Loose radiator

['Noker]

Hello!
New member - proud owner of an 89 LX, automatic with AC (thanks to my friend Nearderpaul!) It came with a crack in the plastic part of the radiator, just below the cap (pictures below if you're interested). As I was taking off the top brackets, I notice the rubber gaskets that hold the vertical posts on top of the radiator were worn and dry - I can move the radiator back and forth by hand, there's about a half inch of play. I wondered if the radiator vibrating back and forth might have caused the crack? When I replaced the brackets, I slid a rubber washer into each gasket to firm things up - then I started to second guess myself - is the radiator supposed to be loose to reduce vibration? Should I keep the washers in or take them out? I haven't started the car yet, waiting for the JB Weld to cure.



For anyone interested here is the crack - you can see the moisture line in the sanded area.



Here's my first radiator patch job - its not pretty - the JB Weld was hard to use on a near-vertical space with little clearance to work with.


I guess I'll find out tomorrow if its going to hold or I need to order a new radiator.

[89newb]

id say order a new one or make it a perfect reason by stretching the entire truth to the mrs. to do a motor swap

[WmWatt]

first photo shows battery post needs cleaning.

['Noker]

oops, meant to crop that out...
It's on the list, along with new wheels, tires, spare, tail-light gaskets, a tuneup (and probably a new radiator).

[kartracer46]

You'll be surprised, it's a 13lb system. I have repaired several and had success. But I would go ahead and find another replacement if you plan to distance drive with it. Around town and short trips it will do nicely.

Congrats on the car!

[Pu241]

2x Kartracer on the finding a replacement (new or used).
That crack is likely to propagate left and right of it current position.
Ultimately moving out side your repair area.
Could be quit a while or a few days.

[Aaronbrook37]

I live according to the tenets of The Floydian Complex - never replace a part when an upgrade is readily available. On Ebay, Amazon, and Honda-Tech, you'll find thick, beefy, and aluminum Civic radiator packages with big fans for $80 shipped or less. That would be my recommendation if you decide to replace it in the immediate future.

[Christ]

File down the jb, drill holes at the ends of the crack, then coat it again. The holes terminate the crack.

Plastic welding is also an option. When new, the radiator didn't move around, and new rubber mounts wouldn't allow liberal movement.

['Noker]

Thanks for the advice! It's just going to be an "around town" ride, so I'm hoping the patch will hold while I invest in some new tires, etc. I'll replace it eventually - will definitely check out the civic radiators.

[getnpsi]

I read that the plastic used on radiators is also the same plastic as zip ties. I was able to "stick weld" the radiator on my camry with a soldering iron with a fat tip like that. It was actually kinda fun to do and it held until i sold it.

[getnpsi]

There is a lot of space up front on festivas. You can implement any number of wrong make and models and make them fit pretty easily once you do decide to replace your rad.

[bravekozak]

Make Tanja an offer.

Here's another one for one Euro.

['Noker]

I'll definitely tuck that idea away for later. I topped off the radiator and ran it around the block a few times - no leak so far.
Unfortunately while cleaning up I picked up a wire coming from the distributor area and it broke off in my hand - insulation was brittle and cracked. Temporary fix with electrical tape but I need to figure out what it is and replace it before it breaks again - If I had a dollar for every time I broke something while trying to fix something else - I could probably afford that new radiator...

[Pu241]

File down the jb, drill holes at the ends of the crack, then coat it again. The holes terminate the crack.

Plastic welding is also an option. When new, the radiator didn't move around, and new rubber mounts wouldn't allow liberal movement.

Christ is correct, I should have mentioned that as well.
Holes do not have to be large, just larger than the propogating crack.
You can even drill them ever so slightly ahead of the crack.

[Pu241]

I read that the plastic used on radiators is also the same plastic as zip ties. I was able to "stick weld" the radiator on my camry with a soldering iron with a fat tip like that. It was actually kinda fun to do and it held until i sold it.

The radiator is a glass filled/reinforced nylon and the base resin is likely a different chemical structure from that of zip ties. But that said, the nylons (there are a number of different nylons) should be interchangeable with regards to compatibility. Meaning even though a zip tie might be nylon 12,12 (I don't know this for a fact) and the radiator might be nylon 6,6 (again, I do not know this to be true) they should be able to "stick" and melt into each other without issue. Making plastic welding a reliable option should the JB weld fail.