Replaced timing belt and water pump, car starts and dies....

[Larry Hampton]

1st thing that I think MAY be wrong. When I was removing the air box, I couldn't figure out how to unplug it. I took the two screws out and started to pull, that doesn't look right, so I put it back in. Finally figured out the spring clip.

Now, with the filter box totally buttoned up with the filter in it, if I spary carb cleaner into the opening inside the fender, it purrs like a kitten.

I pulled the fuel line of the intake, cranked and fuel came out, dunno the pressure but it's really varnished (car has sat since '08 as near as I can tell).

I've checked for loose connectors, disconnected vacuum lines, can't find anything wrong.

The reason I replaced the timing belt was because I thought it had slipped a tooth and I didn't know it's age. Water pump, because it was there.

I know it's timed right, the marks all line up and like I said, it purrs.

[Pu241]

Yeah will start right up and run for between 2-3 sec then shut down!

You screwed up the VAF connection, I know because I did the same thing long ago.

Three things I can suggest:

1) Jumper the fuel pump, as you may have just broke/disconnected the microswitch to the fuel pump in the VAF. This is temporary for diagnoses only.
2) Replace the VAF with a known good unit.
3) Re-solder the broke connections internal to the VAF, which you broke when you pulled the connector out, this what I did on Big Blue so many years ago.

[Larry Hampton]

Is the resoldering temporary or a permanent fix?

[FestYboy]

perminent. OR you could use a stick, LOL, like me. search the ohio pix thread and you'll see it.

[Larry Hampton]

So I've pulled off the aluminum top. The bottom has a bunch of tiny screws, 9 around the perimeter and three lined up down one side. Do I just pull the perimeter screws? And they look to have some sort of maybe epoxy around them? Are they hard to get out?

[FestYboy]

no, i think you're after what's under the black plastic top that's sealed with urathane.

[Larry Hampton]

Well how do I get to that? It's not accessible thru the little slot where the plug is, is it?

[Pu241]

Well how do I get to that? It's not accessible thru the little slot where the plug is, is it?

Nope, got to cut/remove the seal material between the black plastic cover and the aluminum housing.
Carefully

Once that is removed you'll be able to see the damage and repair it.
Have you soldered anything before?

[Larry Hampton]

Yeah, but I have a professional going to do my soldering for me, an electrical engineer.

[Pu241]

OK, well you maybe lucky and the damage to your connections might be less than mine.
I had to solder all of my connections.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out!

[Larry Hampton]

Okay, it looks like all 3 connections need to be soldered. And I'm guessing that the long thin brass tab need to go on the left side of the rod that's attached to the plastic thing that's attached to the door inside the housing. That way when the door moves, the contact at the base of the brass tab is closed.

[Larry Hampton]

And I'm not sure this will fix it, I had a problem before I took anything apart.

http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36011

I'm going to go back and inspect all the tube in a minute, gotta eat lunch first.

[Pu241]

It pobably will not fix that issue.
All we're trying to do now is fix the damage done to the VAF.

The other issue could just be crappy gasoline.
A shot of HEET (yellow container) or Seafoam per lable directions and if it is bad gas that should help clear it up.

[Larry Hampton]

Okay, without the VAF on the car, it will start and purr like a kitten. If you sloooooooowwwwwly give it gas, it'll rev up. If you blip the throttle, it'll die.

Oh, and the check engine light comes on after a couple seconds of startup, is this due to the VAF not being connected?

The gas does smell varnishy. There is a bolt head on the bottom of the tank, I'm assuming this is the drain plug? It's got a half a tank of gas according to the gauge.

I could top the tank off, throw some Seafoam in with it, or drain the tank, THEN Seafoam and new gas.

BTW, the car had it's oil changed in April of '08 at 138,640 by a quick lube place. Next suggested change was at 142,640 and it has 142,320 on it now.

New tires on Jan. 16, 2008 at 132,686 miles at $35 each!! Total with lifetime valvestem, parts and labor, $221.13 ($61.96!!! $10.99 per tire on lifetime balance labor!!)

[Pu241]

Ok, so now we are geting the full story.

How old is the gas in this tank?