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  • #16
    Originally posted by Flyin4stroke View Post
    You have more balls than me sir! Lol
    Kinda got used to it. working on 4-wheelers, dirtbikes, cars pretty much anything that has a engine but is missing spark. i have been hit with house power a few times to. Trying to pull yourself away from something that has ahold of you like electricity is a weird feeling.
    89L build thread http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=36422

    1996 subaru impreza AWD 5 speed, EJ18

    Post your festiva pics and vids here: www.movingviolationz.com
    My site: 20tessa.sytes.net

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    • #17
      Head Light having problems is typically related to fuseable link connection corrosion (EGI, MAIN, HEAD)

      Are you positive that you did not reverse polarity when you did the charge or a jump?
      This can cause all kinds of problems. Your did verify the EGI fuseable link is OK not corroded or have you replaced with a fuse?

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      • #18
        i cleaned all of them i hope good it still turns over ive heard about all the problems with those links but i think i cleaned it good

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        • #19
          ok heres another thing for ya i took a test light and turned the key on the little box in the fender wall that has the links i tested them all i the middle one turned the light on but the rest didnt what do u think

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          • #20
            Checking all the possibilities...
            (Make sure your battery still has a charge first.)
            Have you tried taking a test light and hooking the test light lead to the negative cable at the battery and then touch the prob to the engine? If the light comes on, would this not indicate that the engine is not grounded? I'm no expert, I seem to recall my brother used to do this when he had no spark at the plug (he used to build hobby racers). If it is not grounded (has a positive charge) you could not possibly get a spark at the plugs.
            Others on here probably know a lot more about how to check this and find the problem than I do. Just putting out more feelers.
            Last edited by 1990new; 06-06-2011, 01:38 PM. Reason: grammar

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            • #21
              The engine should be grounded because it is mounted to the chassis but there is also a ground wire on the passengers side of the engine bay that runs from the engine to the strut tower. Is there a ground there? I would probably label all connectors and unplug the entire harness and plug everything back in after going through and making sure all connectors are clean and make sure the grounds are clean and grounded properly.

              This is just what I would do but since you have nobody really there to help this would be something to take on yourself. I'm not saying you should do it but I would just to make sure there isn't any hots being grounded or vise versa. If the car ran and slowly developed this problem then either something isn't grounded properly or something went bad on the ignition side of this. Have you swapped in another computer?
              89L build thread http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=36422

              1996 subaru impreza AWD 5 speed, EJ18

              Post your festiva pics and vids here: www.movingviolationz.com
              My site: 20tessa.sytes.net

              Comment


              • #22
                the engine is grounded if i hook the test light to the pos cable and touch the block it lights up so i know its grounded

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                • #23
                  im still stumped done everything i can think of and still nothing im so lost right now

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                  • #24
                    I would get a cartridge fuse and remove the clear plastic. Take a fusible link off and put in the cartridge. Take your test light and hook it to the negative side of the battery. Take the probe and touch both male spade plugs. Do not touch the metal inside the cartridge itself. The reason I would do it this way is because once I had an alternator go out on my b6. ....in fact it was during the trip back from California when I purchased it from rolla. I was in a hurry, didn't pull the negative cable and shorted something and blew the link. Put in a cartridge fuse which Rolla had given me. Went to start.....nothing. I removed the clear plastic and probed. Power. But no start. Scratched my head a few times and went about testing like I told you above. Power at front spade but no power at back spade. I have found that sometimes the cartridge fuses don't fit tightly on the spades. So a small screwdriver push down the back side of the female end in the fuse and a little twist puts a v-bend in the female side allowing better contact. Just my take on what to do first. Oh yea, then check the other two.
                    ENFORCER - Midwest Festiva Inc., Iowa

                    #1 '90 Sport to modified Lx - RollazX
                    #2 .....Cheesehead
                    #3 '91 White - Donor Car
                    #4 .....Montana Project
                    SOLD----Levistiva for $1500
                    Bought her back for $450
                    Now that's darn near priceless!!

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                    • #25
                      Still trying to think of things...remembered having a similar problem and in the
                      end it ended up being a bad coil wire. Can I assume that you did try a new coil wire?
                      Last edited by 1990new; 06-06-2011, 03:59 PM. Reason: spelling

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                      • #26
                        i think i did lol i may try that and see what happens but what i did just do was took the little brown box apart and cleaned all the ends up and still nothing

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                        • #27
                          changed wire and still nothing

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                          • #28
                            Ignition module? lol

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by JoDan View Post
                              Ignition module? lol
                              Regarding ignition module....if bad would definitely cause a no start.
                              I remember when one was going bad on my 1994 Ford Taurus when the
                              weather was cold the engine would not start. You could hold your finger on the module for a few minutes to warm it up and the engine would start and keep on running.
                              I remember that the cost of the little square inch piece of plastic chip was $65 back in 2004.

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                              • #30
                                ours is close to 100 at advance auto parts i got a icm at the yard when i found 2 festivas no 323 at all forgot focus lol but i put that one one and still nothing could i have that much bad luck and have 2 that are crap lol i dont have that kind of money to go buy parts lol

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