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Quick ATX to MTX question

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  • #16
    One Sunday AM at the local beach meet, a guy out here on Long island swapped a vet engine in an RX-8 body. No Neutral Saftey Switch. He was showing off and hit the remote start. It took off. He ran after it and was able to get in, but it hit 2 bikes and side swipped a newer GT500 before landing in the bay. He swam to safety luckily..
    91 Festiva, BP, auto
    69 Mercury Cyclone CJ, 428 SCJ, 4 spd

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    • #17
      My 91 was atx and is now bpt/g-trans and I don't use a clutch switch. Starting your car in gear is fun.

      Mtx has a clutch switch, atx has neutral safety switch. Both have thick blk/red blk/blu wires running to them. You could either jump these wires together (what I did) and have no clutch switch- or- run wires from what used to be the neutral switch to you clutch switch that closes with clutch depression. (These 2 wires are the thick ones in the 2-wire plug on the atx harness you pictured above.)

      Your last post with the circled switch: that is the clutch engage switch. The atx cars have a blk/blu wire coming from the neutral safety switch going to the ecu at pin 1V. Mtx cars have a blu/wht wire going from that clutch engage switch to pin 1V at the ecu. (1V=pin 22 in plug #1) The neutral gear switch on the mtx has a blu/wht wire that ties into the blu/wht wire running from the clutch engage switch to the ecu.


      Edit: I typed this after just reading the first page. I see you did a harness swap.
      Last edited by resuwrecked; 05-18-2011, 06:02 PM.

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      • #18
        What is the actual function of the other switch? (At the top of pedal travel.)

        I currently have it disconnected, but grounding the wires, attaching them to each other, our leaving then open seems to have no change effect on the drivability of my 93...

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        • #19
          Leave it off. Just get into the habit of leaving the car in neutral and pushing in the clutch when starting the car. I have always disconnected my neutral switches. It is easier to turn the key and move the car with the starter. I once ran out of gas and used the starter to get me to a gas station 5 klms away. That little starter on the Festivas is the strongest I've ever seen.
          Last edited by Bdubya; 11-19-2011, 09:47 AM. Reason: Imperial/metric conversion

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          • #20
            I'm not talking about the one that stops you from starting the car, I mean the smaller switch thats being actuated within the first inch of pedal travel.

            It's circled in the last pic on the previous page.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by Bdubya View Post
              Leave it off. Just get into the habit of leaving the car in neutral and pushing in the clutch when starting the car. I have always disconnected my neutral switches. It is easier to turn the key and move the car with the starter. I once ran out of gas and used the starter to get me to a gas station 5 klms away. That little starter on the Festivas is the strongest I've ever seen.
              No offense but this isnt good advice. If you want to run your car that way fine.But to encourage someone else to bybass a MAJOR saftey circuit is not wise my friend.Fix it right & be safe. And no I'm not a Safety NAZI.But I did grow up in a very busy service station in the Chicago Suburbs.And saw/heard the results of some very unsafe shadetree's. All it takes is one person to "Borrow" his car. Or worse yet,a kid gets in it and turns the key.And the unthinkable can happen.
              Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
              Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
              Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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              • #22
                No offense taken. I understand that a lot of people need these safety switches to survive in todays world. It is amazing that humanity survived the last 110 years with no clutch/safety switches. My bad for learning how to safely operate a vehicle back in the day when clutch/safety switches did not even exist. You are correct nitrofarm, this forum should really be reserved for 100% OEM, original safety specs.

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