tools I used to remove front wheel

[WmWatt]

Ford Festiva front wheel tools
------------------------------

Tools I used to take the front wheels of my 1989 Ford Festiva and
put them back on.

Jack and 2 small stands

Socket wrenches
17mm - tie rod end (torque to 26-30 ft-lb)
- strut bolts (torque to 69-86 ft-lb)
14mm - lower control arm pinch bolt (torque to 32-40 ft-lb)
- lug bolts to remove tire (or lug wrench)
12mm - brake calliper bolts (torque to 26-30 ft-lb)
1 3/16" - axle nut (torque to 117-174 ft-lb) (see note 1)

Socket drivers
1/2" T-bar - good for breaking free old nuts and bolts
1/2" swivel ratchet - (optional) saves time
torque - for tightening nuts and bolts to spec (see note 2)
6" extension - for torquing pinch bolt
3' handle extension pipe - for extra leverage (see note 3)

Open end wrenches
17mm - to hold strut bolt while tightening
14mm - to hold pinch bolt while tightening

Crowbar - to wedge between lug bolts and keep wheel from turning
Pliers - to compress brake pad to remove calliper
- for cotter pin in tie rod end
Stiff wire - to hang brake calliper from coil spring
Drill and bit - to get rusted cotter pin out of tie rod end
2-prong puller - to separate tie rod end from steering knuckle
punch - to tap out pinch bolt and strut bolts first time
- to stake axle nut so it won't turn
dowel - to loosen axle so it can be pushed out of hub
cold chisel or large screw driver - to wedge open pinch bolt slot
hammer - to drive punch, dowel, and chisel
optional trouble light, carpet to sit on, container for parts

note 1 - for axle nut I used a 1-3/16" oil sending unit socket
because it fits and is cheaper than the axle nut sockets at the
parts store. Sorry, I don't know size of axle nut.

note 2 - I have an old fashioned 0-150 manual torque wrench, not
digital, which is large and cumbersome. It needs and extension to
torque the pinch bolt. It's too long to do the calliper bolts.

note 3 - My extension handle is cut from a discarded bicycle
frame, the top bar (cross bar) and head tube (where the fork
goes) which gives two angles

I took things off in the following order
- tire
- axle nut
- brake calliper
- tie rod end
- strut bolts
- pinch bolt
- axle and lower control arm together (wiggle to free)

- END -

[boydg1]

.... I don't see a Bearing Splitter Separator on your list for removing the inner bearing off the hub. Of course, you'll need a small press to coincide with it. see pic


.... Suggestion: If you smack the side of the KNUCKLE with a ball-pine hammer AFTER you take the tie rod nut off, normally the tie rod end just pops rate out of the knuckle. Some can be stubborn, requiring a brass drift OR a tie rod removal tool.

.... Sharing some thoughts to make your job a little easier and less complicated.:thumbup:
.

Ford Festiva front wheel tools
------------------------------

Tools I used to take the front wheels of my 1989 Ford Festiva and
put them back on.

Jack and 2 small stands

Socket wrenches
17mm - tie rod end (torque to 26-30 ft-lb)
- strut bolts (torque to 69-86 ft-lb)
14mm - lower control arm pinch bolt (torque to 32-40 ft-lb)
- lug bolts to remove tire (or lug wrench)
12mm - brake calliper bolts (torque to 26-30 ft-lb)
1 3/16" - axle nut (torque to 117-174 ft-lb) (see note 1)

Socket drivers
1/2" T-bar - good for breaking free old nuts and bolts
1/2" swivel ratchet - (optional) saves time
torque - for tightening nuts and bolts to spec (see note 2)
6" extension - for torquing pinch bolt
3' handle extension pipe - for extra leverage (see note 3)

Open end wrenches
17mm - to hold strut bolt while tightening
14mm - to hold pinch bolt while tightening

Crowbar - to wedge between lug bolts and keep wheel from turning
Pliers - to compress brake pad to remove calliper
- for cotter pin in tie rod end
Stiff wire - to hang brake calliper from coil spring
Drill and bit - to get rusted cotter pin out of tie rod end
2-prong puller - to separate tie rod end from steering knuckle
punch - to tap out pinch bolt and strut bolts first time
- to stake axle nut so it won't turn
dowel - to loosen axle so it can be pushed out of hub
cold chisel or large screw driver - to wedge open pinch bolt slot
hammer - to drive punch, dowel, and chisel
optional trouble light, carpet to sit on, container for parts

note 1 - for axle nut I used a 1-3/16" oil sending unit socket
because it fits and is cheaper than the axle nut sockets at the
parts store. Sorry, I don't know size of axle nut.

note 2 - I have an old fashioned 0-150 manual torque wrench, not
digital, which is large and cumbersome. It needs and extension to
torque the pinch bolt. It's too long to do the calliper bolts.

note 3 - My extension handle is cut from a discarded bicycle
frame, the top bar (cross bar) and head tube (where the fork
goes) which gives two angles

I took things off in the following order
- tire
- axle nut
- brake calliper
- tie rod end
- strut bolts
- pinch bolt
- axle and lower control arm together (wiggle to free)

- END -

[WmWatt]

Those tools are just for taking the wheel off the car and putting it back on.

To pull the steering knuckle and outer bearing off the hub I use a 6" 3-prong gear puller which I borrow from the atuo parts store, and turn a big socket upside down on the end of the hub.
To press the bearings onto the hub I use a spare axle and some rings cut from 1-3/4" plastic pipe.