Dead battery

[festfull]

Ok. As the title says I'm getting a dead battery. The car is a 91 auto gl.
I have had it a year and that's how old the battery is. I just had the AC charged and soon after that my battery has been going dead.

I though it was the cigaret lighter or maybe the CD player because it looked like they pulled that out when working on the AC. Maybe they pulled something loose? I also had to replace the aftermarket radiator fan. The motor was fried.

Anybody have any ideas? I need a new direction the look.

Thanks

[Pu241]

First thing to do before spending a lot of time hunting down an electrical problem, which may not exist, is make sure the battery itself is good. I had one go bad on me after 3 days, so just want to make sure the battery and charging system are functioning. Once verified we can proceed. Most McParts places will test these for you free of charge!

[kellcomnet]

alternator not putting out enough juice to charge it?

[Christ]

Charge it up, turn everything off, and check for a draw by putting a multi across the terminals of the battery, or using a test light between the ground wire and the battery negative post. The multi well give a more insightful clue, the light will just tell you if there's a complete circuit operating.

Make sure you remove fuses for things like the ECM, hood light, radio memory, clock, etc., for obvious reasons.

[festfull]

Thanks for the ideas.

After driving around a for say 30min it will have enough charge to start for about 12 hours. After that point it needs to be jumped.

I'll charge it up good tonight and test the battery in the morning. The battery is still under warranty so if it's bad I'll replace it.

[crazyrog17]

Does the alternator 'keep up' when you've got all the accessories on or do they begin to slow/dim?

Either they messed up some circuits and they're drawing power when the key is out or your alternator is just so happening to fail after they worked on it.

It could also be the belt tension... Squeaky on start up or high alternator load? Tighten the belt until it has about a 1/4" of play when you press on the span of it.

[festfull]

Alternator seems fine. I'll get it checked out though.

Belt could be loose I know they were messing with it to get AC working.

[wybnrml]

Are your battery terminals clean and tight? It doesn't hurt to take them off and clean them and retighten them even if they look fine. Is your charge light coming on while you're driving? I would check your middle fusible link. It is located on the driver side strut tower. It has three wires linking the fuse box, check for a loose connection or corrosion.

[festfull]

Are your battery terminals clean and tight? It doesn't hurt to take them off and clean them and retighten them even if they look fine. Is your charge light coming on while you're driving? I would check your middle fusible link. It is located on the driver side strut tower. It has three wires linking the fuse box, check for a loose connection or corrosion.

Thanks.

Battery terminals are great clean and tight.

The fusible link still has the original wires. I'll check them later.

I really haven't had a problem one with this car.

A little more info that might help I did notice my turn signal was acting up. Like I had a bulb out. But it fine now. Also my turn signal doesn't work if it raining. Water shorting something out.

Help has been great

[crazyrog17]

The fusible link still has the original wires. I'll check them later.

Get some long legged cartridge fuses. Free at the junkyards, a couple bucks at walmart/mcparts.

A little more info that might help I did notice my turn signal was acting up. Like I had a bulb out. But it fine now. Also my turn signal doesn't work if it raining. Water shorting something out.

That just makes it more puzzling, haha.

[festfull]

[QUOTE=crazyrog17;417795]Get some long legged cartridge fuses. Free at the junkyards, a couple bucks at walmart/mcparts.[QUOTE]

Why do I need the fuses?

Yes, it seems to get more confusing as I add info. I tend to think its a new problem the things that have been messed up aren't any better but my be stopping my from finding this problem.

Thanks

[crazyrog17]

The only reason the Festivas have 'fusible links' (those stupid wires that get corroded and just cause trouble anyways) is because Kia (the manufacturer of our Festivas) saved $2-$3 on each car by using them instead.

The cartridge fuses are a perfect fit because Mazda designed the main fuse block that way. Kia cheaped out and now we suffer a bit from the corrosion, headaches and confusion when it comes to replacing them.

[festfull]

Ok, thanks for the info.

I plan on picking some up after work tonight. What size do I need?

[festfull]

Ok a little update.

With the fuses in the draw across the battery is 12.8 volts. With the fuses out it's the same draw of 12.8 volts. Also tested motor off headlights on 12.3 volts.

So I started the car and turned the headlights on. At first the alternator was at 12.7 but after a few mins it had work it's way up to 13.2. I believe that is still low right? I'm going to try to get the alternator pulled and tested along with the battery, maybe on Thursday.

Fusible link- looked good All the wires were tight. Do you have a pic of the fuses you said could replace the wires.

Thanks, Any other ideas?

[crazyrog17]

Please excuse the dirty engine compartment...

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