Typically, the check engine light is related to the emissions of the car. You could have a bad converter, a bad O2 sensor, or a fuel mixture problem that causes the emissions to go out of range. I don't think these cars are OBD2 compatable (only been an owner a week and a half myself) so I don't know if you can go to AutoZone and get the codes read, but it sounds like it only does it under a load. Hopefully someone more versed will chime in.
1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
1965 Mustang Coupe - A-code car, restoring for/with my son
1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
2005 Accord - wife's DD
2008 Mountaineer - step daughter's DD
2015 F150 SCrew - DD
OBD2 started in 1996, halfway thru the Aspire generation.
If you get the O2 sensor, make sure it's the Denso unit. There are two, but they are identical except that one needs to be spliced in with the existing wiring; that one is much cheaper, about $20.
90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!
You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand Disaster preparedness
Car is OBD-I only, there is a thread on reading the check engine light codes, but the fact that it comes on then goes off on it's own is perplexing
This happens all the time.
Sometimes it takes specific conditions to trip the light, if the conditions are correct it will go out. Intermittent sensor failure, failure only when warm or cold etc...
Comment