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SOS 88 Festiva

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  • #61
    i mean ZERO to 2 psi. in all four cylinders.

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    • #62
      not to pry, but how exactly are you testing for compression? and did you verify those numbers by then testing the cylinders with a little oin placed in them?
      Trees aren't kind to me...

      currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
      94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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      • #63
        a little oin?

        we used one of these.

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        • #64
          Originally posted by luckycowgirl View Post
          a little oin?

          we used one of these.
          he meant oil.....and did you have it hooked up to the car or just laying on the fender?







          Just kidding. Sounds like you did something wrong because that is the lowest compression I have ever seen across the board like that. Please try it again....hold the end tight to the spark plug hole or if it screws in make sure it is tight and crank it 5 to 10 times....but the same on each cylinder. Then let us know.
          "FLTG4LIFE" @FINALLEVEL , "PBH"
          89L Silver EFI auto
          91GL Green Auto DD
          There ain't no rest for the wicked
          until we close our eyes for good.
          I will sleep when I die!
          I'm a little hunk of tin, nobody knows what shape I'm in. I've got four wheels and a running board, I'm not a Chevy, I'M A FORD!

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          • #65



            lol. i am pretty sure we did it right. my friend's husband is helping me, we put oil on the o rings.. he didn't believe the reading was correct either so he was going to check a different vehicle when he got home.

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            • #66
              If you're absolutely sure the compression gauge is working and you attached it correctly, the only possible thing it could be when it is all cylinders reading "0" is the valve timing. That means removing the plastic cover from the front of the engine (again) if you replaced it. It's not just a matter of the belt being in position. The camshaft sprocket that the belt runs on must be turned so that the 2 marks (lines that may look like deep scratches) on the front of the sprocket line up with 2 little tabs on the head. One is at 12 o'clock and the other at 3 o'clock. Make sure both marks on the camshaft sprocket line up with both marks on the head. Take a light and try to look at the sprocket on the crankshaft at the bottom of the engine. There is a small notch in the back edge of the bottom sprocket that should be in the 12 o'clock position and lined up with a small pointer that sticks out a little from the edge of the engine. If all these marks are not lined up, you're valve timing is off and the cause needs to be found before adjusting it. The most likely cause is a bad belt (possibly missing teeth). Next would be a broken belt tensioner bolt or the belt tensioner itself way out of adjustment. The belt tensioner is a small flat pulley that rubs against the outside of the timing belt about halfway between the top and bottom sprockets. Another possibility is the bolt that holds the camshaft sprocket may be loose and allow the camshaft sprocket to move out away from a tiny little pin that sticks out right next to the bolt that holds the camshaft sprocket in the correct position.
              You gonna race that thing?
              http://www.sdfcomputers.com/Festivaracing.htm

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              • #67
                I agree with Festy 46, valve timing is off. Even if the head gasket is blown, you should still get a couple psi.

                Without the valve timing correct, the compression is just going out the exhaust or intake manifolds.

                I hope after you re-realign the timing belt, this all blows over!
                -Zack
                Blue '93 GL Auto: White 13" 5 Point Wheels, Full LED Conversion, and an 8" Sub

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                • #68
                  thanks!

                  will update shortly

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                  • #69


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                    • #70
                      Originally posted by luckycowgirl View Post


                      this pin is sheared. can't figure out how to get it out.. any ideas?

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                      • #71
                        Lube it with WD-40 and pull with small needlenose pliers?
                        1990 White L-Plus 5-speed rust-machine
                        Scrapped

                        1991 Blue L 5-speed
                        daily driver, intermittent project

                        1993 rustless wonder
                        A shell, awaiting suspension, brakes, and B6T

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                        • #72
                          You'll have to take the sprocket off. The piece of the pin that is still in the camshaft may have enough sticking out to clamp a Vice-Grip to and pull it out. If not you may have to drill & tap it to extract it. Someone here may have an old cam you could pull the pin out of, or maybe just swap the whole cam. At least you found the issue and it's a cheap fix!
                          Brian

                          93L - 5SP, FMS springs, 323 alloys, 1st gen B6, ported head & intake, FMS cam, ported exhaust manifold w/2-1/4" head pipe.
                          04 Mustang GT, 5SP, CAI, TFS plenum, 70mm TB, catted X, Pypes 304SS cat-back, Hurst Billet+ shifter, SCT/Bama tuned....4.10's & cams coming soon
                          62 Galaxie 2D sedan project- 428, 3x2V, 4SP, 3.89TLOC

                          1 wife, 2 kids, 9 dogs, 4 cats......
                          Not enough time or money for any of them

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                          • #73
                            there wasn't anything to pull...

                            there is some wear on the cam so i'm looking to replace it. i called the only parts store that was open and was told it's discontinued. hopefully i'll be able to find one.




                            if anyone has a pin or a cam they'd sell i'd be most appreciative.
                            Last edited by luckycowgirl; 06-05-2011, 07:30 PM.

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                            • #74
                              Look on RockAuto's website. They sell every part for rebuilding the B3.
                              1990 White L-Plus 5-speed rust-machine
                              Scrapped

                              1991 Blue L 5-speed
                              daily driver, intermittent project

                              1993 rustless wonder
                              A shell, awaiting suspension, brakes, and B6T

                              Comment


                              • #75
                                .... When this happened to me, the "dimple" or pin did NOT shear. But, It did cut a groove in the back side of the sprocket and deformed it badly which I replaced. My replacement came from the FORD dealer at that time many many years ago.
                                .


                                Originally posted by luckycowgirl View Post


                                A hunch is creativity trying to tell you something.

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