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Disposable rear bearings?

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  • #46
    I doused everything in brake cleaner when I removed the old hardware. The adjuster adjusts, just seems to adjust too far. Im pretty sure the sprins are in the right places- put them back as they were and it looks like the book.
    ~Austin
    Red 88 L (Ocho)

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    • #47
      .... I've always had it in the back of my mind it would be nice if there were Zircon fittings or a small capped hole where you could just give a shot of grease or two, three times a year or so. That way once you set the bearings theatrically you would never have to touch the hub or bearings again unless you had a defect or just wear something out. Something like the antique drip oilers like they used to use in the early 1900's.
      .

      Originally posted by Safety Guy View Post
      I've come to the conclusion that filling the dust caps with grease is just something people must do to feel better, at least on Festivas. I don't think it matters, and I doubt all the grease in a dust cap will somehow transfer itself to a dehydrated set of bearings. As long as you pack the inner and outer bearings well with plenty of grease, pack the bearing race aress with grease, and coat the spindle with some grease, you should be fine.

      If someone knows why I'm wrong, post away!

      Karl
      A hunch is creativity trying to tell you something.

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      • #48
        Originally posted by Safety Guy View Post
        I've come to the conclusion that filling the dust caps with grease is just something people must do to feel better, at least on Festivas. I don't think it matters, and I doubt all the grease in a dust cap will somehow transfer itself to a dehydrated set of bearings. As long as you pack the inner and outer bearings well with plenty of grease, pack the bearing race aress with grease, and coat the spindle with some grease, you should be fine.

        If someone knows why I'm wrong, post away!

        Karl
        A properly greased bearing cartridge will exchange grease in a (mostly) sealed environment. As the grease in the cartridge warms, it expands, having a hydraulic effect on the cooler grease, allowing it to circulate into the bearing as the warm grease circulates out.

        They don't ned to be packed full, but a teaspoon in the cap or a glob on the washer/nut is a good thing.

        Put the wheel on with the grease cap off, spin the wheel firmly by hand, and tighten the bearing til it stops spinning, then back it off 1/8 turn or so, until the wheel spins freely again.

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        • #49
          Originally posted by boydg1 View Post
          .... I've always had it in the back of my mind it would be nice if there were Zircon fittings or a small capped hole where you could just give a shot of grease or two, three times a year or so. That way once you set the bearings theatrically you would never have to touch the hub or bearings again unless you had a defect or just wear something out. Something like the antique drip oilers like they used to use in the early 1900's.
          .
          Drill a hole in the grease cap and put a zerk in it.

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          • #50
            .... Ok that takes care of the rear bearing. What about the front inner bearing?
            .


            Originally posted by Christ View Post
            Drill a hole in the grease cap and put a zerk in it.
            A hunch is creativity trying to tell you something.

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            • #51
              .... I subscribe hole heatedly to what you say BUT I have remove the grease cup off the rear wheel and found that the Mobil 1 grease I packed the wheel bearing with was like wax-plaster around the end of the spindle, the Nut and washer, and the cotter pin. It wasn't until I took my finger and rubbed it in to the bearing that it got fresher grease. see pic. You can see the leftover crusty edge around the outer circumference.


              .

              .

              Originally posted by Christ View Post
              A properly greased bearing cartridge will exchange grease in a (mostly) sealed environment. As the grease in the cartridge warms, it expands, having a hydraulic effect on the cooler grease, allowing it to circulate into the bearing as the warm grease circulates out.

              They don't ned to be packed full, but a teaspoon in the cap or a glob on the washer/nut is a good thing.

              Put the wheel on with the grease cap off, spin the wheel firmly by hand, and tighten the bearing til it stops spinning, then back it off 1/8 turn or so, until the wheel spins freely again.
              A hunch is creativity trying to tell you something.

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              • #52
                Excellent advice guys. I'll see what I can do!!
                Buck.
                -1993 Ford Festiva GL, ~200k, B6, Aspire rear, Rio front, 5-speed. '87 Prelude alloys. Happy to be back on the route!!!
                -1999 Toyota Sienna XLE, 346,000
                -1996 Chevrolet K1500 Z71, 350 V8, 198k, hauler

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                • #53
                  Originally posted by boydg1 View Post
                  .... Ok that takes care of the rear bearing. What about the front inner bearing?
                  .
                  Grease needle?

                  Never worried myself about them, cuz they generally last longer than I have a car, even when I get the car as an abuse victim with 6155695552141#4566451122144$$459006 miles.

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                  • #54
                    .... I could only wish!

                    Originally posted by Christ View Post
                    Grease needle?

                    Never worried myself about them, cuz they generally last longer than I have a car, even when I get the car as an abuse victim with 6155695552141#4566451122144$$459006 miles.
                    A hunch is creativity trying to tell you something.

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