less than $10. They did fine. I also had a box full of miscellaneous brand sockets and nut drivers, ratcheting box wrenches, etc. The extras just make things more convenient. I am a tool junkie and have accumulated a bunch in 50 years.
Almost everything on the Festiva is small so doesn't require expensive strong wrenches.
I don't know how far you are from a town that would have a big box store.
Sears, Lowe's, Tractor Supply, Northern Tool, Home Depot, and Harbor Freight would all have adequate tools; as well as the farm stores and auto parts dealers.
I rebuilt the engine in my first ever car in 1961 with a set of Sears wrenches and a book. I had no mechanical experience, and had very little money, as I was going to college and had spent every penny I had getting the car.
The car was an MG - TD and got almost 90 miles from the used car dealer before developing a rod bearing knock.
PaulRed Rocket 1988 L, 133,XXX miles, 4 sp. AC, hit guard rail in snow, RIP, saved everything but body
Black Rocket 1988 L 207,XXX miles, 4 sp. AC, engine, trans, wire harness, radiator from RR
Red Rocket 2 1988 L 138,XXX miles, 4 sp
White Rocket 1989 L 128,XXX miles, 4 sp. AC
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Originally posted by luckycowgirl View Post
were you able to test the coil for power and continuity? do you have fuel to the carb? did you check the timing belt for missing or skiped teeth?Trees aren't kind to me...
currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.
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so far...
it's getting spark and fuel.. checked the timing belt and alignment.. they are ok.. lol.. after pulling apart i found a receipt and the timing belt was changed in 1998.
so trying to put the cover back, the cover has a crack and the gasket is stretched out and won't go back on. i called around to get a new gasket and was told they don't make em any more.. the parts store guy suggested rvt silicone based gasket maker. does anyone know if that works ok?
distributor next?
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If you use the silicon, be sure to clean the cover well.
Ok, I just read over the thread at a glance. You said all you get is a grinding noise? Does the engine turn over? As in does it make the sound it usualy made just before it would start? *rum*rum*rum*. If not, and all it does is grind, you may have a starter issue. Not a huge problem. First I would get a heavy rod, like a jack handle or pipe, and gently tap the starter before you start it. You can see the starter just to the right of the side of the motor on top of the trans under the batt. If that has no effect, you want to think about pulling the starter and inspecting the teeth on the starter and on the flywheel (you can see the flywheel inside the hole the starter was in. If either has broken teeth, or looks more REALLY worn out, you should replace the part. You shouls take the starter to a good parts store regardless to be tested. Hope this helps. VIVA LA FESTIVAS!Last edited by KingFish; 04-17-2011, 02:28 PM.Going old school...
89L Carby FIDO, previously owned by FestivaFred
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Yes, RTV is fine on the timing cover. There is no oil or anything it's sealing, just a safty cover & to keep dirt & objects (like fingers & rocks) out of the timing belt. A lot of people just leave them off.
KingFish brought up a good point. It may be just a stuck starter or something. Do you have any way of posting a video?Brian
93L - 5SP, FMS springs, 323 alloys, 1st gen B6, ported head & intake, FMS cam, ported exhaust manifold w/2-1/4" head pipe.
04 Mustang GT, 5SP, CAI, TFS plenum, 70mm TB, catted X, Pypes 304SS cat-back, Hurst Billet+ shifter, SCT/Bama tuned....4.10's & cams coming soon
62 Galaxie 2D sedan project- 428, 3x2V, 4SP, 3.89TLOC
1 wife, 2 kids, 9 dogs, 4 cats......
Not enough time or money for any of them
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